Hello.
I am working with arduino and a solid state relay to control AC lamps etc. I am facing a problem.
Relay picture is attached .
The relay is leaking current even though it is off. And it is not a faulty relay all of them are doing the same .
SSR-40 DA
Made in Taiwan.
You need to post your circuit diagram.
Here is the image
no circuit is attached just 1 live wire and relay is off but still showing voltage on the other terminal
no circuit is attached just 1 live wire...
Some leakage is normal. It's not like a regular electro-mechanical relay where physical contacts are opened and closed. The [u]specs[/u] say 3mA.
If you put a normal load on it (maybe 10W or more) and the voltage should drop drastically.
I am working with arduino and a solid state relay to control AC lamps etc.
That is not enough information. What kind of ac lamps and what wattage?
Problems with LED lamps is not surprising, add a resistive load in parallel as suggested above.
Thanks for the reply. but i havent worked with these kind of relays but can anyone tell me how to apply a load just to rectify this leakage other then the main load .
tell me how to apply a load just to rectify this leakage other then the main load .
Sorry, I don't understand.
When you say "rectify", do you mean "correct" or do you mean like a diode-rectifier?
You said "no circuit is attached"... Is there a problem when a load is connected? What exactly is the problem? Are the lights coming-on dimly when they should be off? Are they always on full-brightness?
Exactly what is the load? Incandescent lamps? Fluorescent lamps? LED lamps? What wattage?
If leakage is a problem in your application maybe you should be using a regular electro-mechanical relay...
That is not a proper test for leakage, of course a neon lamp will light in that way, it only requires microamps (or less) to ionize the neon gas.
OP’s image:
PS:Using those cheap Chinese clip leads with mains voltage is just asking for trouble of the deadly kind. Wire it properly before you kill yourself. Draw any amperage through it and it will explode in your face.
Umair78:
Thanks for the reply. but i havent worked with these kind of relays but can anyone tell me how to apply a load just to rectify this leakage other then the main load .
How are you going to connect a lamp for your project?
Can you tell us your electronics, programming, arduino, hardware experience?
If you don't know how to connect a circuit and are going to be working with mains voltages, DON'T.
You need a good knowledge of electrical basics before playing with dangerous potentials.
Thanks.. Tom.. 
I am controlling an air-conditioner with these relays. The problem is when the relay is turned off the air-conditioner also turns off which if fine but the display in the air-conditioner start blinking.
Air-conditioner turns off completely but the temperature display on the air-conditioner starts blinking. So i want to solve that problem.
And circuit is simple.
Relay input is controlled by arduino uno pin 4 .
And the air-conditioner live wire goes through the Ac switching terminals of the relay.
The "leakage" is most likely capacitive through the "snubber" network in the SSR. 3 mA sounds entirely plausible.
We would need some details - including a circuit diagram - of the air conditioner and how it is being wired, to determine exactly how this problem is occurring and thus, how to correct it. It is clear that the problem is only in the display and no more than cosmetic.
The problem is when the relay is turned off the air-conditioner also turns off which if fine but the display in the air-conditioner start blinking.
Air-conditioner turns off completely but the temperature display on the air-conditioner starts blinking. So i want to solve that problem.
That's surprising... But we don't know anything about the A/C unit. Maybe there's another relay inside the unit because I'm pretty sure if the compressor motor was connected, the voltage would be pulled-down to nearly zero and the display wouldn't light-up or blink.
I wonder if something else is powering the display? Is this a programmable thermostat with a battery? What happens if you disconnect the high-voltage side of the relay, so there's can't be any leakage?
Do you have a multimeter to measure the voltage applied to the A/C unit when the relay is off?
If this problem is really related to leakage, I can think of 3 possible solutions:
1. Live with it.
2. Add a light bulb (a standard incandescent) in parallel with the air conditioner. Start with about 10W. If the light bulb lights-up dimly you may still have enough leakage to cause a problem so you may have to try a higher-wattage bulb. This doesn't stop the leakage current. It "diverts" the current into the light bulb and it will reduce the voltage. Of course this wastes a small amount of energy and it creates a small amount of heat while the A/C unit is turned on.
3. Use a regular relay, or find a solid state relay with less leakage. A regular relay will require a driver circuit for the coil and you may need to supply 12V or 24V to the coil, depending on the relay. You can fine "relay boards" that have a built-in driver and run from 5V, but make sure it can handle the current of your A/C unit.
DVDdoug:
That's surprising... But we don't know anything about the A/C unit. Maybe there's another relay inside the unit because I'm pretty sure if the compressor motor was connected, the voltage would be pulled-down to nearly zero and the display wouldn't light-up or blink.I wonder if something else is powering the display? Is this a programmable thermostat with a battery? What happens if you disconnect the high-voltage side of the relay, so there's can't be any leakage?
Do you have a multimeter to measure the voltage applied to the A/C unit when the relay is off?
If this problem is really related to leakage, I can think of 3 possible solutions:
1. Live with it.
2. Add a light bulb (a standard incandescent) in parallel with the air conditioner. Start with about 10W. If the light bulb lights-up dimly you may still have enough leakage to cause a problem so you may have to try a higher-wattage bulb. This doesn't stop the leakage current. It "diverts" the current into the light bulb and it will reduce the voltage. Of course this wastes a small amount of energy and it creates a small amount of heat while the A/C unit is turned on.
3. Use a regular relay, or find a solid state relay with less leakage. A regular relay will require a driver circuit for the coil and you may need to supply 12V or 24V to the coil, depending on the relay. You can fine "relay boards" that have a built-in driver and run from 5V, but make sure it can handle the current of your A/C unit.
Thanks for your response. It is solved by attaching a bulb but now I want to disconnect the bulb and as far as i researched I found these 2 solutions .
- Bleeder resistor.
- Varistors.
But do you have any knowledge regarding any of those and what will be a better option
- Bleeder resistor.
One way to calculate power (wattage) is P = V2/R.
So the resistance of your light bulb is:
R = V2/P
For example, if you are in the U.S. and connected to 120VAC, a 10W light bulb is 1440 Ohms.
If you measure the resistance with a multimeter it will measure much lower because the resistance goes up when the tungsten gets white-hot.
Of course, you'd need a power resistor rated at 10W or more. It's standard practice to "derate" components, so I'd recommend a 20W resistor. Of course, a 20W resistor of the same resistance would still be dissipating 10W.
It's actually the cold-resistance that you're "using" because the bulb is off (unlit) when the relay is "off". But, using a resistor matching the cold-resistance would waste more power when the relay is on, and you'd need a bigger (higher wattage) resistor.
And/or you can get a selection of resistors and choose the maximum resistance (minimum current & power) required to stop the display from blinking.
The advantage of a (properly rated/derated) resistor is that it won't burn-out like a light bulb. And... It won't put-out unwanted light... 
- Varistors.
I don't know how that would work...
DVDdoug:
Of course, you'd need a power resistor rated at 10W or more.
Or a - likely cheaper - light bulb!
DVDdoug:
It's actually the cold-resistance that you're "using" because the bulb is off (unlit) when the relay is "off". But, using a resistor matching the cold-resistance would waste more power when the relay is on, and you'd need a bigger (higher wattage) resistor.
So you use a light bulb that is rated at a much lower wattage. That is precisely the characteristic you are seeking. A light bulb effectively shunts out the leakage, but when turned on, wastes the minimum power. The light bulb is for this purpose, the preferred load. 
3 mA at 110 V corresponds to 0.33 W. A 1 W (incandescent) globe (if you could find one) would be more than adequate. And note - as the current is capacitive, if most of the voltage is across the SSR, then it is not drawing power at all when off.
(When the light bulb eventually fails, you know because the "flashing" starts again, so you just replace the bulb! 
)