Me and a friend are tying to make a little game. for this we need a grid of 10x10 RGB leds. Before we make the 10x10 grid we like to make sure we understand the coding and wiring of an matrix grid.
Right now we now how to use an TLC5940NT and connect it to the Arduino and with the use of 4 rgb directly connected to the chip and 4 buttons connected to the Arduino we can chance the colors of the leds.
Right now we are trying to get the matrix 4x4 (green leds) working. As far as we are now we can get a whole row let up.. not separately leds yet.
Our question is:
Do we need more than a TLC5940NT and 4x4 matrix or not?
Perhaps with this thread we can solve some thing out and get on with the project.
knut_ny:
TLC5940NT can control the 4 by 4 matrix (single color leds).
U'll need a lot of chips and wire to hook this up..
can you tell me an code to set the led on and of separately or each other + how the wiring has to be done for this?
What you mean by "a lot of chips"?
knut_ny:
I would think of a led strip: 1m 144 LED,WS2812B
This would make a nice 12 by 12.. controlled by a single i/o-pin
Im only doing this right now to understand the code and wiring. ill need to make 4 times an 10x10 RGB grid. planning to make them from single led rgb 5mm and make a matrix grid out of them.
At this point i got the matrix running.. i connected all the RGB pins of the led to the TLC5940NT. and the power pin of the led directly into the + 5V on adruino.
now i can set a row on and of..
i need to set 1 led on and of and not a complete row.. im trying to figure out how to do so. can you help me with this?
I got RGB LED Diodes 5mm Diffused Common Anode 4 pin
my final product is got to be a a 10x10 grid of rob leds. by pressing a button (also 10x10 grid) the matching number of led need to lid up in the color i set in the code.
I guess i need to link those Anode to an 74HC595 instead of directly into the 5V if i want to control a single led of the 10x10 matrix. i that right? or do i need to hook all wires (red, green, blue and Anode) to the 74HC595?
Bart007:
I guess i need to link those Anode to an 74HC595 instead of directly into the 5V if i want to control a single led of the 10x10 matrix. i that right? or do i need to hook all wires (red, green, blue and Anode) to the 74HC595?
Have you decided to use the 74HC595 instead?
If you have common anode RGB LEDs as you stated above, the cathode pins go to the 74HC595 and the anodes are all connected together to 5V. You'll need resistors for each of the cathode pins as well.
You can control 8 pins per 74HC595, so you can control two full RGB LEDs plus 2/3 of another.
ieee488:
Have you decided to use the 74HC595 instead?
In fact im not sure what to use. Let me tell a bit of the project I'm working on to make things more simple.
Im making the game Battleship. Therefore I need 4 grids of 10x10 LED. On the grid I need 4 colors: Dark Blue, Light Blue, Red and White.
Beside those LED I got buttons as well to push (fire) and put down ships (reed switch with magnets).
Right now I'm working on the 10x10 grid and I need to have full control of a single led. In the attached file you can see how I'm going to make the grid.
So my question would be:
How to make a 10x10 grid of 100 RGB Led Common Anode so I can have full control of a single RGB Led.
OK, knowing it is "Battleship" is an important part of the description. It also tells us you want two of the arrays.
Requiring light blue (which is desaturated) and white is important to know.
From a practical viewpoint, using WS2812 LEDs would be a very sensible approach. I just bought 50 for about $7.50 (AUS) from eBay. Even then they will require wiring, much easier to buy bands of 100 or so and cut them into 10 strips of 10 and lay them out in your matrix.
Paul__B:
From a practical viewpoint, using WS2812 LEDs would be a very sensible approach.
This is 100% true, only the thing is I really like to make it with those single RGB Led's. I made a installation once with the WS2801 and right now I'm trting to make a grid with the single RGB Led. Just so I can learn how to do this
So wire them up as a multiplexed matrix.
Three open drain shift register (TPIC6C595 or TPIC6B595) to sink current from 24 columns (R-G-B x 8 = 24), P-channel MOSFET or PNP transistor to source current to 1 row at a time.
Send column and enable a row every 2.5-3mS for flicker free refresh rate.
This shows part of the column drive and part of the row drive.
CrossRoads:
So wire them up as a multiplexed matrix.
Three open drain shift register (TPIC6C595 or TPIC6B595) to sink current from 24 columns (R-G-B x 8 = 24), P-channel MOSFET or PNP transistor to source current to 1 row at a time.
Send column and enable a row every 2.5-3mS for flicker free refresh rate.
This shows part of the column drive and part of the row drive.
Since im kinda new with the names like TPIC6C595 or TPIC6B595 MOSFET or PNP transistor ill have an look on the internet to find out what it means.
Thanks all for the feedback, ill go try some things out on the breadboard.
Any other help, feedback and or other things are always welcome
If you used an Arduino Mega, you could drive your leds using 40 of its digital outputs and 10 npn transistors such as bc337. You would also need 30 series resistors. No extra chips.
Hmm. your project seems to be growing exponentially! Now it is up to 1,200 leds and 400 or 800 switches. By this time tomorrow it vill become self avare and launch its missiles against the Russians...
PaulRB:
Hmm. your project seems to be growing exponentially! Now it is up to 1,200 leds and 400 or 800 switches. By this time tomorrow it vill become self avare and launch its missiles against the Russians...
10×10 = 100 led
4 grid = 400 led
10x10 = 100 buttons
4 grid = 400 buttons
Right now im working on the 8x8 grid to control a single led. As from there ill make the next step
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