Using Arduino to control DC voltage to a pump

Hi everyone, I am currently contemplating using an Arduino to control the DC voltage being supplied to a fuel pump for use in a centrifugal turbojet I am making, as it will replace the need for a bypass valve to control fuel pressures. I would like to use something like a potentiometer to adjust the voltage, but I do not know what type of device I should use to actually modulate the voltage. I have heard of DC controllers, but I am relatively new to electronics. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. For reference, it is a 12v pump. Thanks

Do you have the model information on the pump?

First thoughts are to use PWM

Weedpharma

check out these links:

In case you are regulator challenged, an LM317 is one of the oldest adjustable linear regulars in history. It
has been around since the stone age and has foldback current limiting. I believe it is limited to between 1 and 1.5A . Normally it is controlled with a potentiometer. The above links show some ways to substitute an
arduino for the potentiometer. FYI. You don't need an Arduino UNO. You can do that with an 8-pin ATtiny85
DIP chip. You will need an UNO to program the ATtiny85 but if learning how to do that is too much for you then you can use a Pro-Mini. They are about the footprint of a large postage stamp. You will need an FTDI
BASIC or equivilent (USB->TTL converter) to load the sketches into the Pro-Mini. You will need to install
the FTDI USB driver for that to work.

It is just a 12v pump, capable of 100 psi and a flow rate of 1.1 gallons per minute. And I had considered PWM, but the arduino cannot output enough current to supply the pump.I have worked with some arduino projects before so I am not completely new- I have made a system using an arduino that controls the firing of a fuel injector using a simple relay and potentiometer, then outputting the fire rate to an lcd screen.

raschemmel:
check out these links:
Google

In case you are regulator challenged, an LM317 is one of the oldest adjustable linear regulars in history. It
has been around since the stone age and has foldback current limiting. I believe it is limited to between 1 and 1.5A . Normally it is controlled with a potentiometer. The above links show some ways to substitute an
arduino for the potentiometer. FYI. You don't need an Arduino UNO. You can do that with an 8-pin ATtiny85
DIP chip. You will need an UNO to program the ATtiny85 but if learning how to do that is too much for you then you can use a Pro-Mini. They are about the footprint of a large postage stamp. You will need an FTDI
BASIC or equivilent (USB->TTL converter) to load the sketches into the Pro-Mini. You will need to install
the FTDI USB driver for that to work.

raschemmel:
check out these links:
[Google](Google
duino+pwm+lm317)

In case you are regulator challenged, an LM317 is one of the oldest adjustable linear regulars in history. It
has been around since the stone age and has foldback current limiting. I believe it is limited to between 1 and 1.5A . Normally it is controlled with a potentiometer. The above links show some ways to substitute an
arduino for the potentiometer. FYI. You don't need an Arduino UNO. You can do that with an 8-pin ATtiny85
DIP chip. You will need an UNO to program the ATtiny85 but if learning how to do that is too much for you then you can use a Pro-Mini. They are about the footprint of a large postage stamp. You will need an FTDI
BASIC or equivilent (USB->TTL converter) to load the sketches into the Pro-Mini. You will need to install
the FTDI USB driver for that to work.

I don't really know what you mean by regulator challenged, regulator in terms of electronics or regulator in terms of pressure regulation?

He is saying that if you don't know much about voltage regulators...

You will need to use mosfet to drive the pump as you correctly said, the Arduino connot drive it correctly.

There are numerous posts of circuits using mosfet drive. The best type to buy is one that can be fully driven by the 5v from your arduino. Be careful that you have one that is fully turned on or you will have heat problems in the mosfet.

Have you measured the current draw of the motor under load? This will help with the selection of the mosfet.

Weedpharma

I do not know the current draw of the motor under load.

OK to be looking at alternatives but I would be inclined to remain with the by-pass system.
It is there for a reason and if you look at what the reasoning is, perhaps save a lot of time and effort on an unworkable system.

The only problem with the bypass system, is that once I get the engine mounted to a bike, I will have to run liquid fuel lines to a ball valve up to the handlebars, and run a return line back down the frame to the fuel tank. It is much more simple though