I'm trying to rebuild the following circuit on a breadboard...
from this project:
I've attempted to build this (3) different ways, but each time, it doesn't work.
Can someone simplify this circuit for me? I'm just not understanding it.
I don't want to simplify it. It's correct as shown.
What did you do? Show us the three (3) different ways...
R1 allows the user to set the input level. C1 blocks the DC offset created by the voltage divider R2/R2 from the pot. The dividers purpose is to create a DC offset so that negative portions of the AC signal can be measured. C2 is probably both a bandwidth limiting and RF suppression filter.
I can appreciate you not wanting to simplify it for me, and I never said it was wrong.
I've tried recreating this circuit (3) times tonight and each time I made it differently, so I'm clearly not reading or understanding that circuit correctly. I need help looking at it a different way.
That's a completely useless description telling nothing, way too oftenly used.
Read the specs of the microphone. Most likely the output of the microphone is too low and needs amplification.
Helpers don't want to be cookied. Please extract the facts from that link and show them here.
I don't know what you're asking for? Are you able to help? If so, then please provide a sketch of a breadboard layout of the circuit above. I've tried and failed (3) times... And now I'm here asking for help.
Sorry. A link to the datasheet of the microphone.
Provided better information, I'm sure, yes.
Why? Reply #2 affirms Your design.
You have written it 3 times by now.
We try to make You improve Your original post, advice You to provide information that we ask for. Know that every helper, skilled and experienced, is a newbie to Your setup.
Maybe You want to give lessons for the helpers, how to help?
Yeah, it's not a microphone but rather an Anker soundsync A3352 Bluetooth receiver. It works loud and clear, I've verified on another device that I'm using. This isn't the issue.
All I'm asking for is someone else's interpretation of the above mentioned circuit in breadboard format. I'm clearly confused deciphering it myself as I've come up with multiple iterations that don't respond to the music.
If you're able to help, please provide a sketch of this circuit in breadboard friendly format, please.
What is the issue? What readings does the unknown code produce?
is all You tell. No information in those words.
What is the output from that equipment, in technical terms? Link to the datasheet please.
You already got one.
There ought to be some code reading that A0. Post that and explain "it doesn't work". It looks like all crystal balls are black for the helpers.
02:40 AM and high time to close the shop here.
So post a photo of the latest attempt. This will let us see what you are seeing.
The capacitor C1 should be reversed.
When you say "doesn't work" how are you testing this?
Do you have any reason to believe your pot or headphone jack connections are not per their spec?
@Railroader
Before you see my serial monitor output... don't you want to know if my circuit is correct??? I know I do. That's why I keep asking for help with another persons interpretation of the circuit in breadboard format.
I've just attempted another iteration of the circuit and I'm still unsure if its correct or not... but it's not responding to music. Here it is. If you know of an online breadboard circuit creator, please let me know and I'll gladly upload a better schematic. In the mean time, please accept these images...
I also don't think a data sheet exists for the Anker soundsync A3352 Bluetooth receiver - I can't find one.
Lastly, the serial output is outputting the following:
129 132 25 10 -4 -2 3 7
129 132 26 7 -2 -5 4 7
129 132 26 7 -3 -3 1 7
129 132 25 8 -3 -1 9 3
129 132 26 12 -1 -4 -1 5
129 132 26 7 0 -2 9 1
129 132 26 9 1 0 6 6
129 132 26 7 -5 -4 12 1
129 132 25 10 -5 -2 5 6
129 132 25 9 -1 0 4 7
129 132 24 9 -2 -2 4 4
@JohnRob
As requested, I've uploaded pics - see above.
How do I reverse the C1 capacitor. This doesn't make sense to me.
I'm testing by physical method - whether the relays respond or not.
The headphone jacks were salvaged from previous prototype projects that were known to work, so I don't suspect them of being out of spec.
What are you using for power? It looks like everything is powered off the Arduino. That is wrong. The Arduino is NOT a power supply. Use a real +5 or 3v3 supply and see if that helps. I can almost guarentee that you're overloading SOMETHING based in your pictures.
Are you asking if the circuit is valid?
No one judging that is going to do better with a breadboard layout type diagram. They are nearly universally derided by the heavies.
or
Are you having trouble wiring the circuit on a breadboarf?
a7
@madmark2150
Thanks for the feedback. I'm typically using a 12V DC power supply. In this instance, I was not. I just tried the 12V supply and no difference.
@LarryD
You're right, its not the correct capacitor. It should be a 106 but the closest that I had was a 104. I've ordered the 106, but awaiting delivery. In the meantime, I wanted to ensure my circuit layout was correct and I'd swap it later.
@alto777
Thanks for the follow up. I wasn't asking if the circuit was valid, I'm most certain it is valid. Rather, I was having trouble wiring the circuit on a breadboard and was asking for assistance.
That’s 100 times smaller 
Very unlikely that any signal will get thru that capacitor. 
The circuit appears okay but your wiring is very tight and it’s too difficult to know for sure.
Edit
Do not power the relay board from the Arduino.
1 Like
Thank you very much for verifying. I really appreciate that you took the time to look at it and comment. I really needed a second set of eyes on this.
Knowing this, I'll swap the 104 capacitor with the 106 once I receive it and have some confidence that the circuit should be correct.
Thanks again!
or
I have an opinion, I'd like to be more sure of it, please.
TIA
a7
I said:
“The circuit appears okay but your wiring is very tight and it’s too difficult to know for sure.”
Progress... got it working... kinda.
