I am still very new to arduino, so bare with me. I was trying to make a digital dice with an arduino nano, a tilt switch, a seven segment display, and a button. I thought my circuitry was over so I moved on to start a bit of coding for it and I wanted to test my code, so I plugged it in, and it started smoking. I unplugged and came here to ask questions. I was planning on using a small li-ion battery to power the arduino so it could be portable, but I was pretty sure the circuit was complete without it and could run off of the cable to the PC, so I don't know if that has to do with anything. I hope my arduino isn't damaged, but if it is, I have another and I'll live lol. If you know if i might have damaged something or what is wrong that caused the smoke, I would really appreciate your help! I took some picture to show you guys, but there are a lot of wires and i can understand if you dont completely see or understabd the circuit from a photo, so feel free to ask me any questions about the circuit. Anyways here are some pictures: (it would only let me send one)
You need to provide the full description of the circuit. Draw it using this tool:
...or something similar. And give us a list of each component and their datasheets.
Just judging from the picture, not knowing anything about your components, my guess is that the seven segment display you have there needs current limiting resistors, which you don't seem to have. It looks like the cables go from pin to display and back to another pin, to form a multiplexing thing. Of course you might have resistors there, which can't be seen. They might even be built in the display.
I tried to make a EasyEDA Circuit Diagram, but I'm brand new to the software so I'm not sure if I got the exactly correct models of hardware but I tried my best. The connections should be the same as what I have on my breadboard as long as connecting to two wires that both go to ground(etc.) work the same as a row on a breadboard. Also, I wouldn't be surprised if it was because of the absence of resistors on the seven segment display. I am now remembering reading something that said that you can use a code as a virtual resistor instead, but I already had my breadboard all set up so I didn't think to take the nano out and upload the code before plugging in the nano to the breadboard. Anyways, any more help or advice would be very helpful and appreciated.
It wouldn't let me upload my schematic... how do I fix this? lol
EDIT 1: I had another account that I used and I was able to upload the schematic here.
Also, you have limited replies in the first 24 hours. If you get to the limit, you can edit your posts, but make sure you say "EDIT 1:", "EDIT 2:" and so on to not confuse people on the forum. Also, you need to mention people in order to notify them.
I don't know if your second account is also new, but here you go.
You are shortcutting the 5 V through the switch to GND. The 5 V seems to go straight to the D12, too.
You hanen't told us what kind of unit the 7 segment display is. It seems to be a common anode or common cathode thing. But your connection suggests something quite different, if it is correct.
I don't know what a virtual resistor is, but I'm most sure it is not used with leds. And I'm most sure your 7 segment display needs the resistors. The resistors are not built in, because that would restrict the display to only one voltage.
Do you mean I shouldn't have the tilt ball switch connected to a data pin and 5V on the same side?
If so, what is the alternative?
The 5V is supposed to be connecting to the tilt ball switch as well as the data wire connected to the tilt ball switch on the same side of the switch. They could be connecting to each other because they are on the same row, but that was not my intention.
If this is one of the problems, how would I separate them but still have them connected to the same side of the switch?
Would I just have to use wires to put them on two separate rows that are open?
Update: I added a 1k resistor between my ground and my seven segment display. Haven't done anything else yet because I need confirmation on to what I should try/do next to comfortably move forward. I am going to do a few things and be back later to check if anybody has any advice.
When the switch connects, you have a shortcut along the line I highlighted.
As I can see, it's a common cathode thing. A – G and DP should be fed with HIGH from the data pins, as long as your microcontroller can provide the current. If it can't, you need transistors inbetween. I guess your Arduino can handle that, but you definitely need the resistors on each line.
Then you have G1 going to GND, which is as it should. G1 is the common cathode. G2 is probably another cathode, which lights up another colour, at least according to this:
In this image, 1 and 5 would be your G1 and G2. But I suspect your 5611AH is a single colour display, in which case G1 and G2 are internally connected. In your circuit, you connect G1 to GND and G2 via 220 Ohm to 5 V. If G1 is the same as G2, you burn 23 m̶V̶, mA away for nothing only there.
If D12 is supposed to read the state of the switch, do pinMode(D12, INPUT_PULLUP) which means you will read HIGH, when switch is off and LOW when switch is on. And forget the 5 V link to the switch. It only shortcuts everything when the switch is on. INPUT_PULLUP does an internal pullup. Your 5 V link to the switch looks a bit like you're trying to do a pullup with that. But it's totally wrong as it is now.
So if you really have connected your gear as your schematics show, you have probably toasted your Arduino. Each led in the display draws probably too much current because of the missing resistors. Your switch shortcuts 5 V to GND.
Hey guys, I am now trying on an elegoo Uno R3 with a elegoo prototype shield breadboard expansion board module thingy, but I'm struggling a bit.
I have software to make and check circuits that I was trying to use, but I couldn't find the IC PCB pinout/layout ANYWHERE... I checked on their 163 page tutorial PDF and they didn't even mention the expansion module anywhere other than a picture in their "pieces in the kit" page.
I want to try to use this as a breadboard that requires soldering(like a perfboard) to save space and to avoid using wires. It seems, although, that I may have to use wires to connect the data pins to the main breadboard part anyways. Is this true? Is there any way around this? What should I do?
