Soldering 12AWG wire into solder cups

I am looking for advice on soldering stranded, 12ga, copper wire into solder cups already filled with solder.

I have forgotten how to make it work cleanly.

The part I can do is the removal of the wire. To remove the wire I cut some PVC to expose more wire, then...

  • apply loads of flux
  • heat the wire until solder boils on the wire
  • move the iron to contact the cup/solder in the cup
  • keep heat until cup solder boils
  • keep tension on the wire until it releases

Now, the part that I struggle with making clean... putting the same gauge wire back in the cup. I have started with an empty cup, full cup of unflowed solder, full cup of flowed solder... and making my remaining hair grayer. Where am I going wrong?

  1. I tried my iron from over 300c up to 380c (no display, just a knob). Any hotter and the connector plastic melts.
  2. Tin the wire
  3. Empty cup full of flux (or with a chunk of solder, or tinned, depending on try 1, 2 or 3)
  4. Apply heat to tinned wire until solder shines
  5. Apply heated wire and iron to cup until flux melts
  6. Apply solder (with third hand) to cup/wire/iron junction
  7. Hope the solder flows inside the cup and on the wire as I try to slide the wire into the cup before the solder hardens in the cup and on the wire... but that never works as I imagined, so I try another few times and I swear I'm never doing this again.

What am I missing now, that I did 100 times a day with Cannon plugs, when I was young and invincible? I already know I'm ugly, so that's not the problem. Leprechauns? chatGPT? (heh)

You forgot to tell us the type and mix of your solder and to tell us what is holding your "solder cup".

60/40, rosin core, rosin flux

Connector material seems to be a plastic. It takes a lot of heat before melting, but it smells plastic when I burn it. Not Bakelite. Not rubber (no crimping of wires). I am not set up for crimping, which would be preferred by me, but the connectors are solder connectors.

  • 60/40 Hummm :thinking:
    I am in love

  • 12 AWG stranded or solid wire ?
    “am looking for advice on soldering stranded”

  • Safety glasses on, add flux, heat cup to 340°C, shake so solder comes out on work bench. :scream:

  • Add flux, lightly re-tin cup.

  • Remove small amount of insulation from 12AWG, flux, lightly tin wire, cut to depth of cup + a little more.

  • 12AWG Wire in empty cup (with some flux), heat till you get nice wetting action.

How about showing a photo of the location and the wire to be soldered?

My process is:
1 Strip and tin wire,
2 Wet iron tip and hold on back side of solder cup until solder in cup melts,
3 Insert wire into cup and quickly move iron either up or to the front of the cup in order for the iron tip to contact both cup and wire,
4 Remove Iron once wire solder is wet and has a fillet.
5 Don't let wire move until solder solidifies

Add fresh solder in step 2 or 3 if necessary

The proper way is to remove the old solder from the cup and start fresh

Yes, that would have been better than describing it, but it is an infrequent task on one piece at a time, I get these "done" but not as I want ("thought I want?")... photos will be pending next one needing the job done.

Ah... I feel this is could be it... I may have been "bigger the blob, better the job" without thinking.

Yes, I do this (I did not write it) as it seems to increase chances of spreading heat and flowing cup and wire solder.

Yes, I flood it with flux, flow the solder, invert and tap solder out. Very clean, I can see the edges of the inside of the cup.

like a polaroid picture! : )

NO FAN, EVAR!

  • :+1: :rofl:

The image in post 7 of the XT60 is "exactly" my material (not a yellow connector, but cups), but confined (adjacent comm wires).

As I read, I see my steps, equipment and material are acceptable, but my problems are in my patience and concentration on changes occurring during heating, and accepting taking "a step back" from a mistake.

Thank you.

You need to transfer a lot of heat. Are you using a large chisel tip? The 12AWG wire becomes a huge heat sink

Medium tip. I see... more surface area for even heat. Makes sense.

  • I use the HAKKO T18-BR02 tip for most everything.
    For 12AWG use this part of the tip to heat the cup/wire.

Hi,
Does the tip fit neatly inside the cup?

What wattage?

Tom.. :smiley: :+1: :coffee: :australia:

Sry, reading fast.

Did @LarryD point out another tip which I see in the pictures?

When you do something like an XT60, put a corresponding XT60 connector on the other side. This greatly increases the chance of getting in and out without damaging the alignment.

a7

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  • Yes, in the olden days I did hundreds of DB09 and DB25 connectors just like that.
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Tip is round, but does not fully go into the cup.

I find any added heat sink hinders solder flow. But I will try this also.