wattage consumption

Hello, I live in West Palm Beach, FL. We have a hurricane heading close by us and in case I lose power I am trying to see how many devices I can run on my Inverter and my question is:

  1. My Xbox one's power supply says it uses 12v at 17.9A.
    Then under that, it says 250wh.
    When i multiply 12 times 17.9 i get = 214 w?? Those numbers don't exactly add up.

  2. Then, when i looked it up online here it says that while playing a video game it draws 112 watts.

So i am utterly confused, can someone please help.

17.9A isn't how much current it outputs. The current is determined by the load. If you have nothing connected to it, it outputs exactly zero amps. And, apparently, playing a video game draws about 10 amps. It can output up to 17.9A, beyond which maybe a fuse blows.

And the 12V may not be fully regulated. It may be, but it may not.

The power supply PROVIDES 12V up to 17.9A, and consumes 250W from the wall. The difference of 250-214 means your power supply is 85.6% efficient. Typical of switching power supplies.

You're confusing the power supply ratings with the load (Xbox) ratings. They are totally different things.
Hello !
The power supply is NOT the Xbox !

SteveMann:
The power supply PROVIDES 12V up to 17.9A, and consumes 250W from the wall. The difference of 250-214 means your power supply is 85.6% efficient. Typical of switching power supplies.

So if i am using wattage calculations for an inverter, do i use the 150w that the xbox use's? or the 250w consumed from the wall?

As already stated , the 250W is not the xbox power consumption !
It is the power supply MAXIMUM RATING.
The xbox does not consume that much.
If you're cslculating loads then look at the LOAD (XBOX) NOT the supply.

You have a potentially destructive hurricane threatening and your prime concern is whether you can play a game or not ?

You have a potentially destructive hurricane threatening and your prime concern is whether you can play a game or not ?

I don't know what you do to kill time during a hurricane but obviously the OP has his priorities straight...

jackrae:
You have a potentially destructive hurricane threatening and your prime concern is whether you can play a game or not ?

ya, first of all, you don't know any of the details, my parents already have generators for the a.c, fridge and lights and i have my own 2000w generator,
so why do you shut your mouth on things that you have no clue.

so why do you shut your mouth on things that you have no clue.

That attitude is not going to go over well with the Moderators...

Hi,
I think the INPUT parameter is the more important.
In this case 110V at 4.19A = 110 * 4.19 = 540W input.

That would be the maximum power consumption.

Tom.. :slight_smile:
PS, As for the remark about priorities, if you have kids then this device will be invaluable not during the hurricane but after, when for a time, it will be dangerous to go play outdoors.

TomGeorge:
Hi,
I think the INPUT parameter is the more important.
In this case 110V at 4.19A = 110 * 4.19 = 540W input.

That would be the maximum power consumption.

Tom.. :slight_smile:
PS, As for the remark about priorities, if you have kids then this device will be invaluable not during the hurricane but after, when for a time, it will be dangerous to go play outdoors.

Thank you for the reply, to make sure, so if i have a 2000w inverter then the xbox accounts for 540w leaving me with 1460w ( I aware that you dont always get the full wattage of the inveter)??

If that is the case, then why is the xbox one says it only use 112 watts?
Thanks again.

Hi,
If XBox itself consumes 112Watts.
Then the power supply being capable of 540W means if there are any accessories that can be connected to the XBox system, then it will have the capacity to safely power them as well.
It may be worth looking around for a plug in energy meter of some sort.

Google plug in power meter

I have one and it takes the guess work out of doing load measurements on domestic appliances.


Tom.. :slight_smile:

This is AC, the rms current times the rms voltage is not the power, its the apparent power. Real power can be a lot less than apparent power for a reactive load.

The maximum current draw given is probably the startup inrush current, not the steady current consumption
anyway. The reason its given is to size the circuit and fuse appropriately, not as an indication of power consumption.

The label erroneously says "Wh" instead of "W" for power consumption and standby power consumption. That
doesn't inspire any confidence in the numbers on the label to me.