What's the best potentiometer to work with Analog pins on arduino?
recently I tested few 1K potentiometers with arduino and at the beginning I thought they are
damaged at 1/4 of spin they got from 0 to 400 and stopped, 2nd potentiometer also 1k
half spin from 0 to 800 and stopped well I start thinking I got damaged potentiometers so dam I
tested a 3rd one to confirm the bug so I was true also half turn from -50 to 600....
So I'm not sure if I want to use 1k pots any more, I've seen the arduino example and they use a 10k
pot, so what's the best K/Ohms pot to use? I need to have accurate data not small bugs..etc
Domino60:
What's the best potentiometer to work with Analog pins on arduino?
recently I tested few 1K potentiometers with arduino and at the beginning I thought they are
damaged at 1/4 of spin they got from 0 to 400 and stopped, 2nd potentiometer also 1k
half spin from 0 to 800 and stopped well I start thinking I got damaged potentiometers so dam I
tested a 3rd one to confirm the bug so I was true also half turn from -50 to 600....
So I'm not sure if I want to use 1k pots any more, I've seen the arduino example and they use a 10k
pot, so what's the best K/Ohms pot to use? I need to have accurate data not small bugs..etc
Any good pots?
Nothing wrong with 1k pot. Larger than 10k might lead to slight inaccuracy, lower than 1k would
be wasting supply current.
You clearly have a problem, but without fuller information its impossible to diagnose. Post your code,
post your circuit - this is pretty much mandatory if you want help, since guesswork is often wrong.
I've gotten pots like below and they worked well with the arduino.
dam it I need exactly the same pots right now
I'm working on a gaming joystick and I want to change the pots because they are not accurate and
probably rusted inside.
I tried to map() them for a future project but they change all the time, it's like there is something inside
them and makes the variable jump around all the time, it's not stable, i spin then once around and i go back to the starting potision and the value is other, from 40 at starting point spin once go back to starting point and they are at 85 or something like that. ps the joystick structure is stable, i tested many times
tested a 3rd one to confirm the bug so I was true also half turn from -50 to 600....
The ADC won't give you a negative number (although you can map it to a negative number). So if you are not intentionally mapping it negative, that's a software bug.
It's also possible that you've wired the pots wrong (but you can't get negative readings with bad wiring or with a bad pot).
Don't use an "audio pot". An audio pot will give you the full-range, but they are not linear.
I'd be surprised if you have several pots with the same/similar defect. But, it wouldn't hurt to buy new pots from a reputable supplier.
Sometimes [u]control cleaner[/u] can fix a pot. But usually, a dirty pot is "noisy" or "glitchy" and it will usually be OK at both ends, just unstable/unreliable in the middle.
I got B104 pot's not sure what exactly the resistance is but I made a fast search on google and I found
that they maybe are a 1k~500k variable pot.
I'm using this code I wrote as example to test my pots:
const int led = 11;
int val = 0;
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
pinMode(led, OUTPUT);
}
void loop() {
val = analogRead(A0);
val = map(val, 0, 1023, 0, 255);
analogWrite(led, val);
Serial.println(val);
delay(200);
}
The 1st pot is working really well at 0-255 but the 2nd one only from 40-220 and a small problems to vibrations, then I vibrate the pot it's jumping a lot around.
I got B104 pot's not sure what exactly the resistance is but I made a fast search on google and I found
that they maybe are a 1k~500k variable pot.
You can easily measure the resistance across the outside pot pins with a multimeter to find the pot resistance. The fact that you have ruined several pots indicates you have not wired them in a circuit correctly. If you wire a pot across a power supply using an end pin and the center wiper pin, then when the pot is turned from one end stop to the other, at some point the pot will most likely be destroyed.
Suggestion: Connect a 1uF capacitor from the analog input to GND. This will lower the input impedance and provide much more accurate and stable readings. If you're switching from one analog input to another, take a double reading and discard the first.
Arduino's analog input only works accurately (and has stability) if the input impedance is less than or equal to 10K. Worst case response when the pot's output is 500K and using 1uF is 0.5 sec.
I'm looking the same but specific pot, not random pots or standart (picture of the actual pot bellow).
You can easily measure the resistance across the outside pot pins with a multimeter to find the pot resistance. The fact that you have ruined several pots indicates you have not wired them in a circuit correctly. If you wire a pot across a power supply using an end pin and the center wiper pin, then when the pot is turned from one end stop to the other, at some point the pot will most likely be destroyed.
I don't have a bag of pots I just had 4 pots with different resistance, I already knew that one is damaged
because i put thru it high voltage, i had another 2 from a joystick and a random one around.
I know exactly how to pin out a pot GND<Analog pin>+5v nothing hard.
Suggestion: Connect a 1uF capacitor from the analog input to GND. This will lower the input impedance and provide much more accurate and stable readings. If you're switching from one analog input to another, take a double reading and discard the first.
That's pretty good info, i will try that out for sure.
This is the exact pot that I need, with that exact shaft.
Well If I'll not be able to find it I may buy a 10k pot and modifie it, cut, sand what ever it takes
to make that exact shaft
That is a special joystick pot - the actual resistive track - the black part - is only about 60° of the travel from minimum to maximum resistance. Your first description now suggests that it was working correctly.
You might need to find a complete replacement joystick assembly.
That is a special joystick pot - the actual resistive track - the black part - is only about 60° of the travel from minimum to maximum resistance. Your first description now suggests that it was working correctly.
You might need to find a complete replacement joystick assembly.
Yes I know that they are 60° and they are working fine, in the 1st comment i was talking about other pots that I had but this exactly one in the picture that I took above was damaged inside, with small vibrations the actual
pins on the track was lose from the plastic holder. The other one that I have is working fine.
Now I know this one is 60° and the 10k one is 340 something degrees, If I will not find that kind of pot I'm thinking to take the 10k one, sand the shaft and map() it in the code to use that exact angle.
btw is there any others pots/models of pots that work at 60` ?
I suspect the answer to the original question is "a newly purchased B10k pot, not one recovered from an ancient joystick"
Yea but you see I need exact dregree one not 320~340 degrees, I will try to search the original pot but
if i will not get lucky gonna just a 10k one and map is on my needs
