Hello. I am implementing Arduino in my car. But I have a small problem.
Turns out the Arduino board burned out, because there was a voltage spike from 5v to 13v. I was looking for a solution, and I found that this schematic could help me, I want to know if I am correct.
Using a zener diode and a resistor on the digital input of arduino
Thank you very much for your help
Your possible solution won't provide enough current.
Something like this which is non-adjustable 5V output might be a better choice as you could take advantage of UNO's built in 500mA polyfuse
If that spike was strong enough to burn your board then you should kill the spike on its origin. Is it the voltage regulator or some other EMP generator?
If the 5V is not required elsewhere then I'd use a regulator down to 7V and let the rest do the Uno on-board regulator.
1k in the power supply line won't work. It drops 5V already at 5mA supply current.
The DC-DC converter should work. Did you buy from a reputable supplier? Is the DC-DC converter still working or did it short-out and it's no just passing-through the voltage?
The 2nd circuit is OK for a data or analog input but no-good for power. It will work if you replace the resistor with a fuse but then the fuse will blow when you get a spike.
Mabe something else fried your Arduino?
LM2596 DC-DC worked very well, it powered the Arduino, the DFPlayermini and a Bluetooth module HC-06, it worked 20 days, and when I checked why it didn't work anymore, everything was burnt, except the LM2596 DC-DC, which still converted the 12v - 13v from the car to 5v.
I tried the LM2596 DC-DC, with another Arduino and the same components, and none of them worked, so I powered the Arduino through the USB port from the laptop, and everything worked correctly, but with LM2596 DC-DC nothing works, despite what does the voltage conversion.
So it would be better to use this Amazon product, instead of the LM2596 DC-DC?, to power the Arduino and other sensors through the USB port of the controller, correct?
Haven't used either product before, but what I don't like about the LM2596 DC-DC is that the output is adjustable over a large voltage range (Output: DC 1.5V-35V) so care should be taken to have the correct voltage adjustment. Lots of 1-star complaints mainly about the poor quality potentiometer.
I think any fixed 5VDC output converter is safer in that regard and connecting through the UNO's USB port will add polyfuse protection.
Car electronics require special care against spikes on the 12V line. It's easy to burn unprotected circuits of any type when driving the car.
What i do for automotive use is that i start with a diode on both poles, to first of all prevent any reverse current, voltage spikes in the opposite direction, and it doesn't hurt to actually put a fly-back as well.
Then between those diodes, i put a sizable capacitor, about 100uF usually works, to catch any spikes, as well as drop-outs. Make sure that this capacitor will be of at least 35v spec. This is the basis for the conversion from 12v to 5v. I normally just use a linear regulator, but a buck converter is more efficient of course. If you are going to use a lot of power, you should probably increase the size of the input capacitor, and . Then after the conversion to 5v, again another capacitor.
I have this type of setup in an old car, with a bad alternator, and it hold-up just fine.
Just a capacitor will filter out most of the spikes, but it is most likely the reverse voltage that is a real killer for the MCU.
Then there is the matter of the GPIO pins. You should always fully opto-isolate them from the cars power circuit.
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