I use ATMEGA 328P
I tried to click button reset on Arduino Uno but the L LED integrated on board is not off.
Which bootloader did you burn? The image in the screenshot in post #4 shows that you have selected the Nano (Old Bootloader). Did you indeed burn that bootloader?
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i'm another person, i'm not [rohanee] . Sorry I'm new here so i don't know rules of the forum.
My apologies. You have have now learned why you should start your own topic instead of hijacking other people's topics.
If you press and release the reset button the L-LED should flash a few times in quick succession. If it does not do that either the boot loader is missing or the 328P is damaged. It's normal that the L-LED stays on while the reset button is pressed.
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Hi,
I am having a similar problem.
I have 2 clone boards that have worked well for some time. One of the boards had been running a sketch for over a month without flaw. A few days ago I rearranged my work desk and disconnected the board from power. The next day when I reconnected power (the power source that was previously connected) the sketch would not run. When I connected the board to my PC it was not detected. The power LED lit up, yet the “L” LED did not at all. I tried pushing the reset button, no “L” LED at all. I connected it with another USB cable, no help. Then I connected my other clone board and all went as expected, and that board is running the sketch without flaw.
I have done some research on this and found it could be the bootloader is corrupt or the MEGA328P chip is fried.
I have found this via AI on how to diagnose this
“To diagnose the bootloader on an Arduino UNO R3 or ATmega328P, first ensure that the correct board and processor settings are selected in the Arduino IDE. If you encounter issues, check the connections and consider using the "Arduino as ISP" method to re-burn the bootloader if necessary.”
When I open IDE 2.3.6 it shows the board as Arduino UNO and under Tools in the drop down the COM port shows COM3, yet the line Port “COM3” is greyed out and I am unable to select it or do anything with it. I did follow the above instructions, clicked on "Arduino as ISP" the selected “Burn Bootloader” Then I got an error message “ Error while burning the bootloader: Failed chip erase: uploading error: exit status 1”.
Does this indicate the MEGA328P is toast?
Not sure what happened other than possibly static got it…
I am reading that an Arduino can act as an ISP. I have the 2 clone boards, I genuine UNO, 1 Pro Mini in use (3 more unused) and 2 Metro Mini boards (unused).
Would a Metro or Pro mini work as ISP for this?
Would have no qualms with setting one up for the task and leaving it for future use. It does appear to be a bit of a task though.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
Yes, try it and it is not a tough task. Just few wires and capacitor and you're using Arduino as an ISP to burn the bootloader on your bad Uno. And since you have other Arduino's and Metro mini's laying around you can re-bootload those so you'll know what the process is like. For various ATmega328P based boards you can just bootload them as an Uno, and then just call all your boards Unos. That puts the Optiboot bootloader on them running at 115200 baud. There's a tutorial here on this website. It's the top hit when you google "arduino as isp tutorial". Check it out.
Thank you for the reply, info, and direction! Was all ready to just wire up my unopened Metro, then thought, perhaps just do it on a breadboard first… to make sure.
OK, set up Metro Mini as ISP, loaded sketch, wired to UNO, ran Arduino as ISP, ran Burn Bootloader, got error
“Error while burning the bootloader: Failed chip erase: uploading error: exit status 1”
Any input on this?
Dear Developers,
Set proper hardware connection, avoid loose connection.
Set proper fuse register bit as recommended.
Check your power supply at microcontroller vcc and gnd.
I think it might be work.
A Metro is a 3.3V device (as far as I know); without precautions mixing 3.3V and 5V devices might result in a damaged 3.3V board. Rather use one of the AVR based boards that you have.
Either
- Your target Uno is beyond repair.
- You made a wiring mistake.
- It might not work due to signal levels.
Not sure of previous versions, though the 2 that I have are marked for 3V & 5V.
Have triple checked wiring (read in that the Metro can be used as an UNO, therefore used the instructions for UNO. have not seen anything for Metro in specific) and rewired to be sure.
Can you expand on the signal level mention please?
If the Uno is beyond repair, could it be just the MEGS328P? Or could there be further issues?
I am curious and would like to attempt repair…
Apologies, I was confused with the newer Metros that use a different processor. So this should be safe.
In that case my comment about signal levels don't apply.
If your wiring is OK, my conclusion is that your Uno is beyond repair.
By “beyond repair” are you referring to it cannot be recovered with bootloader reflash?
Would it still be possible to repair by replacing components, such as ATMEGA328P or related components?
My venture is not to exclude replacing components… repairs have been in my history for decades, just somewhat new to electronics repair and Arduino.
Your advise is very much appreciated as you seem to be well versed in this field.
2 things you can do.
Re-review the tutorial about using Arduino as ISP. There are 2 points that are often missed:
A. failure to install a 10uF capacitor on the programmer Arduino (Metro Mini in your case) between reset and ground after you upload the ArduinoISP sketch. The capacitor is to prevent the programmer from resetting when using it to burn the bootloader on the target.
B. set the programmer in the tools menu as "Arduino as ISP" and not "ArduinoISP".
If you have any questions or doubts, post back here with pictures of your setup and detailed error information that appears in the bottom of the IDE window.
Swap the ATmega328P MCUs on the 2 clone Uno boards, and see if the problem follows the MCU or stays with the board. If the problem is with the MCU, replace the MCU.
You are correct! That was missed! Or it was not in the tutorial I followed…
Will get that corrected and give another try. :^)
Pretty sure that was followed, will double check though, THANKS!
The MCU’s are surface mount, this would be a major pain to do… but, might get to that… if the prior does not remedy things.
:^)
Capacitor is mentioned and pictured but unfortunately there are no really good tutorials that cover using a variety of Arduinos and that consistently show the capacitor installed. I think the tutorials often miss it in the wiring diagrams. The "official" tutorial (below) misses it in most of the diagrams. They do show it in one of the diagrams, and the text of the tutorial talks about it. https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/arduino-isp/ArduinoISP/
just reviewed the post
https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/arduino-isp/ArduinoISP/
and did not see a reference to a cap between reset and ground…
It's there!
Ok, I admit, I am not the best at finding all the details :^)
Added the 10 uF cap (used electrlytic) between reset and ground on the Metro and ran the reflash… got the same error :^(
How can I find the problem without desoldering the 328 chip… if possible…