Blending projector using two separate projectors

Dear community,

I’m a novice to code writing and Arduino, but I’m pointed in this direction for the following;

Create a seamless blending between two slides using two Rollei P350 AF slide projectors.

Using a single button remote I’d like it to work like this:

  • When both projectors are switched on, only one projection lamp (150W 24V Halogen) is lit, projecting the first slide.
  • When the button is pushed, the second projector lamp is gradually powered up, while the first lamp powers down.
  • When the first lamp is dark, a short pulse is generated to change to the next slide.
  • The next push on the button repeats the process; the first lamp is gradually powered up, while the second lamp powers down.
  • When the second lamp is dark, a short pulse is generated to change to the next slide.
  • Repeat this actions until all slides have been shown

Is this possible and how would I go about it?

I have an Arduino One, I can solder and assemble through hole circuitboards (SMD is a no go at 72), but if there are commercial circuitboards with the required Mosfets available, I’ll gladly use those.

Some suggestions and guidance would be very nice.

Regards, Jan.

Are these photos edge to edge, or overlaying? I am familiar with using several carousel slide projectors, but do not recall using dissolvers.

I will bet a lot of coffee you can buy that off the shelf. Either use google trying different search arguments until you get the hits you want or phone a store that still sells that kind of tech.

I just did a google search using this as the search and the first hit is exactly what you want

two slide projectors dissolve

Here is some of that first hit

There are tons of hits an this.

The Rollei are not the carousel type, but use straight 36 or 50 slides trays.

I’ve found another type of Kodak dissolving unit on the local eBay, way to expensive and I’m not sure if they are compatible with other brands. The one in the link runs on 110V, which would require a transformer to get it to work on the European 230V.

Regards, Jan.

Regards, Jan.

Almost any Arduino will be able to create the fade signals and pulses and time them as described.

The question is will those projectors allow themselves to be controlled by those signals from the Arduino? Without knowing that, we can't answer your question. This is the Arduino forum, not a slide projector forum and we can't be experts at everything!

Searching that model of projector on the web, I can see that they have a remote control that I assume allows changing the slide. But does it also allow the lamp brightness to be adjusted? I suspect not.

It's possible that an Arduino can mimic the remote control signals, assuming it uses standard TV-style IR communication.

How about simple mechanical shutters with a piece of cardboard or metal on a servo that turns 90degrees, edge on it lets all the light through blocking it blocks the edge say 1/4 of the field with a soft edge - that way you can overlap the LR images and blur the edges to blend into each other?

Also can you please explain what you mean by "edge blending" because reading your description, I don't get why you use the term "edge", and that's confusing.

That is good to hear.

The projectors are simple mechanical contraptions, with no electronics inside, my plan is to have the lamp wire exit the projector and add a dimmer function into that 24V AC line and feed it back to the lamp.

Switchin to the next slide is done by powering a 5V solinoid by predding the knob on the (wired) remote, hence my thought that Arduino can provide this fuction.

Would such a circuitboard provide the fade in/fade out function using signals Arduino?

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005009212812824.html?

Or is it only on/off? The picture showing the Arduino suggests a fade option.

Regards, Jan.

I tried a mechanical fading using flaps covering the lense, but the 150W creates a lot of heat and there’s a lot of light spilling between the flaps and the front of the lens, as it needs room to move to focus.

Also the slide sits quite long in front of the hot lamp, twice as long as normal, as it waits for the second projector to do it’s part. Slides without glass tend to deform when overheated. Needless to say, all my slides are glassless…

This did not work as desired.

Should the arduino option fail, I may have to revert to a mechanical solution.

Regards, Jan.

Hi Paul,

The word edge came up when I asked the computer to translate ‘overvloei projector’ into English:

The term "blend projector" (probably intended as a technique for seamlessly combining images) best translates into English as projection blending or edge blending projector. This refers to the process in which multiple projectors combine images into one seamless, large image.
Projector blending / Edge blending: The technical term for the process.
Seamless projection: Refers to the result (seamless display).

I only used the word, as I thought it might clarify the process, obviously it resulted in the opposite…

Sorry for that.

I’ll start brushing up on my codewriting, starting with simple switching between LEDs with a switch…

Regards, Jan.

I think that is for switching 120/240VAC, not for 24VDC.

150W at 24V is 6.25A.

I think something like this should be suitable

The 24V 150W halogen lamps are powered with AC. I’ll open a projector up and measure, to be sure.

The description says up to 220V. The picture of the Arduino makes me think it has a fade option.
Can the smaller board you show also be controlled with Arduino, providing a fade?

Regards, Jan.

I think that’s an implementation problem not a functional flaw,.

What is? Please elaborate, English is not my native language, I’m Dutch.

Regards, Jan.

AC Dimming with triacs requires zero-crossing control.

Just checked: on the lamp socket I measure 26,2V AC.

Regards, Jan.

Is it possible the circuitboard I linked to in post#9, has that on board? As it’s advertized for AC use.

Regards, Jan.

unlikely, as it requires extra circuitry to control the triac.

Sorry, but a question like that and others you have asked indicate a profound lack of knowledge on the subject matter.
The good news is I think it can be done by someone with enough knowledge and experience fairly easily but you are not there yet.
If you could post diagrams and photos so that we can get a better understanding of what you have to work with then maybe we can talk you through it. It may take several attempts at posting the photos and diagrams before we see what we need to see so be patient..