LED added:
1x Atmega1284P-AU, 556-ATMEGA1284P-AU
1x 16 MHz xtal/H49S, 815-ABL-16-B2
1x 10K 0805/1220 size resistors, 1/10W, 754-RR1220P-103D
6x 0805/2012 size 100nF capacitors, 80-C0805C104K4R
2x 0805/2012 size 22 pf capacitors, 80-C0805C220J5G
1x size 0805/2012 10uF capacitor, 603-CC805KKX5R6BB106
2x size 1206 chip LED, green, 2.6V, 720-LGN971-KN-1 >> 220 ohm for ~10mA POWER, ACTIVITY
1x size 1206 chip LED, yellow, 2.6V, 720-LYN971-HL-1 >> 220 ohm for ~10mA - TX
3x 220 ohm 0805/1220 size resistors for LEDs, 1/10W, 754-RR1220P-221D
1x size 1206 chip LED, red, 1.8V, 720-LHN974-KN-1 >> 180 ohm for ~20mA (lower mcD) - RX
1x 180 ohm 0805/1220 size resistors for LEDs, 1/10W, 754-RR1220P-181D
1x size SOD123 diode,771-BAT54H-T/R
1x size 4.5mm reset switch, 612-TL3315NF250Q
0.1" pitch headers as your project requires - single row, double row, straight, right angle, male/female, etc.
1x6 0.1" pitch male pins for FTDI header
2x3 0.1" pitch male pins for ICSP header
This looks like something I want 
A bit of SMD self-assembly will be fun, too!
The board looks excellent! The boards look like they should be useful for lots of designs.
You have done so many boards that you need your own logo to go with your designs, I was thinking of a crossroads sign but, could not find one that fits.
Any suggestions for mating boards?
If you are asking for boards that could go with this one, I think a regulator board would be nice. I would like a board that could be built as a 2 stage board so, that I could put 16volts to it or as little as 7. I imagine 2 regulators and a jumper to decide if I need both stages. A switching supply would be better but, I am guessing more complex. I would like to have enough current ability to run the 1284 to it's current limit plus a LCD screen like a 4*16 character.
Boards are ordered!
cyclegadget:
The board looks excellent! The boards look like they should be useful for lots of designs.You have done so many boards that you need your own logo to go with your designs, I was thinking of a crossroads sign but, could not find one that fits.
Any suggestions for mating boards?
If you are asking for boards that could go with this one, I think a regulator board would be nice. I would like a board that could be built as a 2 stage board so, that I could put 16volts to it or as little as 7. I imagine 2 regulators and a jumper to decide if I need both stages. A switching supply would be better but, I am guessing more complex. I would like to have enough current ability to run the 1284 to it's current limit plus a LCD screen like a 4*16 character.
Btw switching regulators don't have to be complex--these guys pulled off a nice product:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata-Power-Solutions/OKI-78SR-5-15-W36-C/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtwaiKVUtQsNemMZL4TplJBqOl7845nWHA%3D
Same pinout as the LM7805, takes 7-36V input. Using one right now in my wife's car (powering several gadgets with power+data sent over CAT5 cable), quiescent current of 5mA.
@spirilis- Good find! 1.5A in such a small package is impressive! I think I will throw one in on my next order.
@CrossRoads- All I can say is whoo hoo, I love soldering up new boards and it should be fun!
Sorry to keep bugging you sir. but. XD
What do I need to get to program these hardware wise?
I have an adafruit AVRisp but have read rumors of not being able to program larger chips with it. Will this work or what programmer would you recommend?
I have several arduino 328's if that might work?
copiertalk:
Sorry to keep bugging you sir. but. XDWhat do I need to get to program these hardware wise?
I have an adafruit AVRisp but have read rumors of not being able to program larger chips with it. Will this work or what programmer would you recommend?
I have several arduino 328's if that might work?
328's work fine as arduino as ISP with the 1284 in my experience.
I use an AVR ISP MKii myself, no messing around with all the wires going to an Arduino.
Could also use NickGammon's bootloader, he's done some nice work here
..why are you using ~250ohm resistors for the LEDs? I used that values in mid eighties when the LEDs required 20mA in order to lit. Most LEDs I've got today lit beautifully with 2k7.. 
PS: I've measured few LEDs and they lit from 150uA in the way it was acceptable for me
I did the math for 10mA and 220 is what came out.
(5V - 2.6)/.01 = 240 for example. 220's were shown as in stock, 240/250 were not.
Merely a suggestion, feel free to suggest others.
I think what pito is suggesting is that the LEDs light up reasonably well even at much lower currents. For example, the UNO is using a 1k resistor for the green LED, which means a current of 3mA ((5V - 1.6V)/1k).
I don't have much experience with these chip LEDs. They had pretty low mcd ratings, so I was thinking more current flow to make them brighter.
10mA seemed like a decent compromise. I am not hard over on any particular current flow, nor am I supplying the parts. If you'd like to use less based on experience with any particular part, I don't have any problems with that. Open source, right? Build it up as your project needs demand.
Would you sell them with all the parts in a make it yourself kit?
if so then I would be interested in 10 or so,
I fear the shipping to europe will make them pricey though,
..10mA current into a LED is wasting the Earth energy resources
Take few LEDS w/ varoius colors, and try 10k, 3k6, 2k7, 1k5 resistors, how it lits. For indication purposes it is enough.. You don not want to burn more energy in one LED as in the MCU@16MHz, do you? 
PS: I am using 3k6 with my designs - the other advantage is the pin is not loaded too much, so it is basically a "pull-up" only.. Few days back I measured how the leds in a 8x8 red matrix lit, and a led required 10k resistor from 3v3 in order to lit normally..of course the resistor will be smaller when muxed..
p.
Yes, I could do that. They are small and the parts are light. USPS flat rate box to Europe is ~$13USD I think.
Will need to look into some ESD envelopes for re-bundling pieces too.
Do you need a '1284 stencil too?
http://www.proto-advantage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=2220108
What about headers? Male? Female? Straight? Right Angle? Single row? Dual row?
@pito,
I guess I'll have to get some of these chip LEDs ordered and try that out.
hi
I guess the stencil is for tinning the pads right ? i dont think that i will need that, I have done some chip replacement in the past with no fancy tools, i should be okay,
If you can get a price for me then i will speak to the boss about it, im working on an arduino based board to print voltage out to an lcd and control a fan based on temp,
we will be producing quite a few once the design is finalised, so I might be in for more in the future,
right angle headers would be best, and being novice i dont know what single and double row headers means, but i would want access to all of the pins available,
The stencil is for applying solder paste, not tinning. It is pretty easy to solder the low pin count SMD devices, but TQFP devices are a bit harder, though not impossible. Solder paste and a stencil make the process quite a bit easier.
@spruce_m00se,
If you look at the layout, I added a bunch of extra grounds around the board so that pins could easily connect to something and have a convenient ground to connect to as well. The double row header makes those grounds available.
This is the kind of part, one of the clearer pictures I could find.
I would ship the 72 or 80 pin strip versions of these, you would install the number of pins you needed. Or all of them. (2 each 2x9, 2x10).
I guess 80 pin strips would make the most sense, 1 strip would populate 2 boards.
Nice design there CrossRoads. I'd like to get in for half a dozen boards if possible.