I agree... somewhat... If you are going "down" a slope, the mercury switch will give a false brakelight... however... unless your hill is forever long, without intersections, and you want to go the speed of light... my guess is you will be feathering the brake lever.
Again, I agree. The mercury switch would be tripping.
That must be side-to-side... or you are on Mars where gravity is not 1g. 25% is an "impossible" climb for an underpowered vehicle.
So, now that you have given the important information that you should have given in post #1, you see that your circumstances are FAR BEYOND a normal use. Scooters (statistically) are a low-power, low-speed, low-distance, low-terrain, vehicle. I was under that assumption until you did a truth dump. I'm out.
p.s. You have a cable-braking system. Your brake lever image is missing the brake cable (and a barrel adjuster). The wire is a typical reed-switch "sensor" (maybe "hall effect" if your wires have red, blk, yel). The sensor is hidden "under" the leaver body. If you pull the brake lever beyond its intended use, you will see a torroid (donut) neodymium magnet which activates the reed switch or hall sensor.
Trailer brake controllers do NOT suffer that problem. I suspect they are using accelerometers, I think I have one or more in my parts bins.
Uh...just out of curiosity, what do you mean
A barrel adjuster is used as a fine-adjustment (to a course-adjustment) to "tighten" your breaking. A course adjustment would be done when your brake lever pulls all the way to the handlebar. The pictures you show have a barrel adjuster on both ends of the brake housing/cable, but both act the same - as a fine-adjustment.
rly sry, but i dont understand many of the terms you've used. can you explain what you mean by "hall effect"?
also, i feel like this may be relevant to the topic... whenever i pull the scooter brake (it doesnt matter how hard the brake is pulled, the only thing affected by how hard it's pulled is the disc brake) , both the disc brake and the e-brake in the motor are working to slow down the scooter.
Hall effect is the electromagnetic effect of a magnet through an electric field. Magnetism and electricity are physically bonded (you will not have one without the other). See also "right hand rule."
That is the brake cable. The red part is the housing. The piece that you circled is the head of the brake cable that receives the force from the brake lever and transfers the force to the brake caliper (see your post #21, the black device) that holds the brake pads that will pinch the brake rotor (the silver circle with the holes in it).
There is no e-brake in your motor. The effect of magnets passing wire coils has a slight drag. There is no regeneration due to its lack of return (3%).
ok....the main issue is that i need the brake lights to activate whenever i pull the brake. as ive mentioned before, this wont be interfering with any electronics from the scooter itself. the mercury switch thing seemed like it might work, but the issue with that is that the lights might light up on slopes. is there anything else i could use, maybe something that measures the velocity of the scooter and sends a signal whenever the velocity drops towards 0?
Did you even try?
Use the pendulum style or the caravan/trailer style.
Put the mercury switch in a position/angle where a negative slope does not close the switch... between 0% to 4% slopes on normal roads, maybe 7% if in a hilly area. You will NOT be riding on 45% or even 30% slopes, ever. I also guarantee you will be feathering your brakes on any slope greater than 4%.
I believe a possible setup option is to use an IR beam sensor like this one:
And activate it with the remaining part of the brake cable (in red):
The sensor could be placed on the surfaces with blue arrows.
Like I said, I'm new to all of this stuff...should imply that I have absolutely nothing for materials just yet
Would you be able to send me a link to that sensor, plz?
This is one place that has it, but it´s a common sensor, thus easy to find.
It's commonly used to measure speed with a wheel, but you can use the beam interruption to detect the brake activation.
The beam break is a good idea. Also consider a reed switch: mount a magnet (green) on the cable (red), and as the cable is pulled, it passes (orange) a reed switch (white), opening or closing the reed switch and starting your lights animation.
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One more question, @Brazilino. I'm able to find sensors like the one from the link you've sent, but the majority of my results include boards with three pins instead of four. Is there a difference between the two? Here is an example.
Yup. The one of my link also has an analog output. For what you need, a digital output is enough. So you will be fine with the 3 pin model.
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What type of battery would be suggested to power the equipment for this project? I have approximately 200 LEDs, all rated for 5v, along with an ir speed sensor and a Nano
Is your scooter going to a carnival parade? 
If we´re talking about WS2812 kinda LEDs (presuming) and this number is correct, you´ll need something around 200x60mA = 12A to have a shining as the sun scooter. That is a heck of a battery...