Soldering issue?? RFID not working...

Hi guys. I can’t any reaction out of RFID chip

I soldered my RFID RC522 yesterday.

On my first Attempt it ended up like Pic1
I was told to re-do it and the second (and current) version looks like Pic2

I did NOT plug the RC522 before i reached Pic2

Now… I tried running the “DumpInfo” example and connected the pins as it says but still no reaction…

Can someone point me in the right direction? Is it firmware, soldering or something else maybe?

Code

/*
 * --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 * Example sketch/program showing how to read data from a PICC to serial.
 * --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 * This is a MFRC522 library example; for further details and other examples see: https://github.com/miguelbalboa/rfid
 * 
 * Example sketch/program showing how to read data from a PICC (that is: a RFID Tag or Card) using a MFRC522 based RFID
 * Reader on the Arduino SPI interface.
 * 
 * When the Arduino and the MFRC522 module are connected (see the pin layout below), load this sketch into Arduino IDE
 * then verify/compile and upload it. To see the output: use Tools, Serial Monitor of the IDE (hit Ctrl+Shft+M). When
 * you present a PICC (that is: a RFID Tag or Card) at reading distance of the MFRC522 Reader/PCD, the serial output
 * will show the ID/UID, type and any data blocks it can read. Note: you may see "Timeout in communication" messages
 * when removing the PICC from reading distance too early.
 * 
 * If your reader supports it, this sketch/program will read all the PICCs presented (that is: multiple tag reading).
 * So if you stack two or more PICCs on top of each other and present them to the reader, it will first output all
 * details of the first and then the next PICC. Note that this may take some time as all data blocks are dumped, so
 * keep the PICCs at reading distance until complete.
 * 
 * @license Released into the public domain.
 * 
 * Typical pin layout used:
 * -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 *             MFRC522      Arduino       Arduino   Arduino    Arduino          Arduino
 *             Reader/PCD   Uno/101       Mega      Nano v3    Leonardo/Micro   Pro Micro
 * Signal      Pin          Pin           Pin       Pin        Pin              Pin
 * -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 * RST/Reset   RST          9             5         D9         RESET/ICSP-5     RST
 * SPI SS      SDA(SS)      10            53        D10        10               10
 * SPI MOSI    MOSI         11 / ICSP-4   51        D11        ICSP-4           16
 * SPI MISO    MISO         12 / ICSP-1   50        D12        ICSP-1           14
 * SPI SCK     SCK          13 / ICSP-3   52        D13        ICSP-3           15
 */

#include <SPI.h>
#include <MFRC522.h>

#define RST_PIN         9          // Configurable, see typical pin layout above
#define SS_PIN          10         // Configurable, see typical pin layout above

MFRC522 mfrc522(SS_PIN, RST_PIN);  // Create MFRC522 instance

void setup() {
	Serial.begin(9600);		// Initialize serial communications with the PC
	while (!Serial);		// Do nothing if no serial port is opened (added for Arduinos based on ATMEGA32U4)
	SPI.begin();			// Init SPI bus
	mfrc522.PCD_Init();		// Init MFRC522
	delay(4);				// Optional delay. Some board do need more time after init to be ready, see Readme
	mfrc522.PCD_DumpVersionToSerial();	// Show details of PCD - MFRC522 Card Reader details
	Serial.println(F("Scan PICC to see UID, SAK, type, and data blocks..."));
}

void loop() {
	// Reset the loop if no new card present on the sensor/reader. This saves the entire process when idle.
	if ( ! mfrc522.PICC_IsNewCardPresent()) {
		return;
	}

	// Select one of the cards
	if ( ! mfrc522.PICC_ReadCardSerial()) {
		return;
	}

	// Dump debug info about the card; PICC_HaltA() is automatically called
	mfrc522.PICC_DumpToSerial(&(mfrc522.uid));
}

1.jpg

2.jpg

result.JPG

Is it firmware, soldering or something else maybe?

Could be anything, you have provided precious little detail.

  1. Soldering still looks wrong on picture 2, but the angle is not the best for looking at it. The balls high up the pin suggest that it is not making proper contact with the PCB tracks.

  2. What Arduino are you using?

  3. How are you connecting this to the Arduino?

Typical problem is using a 5V Arduino on a 3V3 board like this with no level shifting.

Good news, bad news.
The bad news is that this is a terrible soldering job. The iron is too cold and there is way too much solder. It appears that three of the blobs are shorted to its neighbor.

The good news is that the board itself is probably OK. just heat up each pin and shake, suck or wick off the excess solder.

solder-wick.jpg

On further thought, unless you are proficient at soldering, you are likely going to damage the board with the wick.

solder-wick.jpg

The pictures also show no flux residue, so flux was not used in the soldering operation. It is a MUST to clean the metal and protect the molten solder from oxidation.

Paul

You guys are referring to pic2 ?
so how sure are u that the soldering might be the problem? :slight_smile:

patojhr:
You guys are referring to pic2 ?
so how sure are u that the soldering might be the problem? :slight_smile:

Fix known problems and the unknown might go away.

Paul

I think that I would be putting money on it! I can see shorted as well as dry joints. Sort that out and I reckon it will work. You need a hot iron, 60/40 Leaded solder and some practice. Don't be tempted by lead free solder until you are far more experienced.

patojhr:
You guys are referring to pic2 ?
so how sure are u that the soldering might be the problem? :slight_smile:

Somewhere between 100% and 100%.

AJLElectronics:
I think that I would be putting money on it! I can see shorted as well as dry joints. Sort that out and I reckon it will work. You need a hot iron, 60/40 Leaded solder and some practice. Don't be tempted by lead free solder until you are far more experienced.

I've been soldering longer than most of you and I won't risk lead-free solder.

This is what you should use:

solder.jpg

60/40 (tin/lead), flux core, 1mm (max) diameter.

solder.jpg

From pictures 2 its visible there are sold solder joints. But why did you have to be told to redo the solder in picture 1 when you can see the pins are shorted together.

FYI