Ist there an ufficial meccanical assembly tutorial / instruction to mount the UNO R4 to te yellow Plate?
Thanks
Uwe
Hi @uwefed.
I looked around and didn't find anything.
There are two separate mechanical aspects to consider:
- mounting the UNO R4 WiFi board to the clear plastic tray
- mounting the clear plastic board tray to the Modulino Base plate
I see from the Uno R4 auf Kunststoffbase befestigen topic that the latter is already understood and the question is actually about the former.
Although it is possible to use fasteners to secure the board to the tray, the tray is designed to obtain a mounting sufficient for general prototyping usage purely from a press fit. For this reason, Arduino does not providing any additional hardware for mounting the board to the tray.
These trays are shipped with several popular models of official Arduino boards (not the UNO R4 WiFi alone), which have sold in the many of thousands of units. We don't see a significant number of questions about additional mounting measures, so it does seem that the press fit is sufficient for the great majority of users. It is true that it would not be sufficient in an application where the board had to be mounted securely and was subjected to to significant vibrations, impact, or other forces. However, this would only occur in a final installation. In this context, the tray is completely superfluous and you would remove the board from the tray and mount the PCB directly in the installation.
If this truly is a situation where the board is not being held in the tray by the press fit alone, then this would be considered a defective product and eligible for replacement. The customer should contact the seller they purchased the kit from. If they purchased it from Arduino Store, they can use the contact form here:
https://www.arduino.cc/en/contact-us
In the alternative scenario where the press fit is working as expected, but we are the "belt and suspenders" type who simply wants a more permanent mounting, depending on the fasteners we obtain for the purpose we might encounter the unfortunate situation of the header for the SCL pin being too close to the mounting hole on the PCB to allow the screw to be inserted. The reason for this unfortunate design is that the original boards that established the "UNO" form factor did not have the dedicated SDA and SCL pins on the header (the I2C bus was instead only accessed via A4 and A5 pins on those boards). So the placement of the hole was reasonable at that time. When the new pins were added in the "R3" redesign, the locations of the mounting holes from the original design were maintained in order to retain compatibility with accessories designed for the original hole locations.
The holes on the PCB are sized for an M3 screw, which do typically have this problem. However, the holes on the tray are sized for an M2.5 screw and I find that the standard M2.5 machine screw design does not have this problem. So I only encounter this when working with boards without a tray. My go to solution in that case is to use nylon screws and simply clip off the edge of the screw head with a pair of flush cutters (though a knife will work as well if you don't have flush cutters at hand).
Mounting Steps
- Preparation: If your UNO board came with a small transparent plastic protector already attached to the bottom, remove it first.
- Orientation: Place the Arduino UNO R4 on the yellow base. The reset button should face away from the Arduino logo on the plate.
- Alignment: Align the three pre-drilled holes on the UNO with the corresponding holes on the yellow plate.
- Securing: Use three M3 bolts and nuts to secure the board.
- Crucial Warning: Do not insert a screw into the hole immediately next to the reset button, as this can cause physical interference or electrical shorts.
- Do not overtighten the bolts to avoid cracking the plastic or damaging the PCB.
- Breadboard: If your kit includes a breadboard, peel off the adhesive backing and stick it onto the remaining section of the yellow plate. Position it so the a1 pin is nearest to the UNO's reset button.
For third-party protective cases like the KKSB, specific instructions suggest using four pan-head screws for the board and countersunk screws for the lid
Sometimes the mechanical aspects of a project are more challenging than the electronics.
To finish up with something better than a breadboard protype can be as important as getting the code and components working.
For the problem outlined here, I would be reaching for my collection of metric taps and see if the mounting position could be tapped to M3. I prefer machine screws to self-tappers.
Another method I often use is to press fit a brass bush.
As a lifelong hoarder, nothing gets disposed of without being harvested for anything useful. A washing machine recently yielded a treasure trove of components. Hence a large collections of screws, nuts and washers, in BZP, stainless, brass, nylon. All head styles.
Enclosures can be a nightmare to source, especially as there seems to be no standard for height, width and depth. One person's width is another person's height. Hammond is often a first choice. Spreadsheet of all the dimensions 
Hi @robot_tech5443.
You seem to be thinking of a different product. This topic is about the Arduino Plug and Make Kit. The Modulino Base plate of the Plug and Make Kit is designed for the UNO R4 WiFi board to be mounted with the standard plastic tray:
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AKX00069_10.incontext_139a6cf2-36da-4806-8bc4-f5a178f85258_2400x1600.jpg by Arduino - CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped, border added)
Maybe you are thinking of the Arduino Starter Kit R4? The plastic base included in that kit is indeed designed for the board alone to be mounted directly:
for the plug and make kit, at the end of each project there is the assembly section where there are instructions on how to setup the yellow plate