You are right!
It's been 3 months since the thread started, I got lost.
Hi,
There is enough MOSFET switching in that circuit, I don't think 5V being shoved in the 5V pin is going to hurt anything.
I agree that 5V to peripherals should be a separate feed to the 5V supply with respect to the WiFi controller supply.
Possibly some bypassing too.
Tom.. 
PS, G'dnight... 
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yeah, his mentioning of WiFi reminded me it was not the basic Arduino UNO
I didn't say there would be. However, the OP has noted trouble he's having.
I did propose a 'solution'. I could have provided voluminous details - but probably not time well spent.
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What do you mean with "everything else"? The arduino should be able to power sensors and the like, so what should be external?
As of now, I have 2 power supplies in the project:
- 5V wall plug connected to the Uno 5V pin/GND powering 1) the Uno 2) the relay 3) the sensors
- 12V PSU for the water pumps
As described in earlier posts I wanted to avoid having to install 3 PSUs (1 arduino+sensors, 1 relay, 1 water pumps).
I am following the recommendation in this thread of earlier posts, where it was recommended to use the 5V pin as power input and a 5V power supply. According to https://docs.arduino.cc/learn/electronics/power-pins this should be 5V / 1A.
However, while I am having WiFi issues, which could be resolved by chosing a different powering method, my question was about powering the Uno+Relay+1 sensor from the regular USB-B port, or if this would result in issues. I am asking this because I am thinking of removing the humidity sensors from the Uno anway.
Maybe what I am trying to do is unclear from what I write, so I made a picture to better illustrate. This is what I currently have:
In this, WiFi is broken after 1 day.
In this variant, WiFi never breaks, but it was not the recommended solution of powering in this thread:
But anyway, this is what I want to change the design to, regardless of Wifi issues:
The question:
Can I now power this (variant 3) from regular USB-B port of the arduino Uno, since it now has to power 5 components (4 humidity sensors 1 ads115) less than before?
I did not have a 5V wallplug fritzing part, so consider the power supply connected to the breadboard to be a regular phone charger, and the power supply in the 2nd variant to be a regular USB-B cable.
I loathe fritzing, it's repellent.
I suggested that you branch, split, your 5V cable - with one branch going to the Arduino USB and the other then feeding the rest
I would think by "everything else" it would be understood as everything else running from (this) 5V.
I'm sorry to have suggested it - it seems to me a simple proposition, but there isn't an "amababa" 3-pin widget to implement it with.
Hi,
Can you please post a copy of your circuit, a hand drawn circuit in jpg, png?
Hand drawn and photographed is perfectly acceptable.
Please include ALL hardware, power supplies, component names and pin labels.
Try this wiring config, this way you are keeping the relay current away from the UNO supply current.
As @runaway_pancake has suggested.
Tom..
What are you missing? If I wanted to hand draw something, I would end up with a picture like the ones I already posted, with the difference being that it would probably be a lot uglier. The pictures I posted already contain all components?
And maybe I am missing something here, but the modifications you made to my picture end up with the very same circuit, no? Because the bottom 2 lines of the breadboard are connected, so it doesn't matter in which row you connect something.
Okay now I understand. So coming back to my original question:
Your answer is NO?
In this case, I think I wont need any modifications. It seems like the WiFi is stable when I remove my 4 humidity sensors from the circuit, and the Uno being powered from the 5V pin.
I just thought in the case where I remove the humidity sensors, I could simplify the setup by using the regular power input of the Uno.
The DC jack is your way of showing 5V USB power.
My suggestion was that you do this --
Your Replies lead me to think that you don't get it and that maybe you do.
I do not have an easy way to implement that, but that's what I meant by hacking a USB cable (branching the output).
Yes I understood what you meant.
Yes
You should have no problems.
"Yes, I understood what you meant."
None of your blarsted fritzis indicate that.
Tiny error in fritzing dwg. The two halves of the breadboard power busses are NOT connected unless and until you install "bridging" jumpers. So, as drawn, the leftmost ground lead does NOT connect to those three on the right.
Just a minor detail of major importance.
Because a schematic shows the information in a clearer and easier configuration to understand your project.
Can we please have some images of your project?
So we can see the ACTUAL layout of your components, as layout can be critical in some circuits, especially when using protoboards.
Thanks.. Tom...
Because a) they were posted before you clarified and b) they don't show your suggestion but my question of the topic.
Ah yes, I did not pay attention, you're right! Thanks.
Thanks!
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