As a fan of making my own PCB's I want to give a try to make my own full compact PCB instead
of using small circuit modules soldering above another circuit and making a burger town.
Looking thru the datasheet of MPU6050 I found this diagram
We can see there is not as in the datasheet.
Because I want to use only the SCL,SDA, GND and VCC I paid attention at them :
In the datasheet we got nothing connected at the scl and sda pins, in the module there is 2
resistors probably for pullup resistors if im not wrong
we see a 2.2nF capacitor connected at the pin 20 CPOUT what is that for? probably i can read in the datasheet you may say..
Now my point of this story is what's the minimum components i can use to get data from the MPU?
SCL _ Pullup resistor
SDA _ ( pullup resistor really needed if I use only MPU6050 in the I2C ?)
GND _ why we need so much caps on the GND pins ?
VCC _ (Only 1 VDD connected? )
and last question which i searched and didn't found.
Is there a bigger version of MPU6050? cause there is no out pins at all and I don't have a
heat gun station yet.
If you're not sure, then follow the datasheet as closely as you can. If they show a "suggested layout" with actual traces, then copy that too.
If you don't plan to use INT or some other features of the chip, then follow the datasheet's recommendation on grounding those pins or leaving them unconnected.
Obviously the extra components on the photographed board are for operating the 3.3V device on 5V. The datasheet won't tell you how to do that.
You really need a solder stencil to solder that device. I could not imagine placing solder by hand for that. How you heat the board after that is not important but I use a calibrated frypan on the kitchen stove.
I have soldered a few mpu-6050s I have had success with just running a fine soldering tip around the pads with a nice ball of solder and lots of flux. Since the pad doesn't actually connect to anything this method seems to work just fine. Making the pads a little longer helps a lot.
Also had success with tinning the pads on the bottom of the mpu putting on the PCB with flux and heating from the bottom untill it slides in place.
I use four caps minimum and two pullups on the i2c lines. One cap for its internal voltage regulator output one for charge pump output, two for the mpu power decoupling. Make sure you follow the data sheet precisely, don't run any traces under the chip.
Yea found the typical/minimum operating circuit.
I will follow this but my PCB skills are not so good to create homemade circuits with 0.1mm pads
the only way I'm thinking is to design the PCB and give order from china and after that assemble
them at home, cause it's really easy to solder smd components with a perfect solder mask.
I'm sure the Chinese boards are good. For a slightly faster turnaround but likely more cost, find someone local. OSHPark is based in Oregon USA and their PCBs are excellent. If you're anywhere west of the Mississippi, they can get a board to you very quickly.
Once you start looking, you will find someone near you. The real commercial services tend to be expensive but they usually have some deals available for small boards only a couple of square inches which are good for Arduino stuff.
Well sadly I'm not in the USA and sadly again I'm a cheap ass, I found a website from
china they create multiple layers PCB's, the cheapest is 100x100mm 2 layers, solder mask, vias,..etc
and not 1 not 2 not 3 but 10x PCB's with 100x100mm dimensions 10$ free shipping.
That's the best deal of the century and ofc on that 100x100mm pcb you can make hundreds of smaller
circuits.
I'm not a real fun to order PCB's but my skills are good enough but my tools are not good to
create small circuits for smd components.
I use either elecrow, pcbway or dirty PCBs. They always send more than ten boards. Last order I managed to fit 10 circuits on the 10x10cm square and got 14 boards so 140 circuits (of which I am only ever going to use maybe 10).
Just as a side note, I use a seperate 3.3v regulator for the mpu-6050, it's very sensitive to power line noise. Remember to check whether you need to level shift if you are using a 5v Arduino. I am not sure off the top of my head if the i2c is 5v tolerant. I use it with 3.3v processors.
I have never used solder paste with it. The pins are also exposed from sides of the package so soldering by hand is not that hard.
Game a look to all 3 website you gave: elecrow: expensive pcbway: Cheap (the one i was talking about) I never gave PCB order but I will sure try in the next months
to design something and give order. dirty PCBs: expensive compared to others.
Looks like the best one is pcbway.
I would never try to solder a such smd chip without soldering mask, it's just crazy
Without soldering mask, the solder runs away in the traces and makes a mess.
Domino60:
I would never try to solder a such smd chip without soldering mask, it's just crazy
Without soldering mask, the solder runs away in the traces and makes a mess.
LOTS of flux!!!
Here's a board from pcbway, Everything here was soldered by hand, no stencil nor paste.
Nice PCB, looks like u got good soldering iron with a nice thin tip, I would never solder such
small mpu6050 chip with my 2+mm tip
Soldering mask helps a lot.
If you are familiar with discord, here is a link you can join a 24/7 arduino chat, talk with me or other
people who are interested in such things.
It's still on growing side so no big activity. : D
I'm using a MT100 gas soldering iron, heating up fast and does great job, had problems in the past with
electric soldering irons and threw them away and took a gas one till I collect some money and get
a good soldering station.
Domino60:
Nice PCB, looks like u got good soldering iron with a nice thin tip, I would never solder such
small mpu6050 chip with my 2+mm tip
Soldering mask helps a lot.
A good tip and good iron make a big difference, agreed about the mask. I don't know if I would attempt to hand solder these chips on a diy board without a mask.
well my own way to define chips.
