Using diode and resistor in parallel

That is a pretty complex controller and should not need any extra parts to absorb spikes etc .
It is designed for a specific motor type , and needs setting up .
It’s not an Arduino issue and hard to know what’s wrong . Maybe ….

  • wrong motor type ( needs separate field winding ?)
  • wrong power supply voltage , current capability 36-48v , 10’s amps .
  • not setup correctly via its programmer , PC application

It is designed for “big “ motors ( golf buggies etc ) you maybe trying operate outside of its design parameters.
There is a section on driving contactors in the instructions which details how, and asks you to specify battery voltage, contactor voltage etc to set that up ….

Try this

It shows what you need and why. You just need a suitable diode, but others have covered that.

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The simplest, cheapest way to control a solenoid with an Arduino is through a MOSFET. When wired correctly (there MUST be a flyback diode across the coil, or it WILL die very quickly) this is a very robust and reliable way of driving that solenoid.
This motor driver (I skimmed the manual) sounds like total overkill, or even the wrong tool for the job. You don't need speed control, direction control, regenerative braking, or all that - that doesn't apply to a solenoid.

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Thank you for sharing your flyback diode links. That was a very interesting read.

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I did decide to remove the diode/resistor that I added to see if it worked without it. It’s working without it. Y’all were right it was a fluke.

To recap: It wasn’t working at all or at least very rarely it would work correctly. I tired the resistor/diode solution and it worked fine. Over and over again. Nothing else changed. It worked perfect, but because y’all said that wasn’t the solution I decided to go back to how it was and see if it would work correctly without the diode and resistor and it did. I connected it like it was originally when it didn’t work.

I still don’t understand. I don’t understand what changed, but I am glad it did…. I also don’t understand why my setup wouldn’t work. I assumed something was faulty in the controller that was why I was trying the external solution.

How does the controller “sense” a high current draw? I was trying to “fake” the controller in to thinking there was minimal current being drawn from the driver pin so that it wouldn’t shut itself down. How could I do that (if I needed to)?

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