(Mod : If I am not in the right place, feel free to move my message)
Since I am new in here, here is the topic : I have a steering, pedals and shifter model PXN-V9 (if you google). Nice designed, full of buttons and everything, I really like it “(- . -)”. In despite that they say that steering is made for racing (hate racing), I use it for American Trucks Simulator (aka ATS). Even if they are saying that the sterring is “also made” for ATS, I don’t believe them at all. Basically, that game needs a 1:1 precision like a real car or truck to drive smoothly without stress, being ready to face of eventual accidents but I don’t feel it at all.
I will try to describe how is my feeling : when I use the PXN-V9 on that game its like to see the devil. In fact, it’s like if you hold a wall-clock and the number 12 is the center. When you turn to the left, the front wheels start to turn at 57 mins of the clock, same with the right, 03 mins of the clock ; the deadzone is very huge. It is not responding at the moment when you need it (curbs, curves, facing someone in an opposite direction (eminant accident) and its stressful. I really don’t know how to explain that feeling.
In despite having set the steering with their drivers (exe) and on the ATS game (sensitivity, linearity) nothing helps, the deadzone is still present. I don’t want to put that steering in the trashcan because I still love it and something in me is saying that I can do something to fix the problem. So what I have done is to contact E-PXN to understand something or suggesting me to replace a part or any other assistance but no answer from them (k sayonara…). Days later, I decided to open (unscrewed) the steering myself to see inside of it (I will show you pictures if needed) and to be honest (feminine intuition), all the electronic stuff looks clear, simple and well done (10/10)…
When I continued my exploration, I saw that it uses a potentiometer (B103-10K) on a gear (two gears are inside with springs (force feedback)) and on the center of one gear, is molded in D to receive a D-shaped potentiometer in the middle and you drive with that. I was like “hunh hunh… here is my antichrist”. So looking at it (and experience of driving) that potentiometer is only good for tablemix or radio, not really made to drive with. Keeping the steering opened and extracting the potentiometer, I launched the ATS game and I drove with that potentiometer in my hands (2 fingers).
I see it like this : -10 - - - - - 0 - - - - - +10. But to keep my center on the road, it’s very hard because the deadzone near the 0 is too huge, I have to drive in zigzag (left, stop, right, stop, right, stop, left) like an old Nintendo Mario-Kart to keep my lane straight and I ragekill like a possessed Banshee… to be honest, driving with my keyboard is better “(¬ . ¬)”
Now I have some questions :
Is it possible to change that B103-10K potentiometer for a better one without deadzone ?
Is it possible to use a 360° rotary potentiometer (a word like that) to avoid any deadzone ? A perfect responding 1:1 ratio
If the answer of the #2 is yes, is it hard to make it works (extra components, dc power supply etc)
Don’t be scared to ask me more explanation or frame me or moralising me because I am a girl, I really need help on this and I would really like to fix the problem of the steering to enjoy it but I feel being very limited with my (electronic) knowledge. If someone can help me, I am ready to pay for the time and service “(- . -)”
(PS Note) If a “french” version of my case is needed, I will translate.
Thank you very much everyone “(- . -)”