Soldering iron 20w vs 30w

[m147]

I'm looking to get an inexpensive iron for starting out and learning. One thing I would like to do is desolder some components off a fried Uno. Also, learn to solder on veroboard and eventually do some simple projects. I know that solder stations and/or temp controlled ones are the best, but right now I'm not looking to spend that much money. I'm deciding between Hakko 500(20w) or 501(30w).
What are your recommendations.
Thanks

[jim-p]

If you buy the 20W, you will find there will be times when you wished you bought the 30W

[Paul_KD7HB]

@m147

One thing I would like to do is desolder some components off a fried Uno

IF those are surface mounted components, you will do better with a hot air soldering system! If you insist on an iron, get liquid flux and solder wick.

[ShermanP]

My memory is that the standard Radio Shack pencil soldering iron was a 30W iron. And I remember it working pretty well for soldering and desoldering.

Edit: For US persons, and possibly others, this looks interesting, especially at a significantly lower price than the Hakkos:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PZBPXLZ

But of course the question would be build quality.

[LarryD]

@m147

I'm looking to get an inexpensive iron for starting out and learning

inexpensive != quality

---

• Save up and buy a better quality iron.
  Quality is important when buying a soldering iron.
  If you will be doing a lot of future work in electronics, a good iron will be the best investment.

• I have used the FX-888D for many years, does everything I need.

---

FYI

Video 0010

Share tips you have come across

Two Terminal SMD Component Removal When you use a soldering iron to remove a two (2) terminal SMD device, you need to heat/unsolder both terminals at the same time. For example, when you have a 1206 resistor, both ends of the resistor need to be unsoldered simultaneously. You can use two soldering irons to do the above, or you can bridge the SMD with a wide tipped soldering iron. These SMD components are rigid and will not flex, hence a spatula will not fit under the device when just on…

---

Share tips you have come across

Circuit Prototyping Construction A new user eventually asks: “Now that I have made my circuit work on a solderless breadboard, how do I make it permanent.” The following images show a technique I use to make a one time, Point-to-Point circuit on a prototyping PCB. This is a valid way of wiring up a project circuit board; when you need to make several such circuits, it might be time to get PCBs made. If others have additional suggestions they can pass on, please do. The first thing we need…

---

Share tips you have come across

Heat Insertion of Brass Inserts I use M2, M3 and 2-56 brass inserts in electronic enclosures. 600, M2 brass inserts cost less than $20.00. For years I have used a soldering iron tip to install these Brass Inserts in plastic. 10 months ago, I upgraded to proper Heat Insertion Iron Tips. These tips are easy to install, fit the HAKKO FX888D soldering iron, fit standard 936 soldering irons, easy to use and highly effective. You can buy 3 different styles of these tips sets. These are inexpensive,…

---

Share tips you have come across

SMD Component Desoldering Tip Addendum It became obvious the following changes to the DIY SMD de-soldering tip construction method could be easier. Here you can see the 14AWG wire is captured between the M4 screw head and a washer. This method lets you adjust the length of the copper tips. De-soldering temperature is set to 350°C . No Silver Wire Soldering necessary. [AA] [BB] [CC] [SMD De-Soldering]

SMD De-Soldering

---

Share tips you have come across

Removing an Arduino 8 Pin Header Further to Post #1280 The images below show a process that effectively removes male header pins from your Arduino PCB. The key to this process is to solder a conductor to the bottom of all the pins. We use this connection, so all the pins are pulled equally. See this PDF for a 1:1" soldering tip pattern. Soldering Tip.pdf (29.5 KB) [A] [B] [C] [D] [E] EDIT [F] [Removing Male Headers]

Removing Male Headers

---

Share tips you have come across

SMD De-Soldering with I.C. Glue Removal Tools This technique was briefly mentioned earlier in this thread. It is repeated here to clarify the process. The images below should explain the process. Watch the YouTube Video for a bit more instruction. [A] [B] [C] [D] [F] [G] [H] [I] [J] Edit See the next post for video.

SMD I.C. Removal Using I.C. Glue Removal Tool

---

“

@m147

Also, learn to solder on veroboard and eventually do some simple projects.

---

Share tips you have come across

Magnet / Enamel Prototyping Wire Further to Post #1352 and #1353 In some situations, we might want to use Enamel Insulated Wire to make connections on our prototyping PCB. See the images below showing the wiring processes. You can buy this wire from many places on the internet, one store I use is: Suggest you use: for signal connections 0.19mm Solderable Enamel (Insulated) wire (100mA). for bus wire 0.25mm tinned copper (228mA). See the short YouTube video showing the removal of the en…

[ledsyn]

If you wanna become frustrated or even angry, then go for the cheap stuff.

Good tools is A and O, especially when your inexperienced.

Get a used solder station, like Weller, Metcal (probably high priced even used), Hakko etc
Good flux is important, especially for desolder jobs.
Leaded solder, because it got lower melting point. Good to mix with lead-free solder in PCB's, to get lower melting point. Lead-free solder can be a PITA.

Edit: Above is from own experience. Had a Weller 25 W solder iron. Damaged a lot with it, since it couldn't deliver enough heat. That in turn made me apply it even more to the solder joints, heating up components and copper pads. I was mad at it. Then I could afford a proper solder / desolder station, and now I'm happy, the misses is happy, the neighbors are happy. Happiness never end...

[xfpd]

USD 10.00 for 90W adjustable, fast heating (maybe 5 seconds), adjustable temperature, display:

Amazon.com: Soldering Iron Kit Electric, [Simple] Soldering Kit 90W Digital...

I used the 90W to repair my other solder iron, and now this is my favorite.

[ledsyn]

Poor previous iron. Ditched for a younger version.

What model is the older?

[dougp]

@ledsyn

Had a Weller 25 W solder iron. Damaged a lot with it, since it couldn't deliver enough heat. That in turn made me apply it even more to the solder joints, heating up components and copper pads. I was mad at it.

Bears repeating.

[xfpd]

@ledsyn

What model is the older?

60W, mechanical temperature dial. It started not heating reliably (needed another iron to repair this iron). The power cable was broken, no signs of physical, damage. Somewhere after the plug and before the circuit board. Probably years of folding/unfolding the power cable. I do not fold cables any more. I just stuff them to avoid bend-rebend.

[ledsyn]

folding/unfolding

I have seen plenty of charger cables, been plugged in while owner put the phone down on a flat surface, using the plug as support and so the cable is bent 90 degrees. Perhaps there's some kind of subscription

[jim-p]

Don't be deterred by the negative comments.
My first soldering iron was also a cheap radioshack iron because as a teenager it was all I could afford. It worked perfectly for doing hobby electronics once I learned how to solder correctly.

[2112]

I bought 6 of these kits and 5 are still working. The 6th is still new in the box.
The solder provided is of poor quality. Fortunately I had plenty of 63/37 to replace it with.
The tools are usable.

Amazon.com: Electronics Soldering Iron, SREMTCH 80W Precision Soldering Iron Kit...

[UKHeliBob]

@2112

I had plenty of 63/37 to replace it with.

Personally I prefer to use proper 60/40 leaded solder and plenty of flux, where appropriate

[ledsyn]

A recommendation, have a fan to blow away the fumes. A 120 mm pc fan is easy to place and power. If you later on do a lot of soldering, you wanna get an extraction system.

[TomGeorge]

@LarryD
I've worn out the scrolling wheel on my mouse...
Good info.

Tom...

[ShermanP]

@2112

I bought 6 of these kits and 5 are still working.

Do these have iron tips, or something less durable?

My one reservation about the Radio Shack iron was that the tips were nickel-plated copper, or something similar, which degraded pretty rapidly. Had to file them down to a new point. My understanding is the fancy expensive irons have iron tips, or at least iron-plated, that last a long time.

[2112]

@ShermanP

Do these have iron tips, or something less durable?

I have no idea. Whichever is cheaper I'm sure.

They are 900M-T tips so you can replace them with any 900-T series tip available.

[latedev]

me too.
I think the original Antec irons were 25W

[m147]

Seems the consensus is 20w is insufficient. I do get all the advice to get temp controlled iron but that one is about 4 times the price. I don't really know how much I'll be using it, so I can't really justify the price increase. Certainly not a soldering station for 20 times the price. The irons I'm looking at cost about 1,000~1,400¥ so less than 10$ usd. If it's not any good it's not such a loss. If I get into it and want to upgrade I can always go for a temp controlled one.

How about a 40w one? Better than 30w?