And the worst way for brightness, which is then divided over the number of digits.
Large common anode digits and TPIC shift registers is the preferred way.
As @cedarlakeinstruments said, go to Sparkfun.com and search for large display drivers.
Leo..
Thank you for your suggestion. Getting the drivers from this site would be very nice, but sadly I'm located in Europe so it's not really an option for me.
Is the TPIC6A596 for anode and MIC5891 for cathode driver is suitible for these displays right?
Forget about common cathode displays an forget about matrixing.
Just use one TPIC chip per digit, and daisy-chain.
Use a 100n decoupling cap on each TPIC, and a current limiting resistor for each segment.
Or use the Sparkfun breakout boards, which have these parts already fitted.
The TPIC6B595 is the go-to chip for this, if you want to make your own.
Or the TPIC6C596 if you want an smd footprint.
Leo..
If you use the decimal point the current limit resistor should be twice what the segment ones are for the displays you listed. They have 2 LEDs in series for the DP and 4 for the segments, so the DP will have half the voltage drop of the segments.
Thanks for pointing out, I forgot the resistors on the segments. What value should I use on the segment's current limiting resistors?
I would rather stick to Wawas recommendation with the TPICB595. Checking on the LED1642GW site I noticed its can only output 40mA max. Which I dont think is enough for my display choice.
Omit the anode resistors - you do the current limiting on the segments. The value for the segments would be (12V - LED segment V)/segment current. For example the SA40-10 SRWA
(12-10)/.02 = 100 ohms for segments and (12-5)/.02 = 350 for the DP
This assumes a max segment LED voltage of 10V and DP voltage of 5V , for the typical values (8 and 4).
(12-8)/.02 = 200 ohms and (12-4)/.02 = 400 ohms.
I would use 150 for the segments - that would give 20 to 26 ma for segment current.
Resistor value depends on the display you use. You linked to digits with strings of four LEDs in post#1. LED Vf also depends on the colour of the LEDs. There is a typical Vf table in the datasheet on that page. If you know total Vf and project supply voltage, then you should be able to calculate resistor value yourself.
Leo..
Dear everyone, I updated the schematic with your very helpful inputs.
I also changed the 12V DC input to a barrel jack, which is also connected to the VIN pin of the Arduino. Hope it`s the correct way to do it.
I planning to use a 12V\3A DC power adapter as the power source.
Can you please take a final look on it, if there is anything else I should add or change to it?