I just note that the pin numbers are different
Bootloaders SHOULD be OK. The serial port is still the serial port.
Note however, that there's quite a lot of variation with the "onboard LED" that's supposed to blink when the bootloader starts. Even with the DIP, different boards connect the (if any) different places (Sanguino, Mighty, and Bobuino, are all different.) So you can have a bootloader that is probably working, and not see the comforting blinks...
westfw:
I just note that the pin numbers are different
Bootloaders SHOULD be OK. The serial port is still the serial port.
Note however, that there's quite a lot of variation with the "onboard LED" that's supposed to blink when the bootloader starts. Even with the DIP, different boards connect the (if any) different places (Sanguino, Mighty, and Bobuino, are all different.) So you can have a bootloader that is probably working, and not see the comforting blinks...
That doesn't worry me at all I had some off cuts of board and made a pile of data bus checkers 
Basically a board about 1"x2" with a 90 degree 8 way pin header on one end and a 2 pin header on the other. Each pin on the header goes through an SMD 1K resistor then an SMD LED and then all go to the 2 pin header which are connected together so I can plug it into 8 ports with a flying GND lead and test all 8 ports at the same time. By plugging in multiple boards and daisy chaining the GND pins I can check all 32 outputs of a 1284p etc quite easily...... Always like finding uses for offcuts.
3 in the hand but no joy, I tried a PM to Manicbug 2 days ago but no reply, even offered him a board for his troubles. He must be away or busy.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Got a reply from Manicbug, I'll send him out a ProMighty tomorrow hopefully we'll get the TQFN package boot loaded.
theloon:
Got a reply from Manicbug, I'll send him out a ProMighty tomorrow hopefully we'll get the TQFN package boot loaded.
Might have to have a play too. I take it it is just wired pin to pin with clock, clock caps, decoupling cap and reset resistor.
FWIW, my TQFP 1284P is working... blinking on demand, putting out serial0 messages, etc. I believe I used the Bahbots descriptor file (though with a different clock speed of 16MHz, not 18.x MHz) and the hex file from Mr. Sproul.
I am contemplating a loop-back test with Serial1 to see if it's behaving.
cowasaki:
theloon:
Got a reply from Manicbug, I'll send him out a ProMighty tomorrow hopefully we'll get the TQFN package boot loaded.Might have to have a play too. I take it it is just wired pin to pin with clock, clock caps, decoupling cap and reset resistor.
Yep just standard Arduino stuff except for LED is on pin B1 as not to take up a PWM pin.
My new design has reusable break off tabs for boot loader adapter and FTDI at opposite ends.
Constantin:
FWIW, my TQFP 1284P is working... blinking on demand, putting out serial0 messages, etc. I believe I used the Bahbots descriptor file (though with a different clock speed of 16MHz, not 18.x MHz) and the hex file from Mr. Sproul.I am contemplating a loop-back test with Serial1 to see if it's behaving.
Could you put something together for others here to try out?
theloon:
cowasaki:
theloon:
Got a reply from Manicbug, I'll send him out a ProMighty tomorrow hopefully we'll get the TQFN package boot loaded.Might have to have a play too. I take it it is just wired pin to pin with clock, clock caps, decoupling cap and reset resistor.
Yep just standard Arduino stuff except for LED is on pin B1 as not to take up a PWM pin.
My new design has reusable break off tabs for boot loader adapter and FTDI at opposite ends.
It'll be the same as one of the boards I've designed. It pushes into a 28 pin socket to replace a 328p and is electrically and program compatible, all you do is change the board name
I tried making it today but it is just toooooo intricate with such tiny tracks so going to have to send it out.
Not at all, my design brings out all the usable pins and includes optional external pull up resistors like the R3 ProMini by Sparkfun, but your design is a good idea also.
BTW how do you plan to connect all the additional tx/rx and input/output pins when confined to 28 pins?
theloon:
Not at all, my design brings out all the usable pins and includes optional external pull up resistors like the R3 ProMini by Sparkfun, but your design is a good idea also.
BTW how do you plan to connect all the additional tx/rx and input/output pins when confined to 28 pins?
What I mean is that electrically it is the same....
All the extra pins are simply wasted on this board, it is just a sketch space increase
I could take the extra pins to a header on the board but this is not for that reason.
cowasaki:
theloon:
Not at all, my design brings out all the usable pins and includes optional external pull up resistors like the R3 ProMini by Sparkfun, but your design is a good idea also.
BTW how do you plan to connect all the additional tx/rx and input/output pins when confined to 28 pins?What I mean is that electrically it is the same....
All the extra pins are simply wasted on this board, it is just a sketch space increase
I could take the extra pins to a header on the board but this is not for that reason.
That's what I thought but you know what they say about assuming. 
Sent out a ProMighty to Maniacbug now lets see how fast mail delivery from Alaska to Washington is.
woohoo! Got a copy of CrossRoads' basic duemilanove-style 1284 board working and uploading via ICSP (Olimex AVR-ISP500)... Don't own an FTDI cable, it's coming in the next Mouser order early this week, but I have this baby soldered up and clocked at 20MHz.
Managed to do a typical LED blink, and with the USART, 5V and GND pins hooked to my old Arduino NG (w/ Arduino IDE pointing to its serial port rather than the Olimex programmer), managed to get serial output from the 1284 running a sketch to read a bunch of DS18B20's I have.
Nice job! Post a pic when you get a chance.
Took a pic-
http://spirilis.net/junk/arduino/bobuino/dsc_4683.800.jpg (source high-res JPEG: http://spirilis.net/junk/arduino/bobuino/dsc_4683.jpg)
The LEDs I had in my stash were too big, so the TX LED ended up sticking above the headers... so I desoldered it, rather poorly (ended up destroying the pads on one side) but oh well, that's why I have 2 (and a set of smaller 3mm LEDs on the way, including some blue ones for a touch of "Pimp My Arduino")
The 3V3 regulator was another mishap... accidentally ordered the 5V variety, desoldered that much more successfully. Got 3.3V ones on the way along with the FTDI cable, LEDs, bunch of other junk too.
Here's the finished bobuino with my other blank board (and the debug shield for my car buffered-I2C/OneWire network up top)-
ended up destroying the pads on one side
I know most people here prefer PTH but when it comes to de-soldering SMDs are much easier.
Rob
It is as easy to desolder TH if you physically destroy (with a cutter) the component, leaving just the pins, then desolder those one by one. Wick and flux will also help.
Graynomad:
ended up destroying the pads on one side
I know most people here prefer PTH but when it comes to de-soldering SMDs are much easier.
Rob
I am starting to agree. Also SMD capacitors, resistors are so darned dirt cheap (and IMO 0603 parts are easier than hell once you've done a few, I don't even use my magnification visor anymore, just a steady hand)... I can appreciate CrossRoads's use of PTH parts to make the kit accessible to relative newcomers though. And for the price and effort (as you can see with mine I left out all the DC jack and regulation, just don't want/need it) his board is a wonderfully cost-effective way to roll a dev (or hobby-production use) board IMO.
I can appreciate CrossRoads's use of PTH parts to make the kit accessible to relative newcomers though.
Agreed, and to be sure a socketed DIP is a lot easier to replace than a TQFP when you blow it up
Rob
