I am a little bit confused. Going based off of the wring diagram in post 3, where would I put the 4 diodes now? If someone could make a diagram like in post 3 but with the 4 fly back diodes included I would greatly appreciate it. I really appreciate everyone of you that has helped me. It means a lot.
Never mind, I made the schematic. Thanks for your help, everyone! I will let you all know how it goes.
If someone could make a diagram like in post 3 but with the 4 fly back diodes included I would greatly appreciate it.
Flyback diodes are to protect mosfets, of which there are NONE in the figure in post 3 so your request makes no sense.
Remember this is all being controlled by a logic gate circuit? On one of my last threads we were talking about this circuit:
I was talking about my diy see saw switch... I just decided to go with a dpdt switch instead.
In the logic gate it has transistors and mosfets, so I want to protect those. Here is the schematic I came up with that has the diodes connected to the 6 pins of the dpdt switch:
Oops. I posted the schematic that was designed incorrectly. Sorry about that...
Here is the newest one:
EDIT: Basically it is just a set of conditions that you must achieve to get a 1 on the output. I made a video about this on my channel... I hope the video isn't too bad. How to Make a Not Gate Go Into An And Gate (Logic Gates With Transistors) - YouTube
EDIT2: I also gave you guys a shout out at 7:03 
Better, best if Q4 was a MOSFET.
Please explain how S11-S14 are used again.
Edit
Just seen your video.
Sounds like you are youngish.
Good work, +1.
OP, it is test time.
What does this cct. do ?
Correction
Thanks for the karma! Also, I am not sure what cct. means... sorry. Wait is that circuit like my circuit but super simplified? Im pretty sure that is exactly what that is. Dang! Also q4 is the rfp30n06le (N channel Logic Level Mosfet) but I wasnt sure how to make that into the schematic. I am about to go test your schematic. I cant believe you simplified it so much!
Ok thanks I will let you know how it goes.
RFP30N06LE looks like this is a good choice.
D1 is not needed in the schematic, replace with a wire.
Edit:
Come to think about it D6 can be replaced with a wire too.
Was trying to introduce you to diode logic gates (long long time ago) but in this application, no diode gates are needed.
There we go! The led wasnt very bright at first, but I took out D1 and let me tell you, it works great, and you are a literal genius. I spent a long time thinking and stressing over how to make it happen, but yours is so simple and efficient, and I cant thank you enough.
- MILLION
Also I just saw your edit, so I will take out D6
K I just took it out and it still works. I literally cant believe that mine used SO MANY components, and yours uses basically 3! Thank you so much, man. I appreciate it so much. I wish I can be as smart as you some day.
Smart, that's questionable, experienced 45+years ;).
"The led wasn't very bright at first,"
What LED ?
Oh, forgot to mention that. I used an led for a test. I have only a few months of experience. I am still in shock of how simple it is. Thank you so much for helping me. I am making a project for my teacher, and this is a big part of it. You made my month!
Sounds like this could be a combination lock 
Edit.
Make sure you observe the voltage maximum of your motor.
You guessed it! The big hole to the right is where I will put a cover that has the dpdt switch mounted to it.
Rapid80:
Ya, I am leaning away from using dpdt switches. In that case, does anyone know a good h bridge circuit using 2 momentary push buttons that wont short circuit the power supply if they are both pushed?
After several threads over several forums if memory serves me right this is all about an unmanned underwater project with 3 motors involved? Do you have a link to the motors? Before suggesting a H Bridge module the motor voltage and current needs known. I know 12 volts but the current is?
Ron
This is about a digital clock that also has a storage area in the back that uses 1 motor and will hopefully never be underwater...
Also I am using a usb supply, so 5v. I dont know the exact motor because I salvaged it from somewhere, but it looks like this https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-DC-3V-Arduino-EK1291x10/dp/B015PQW8AS/ref=sr_1_27?dchild=1&keywords=dc+motor&qid=1589059912&sr=8-27
But it has 2 poles that stick out of it, and not 1. I also dont know the exact voltage of it, and I assume that since it wont be working very hard at all, it can only draw up to 1.5 amps. I also dont know the rpm. I am lacking a lot of information.
