After researching the DUE and discovered the two DACs only support 0.55v to 2.75v, I decided to stick with my UNO R3 and use PWM output to try to manage 0-5V.
I'm a little unclear on what I need to make this happen, read several options but they seem overly complex ... is there a simple solution?
"A toggle switch selects between two methods of chiller control: 0-5V input signal or manual speed knob. Wire terminals are readily accessed if an alternative control scheme is desired."
A low-pass filter can convert the PWM to variable DC. The default PWM frequency is around 500Hz so you'll need to filter that out and/or you can increase the PWM frequency. It's kind of a crude solution but if it works for you it's easy.
You do need a "light load" (high resistance, low current) because the filter resistor makes a voltage divider with the load. Or you could add a buffer amplifier, but if you're going to do that you're better-off going-back to the Due and using an amplifying amplifier!
I read the default output frequency is 490 (as DVDdoug mentioned).
However I believe it can be upped to 1000 Hz.
If you use 50k and 1µf your ripple will be pretty low. This assumes the 0 - 5 input on your cooler has a high input impedance.
For this same level of filtering you can change the R and C if you keep R * C = constant
So you could use 10k and 5µF. The values are not so critical , a 4.7µF would probably indistinguishable.
I don't think using the UNO PWM is going to work ... the Koolance 0-5V seems to want analog ... even when using 255 I can hear the Koolance oscillating ... it's going to need analog power.
I put a DC to DC converter (no arduino) to the chiller and varied it's output from 0-5V and it worked perfectly.
Any DC to DC converts that support control via standard PWM?
"Voltage was stable".... the fact the Koolance was whistling - suggests the voltage wasn't... it was still ticking hi then lo - in time with the PWM output. Buffering needed.
Analog means a scalar voltage maintained somewhere between 0 and 5V as needed, not wobbling around for any reason. Digital means a binary state either 0V or +Vcc - possibly alternating (PWM or a tone)
Yes, or there was parasitical feedback from the device into the relatively high DC impedance in the low pass filter circuit. Sometimes known as, "motorboating". Same conclusion - buffering needed.