Photodiodes not sensitiv enough / How to amplify?

  1. Irrelevant to the application
  2. Did you remove the filter? You should.

You seem to be just shooting in the dark and hoping to hit something. Go through a list of photodiode specifications and pick some that fit your requirements. Then apply using a circuit appropriate for that diode. The manufacturer data sheet will show that.
Paul

But with flash, no? :slight_smile:
image
(Peter Sellers - "Shot in the Dark", 1964)

1 Like

Yes, I missed that possibility!
Paul

I already know that my circuit is the worst you could probably do.
The measurements i get with it with 100k anyway are really so near to what the measurements should be that i could actually work with that.
Just the light source im using for that now is so damm bright that it burns in the eyes ( big cob led plate) this generates a lot of heat and also i would need more sensitvity as i would need to have a lens on a camera and measure the time the automatic of the camera made at a given luminance.
So right know i can measure the shuttertime at 3 points and the time needed for each curtain to travel the 35mm film plane but with an extreme bright light and without a lens on the camera so i could adjust the shutter but not the exposure automatic @aarg

This is not about critique. It's about having sufficient information to help you. It's quite possible that your entire experimental setup is basically okay, except for some minor detail. But relying on your verbal descriptions will not get us to a solution.

You're a photographer, right? Can you not show us a picture or two? :slight_smile:



Now the code

T1 T2 T3 are the shuttertime at the first point the second and the last so i can see how the exposure time changes on each point.
V1 is the opening curtain run time and v2 the closing curtain run time.
here i measured the 1/2000 of the camera multiple times.
the the time should be ideally 0.49 milliseconds and is ok from 0.3 to 0.75.
the curtain run times should 10.9 ms but that curtains times measured are still realistic as the curtains loose tension over time and are usually to slow

Please post the code, in code tags. Also a real wiring diagram.

 if (timingFlag == false && digitalRead(diode1) == LOW ) {
    Start1 = micros();
    timingFlag = true;
  }
  if (timingFlag == true && digitalRead(diode1) == HIGH ) {
    Stop1 = micros();
    timingFlag = false;
  }

the code really doesnt seem to make any problems

That is not the code, that is a tiny snippet of what you have. Also doubtful, since you can't really be sure whether the inaccuracy is in software or hardware. You haven't performed any decisive tests to determine that yet.

Have you connected your setup to a calibrated pulse generator?

is there a good generator for the diagram somewhere ?

I use paper and pencil.

It really took me days to figure out how to get the code right.
As there is someone out there making shuttertesters arduino based which he sells and they just display absolutely bullshit i would like to know who has access to my code as i dont want anyone using it commercially. i can send you the complete code privately

i can do that

I don't play that way. It's not fair to other users of the forum who might benefit from a solution. If you don't want people to use your software commercially, you can attach a freeware licence.

Assuming that it is right.

how can i attach the freeware license ?
i dont have any problems with other people building their on tester as keeping the old cameras alive is more my sort of thinking.
and as more people have access so better

Just insert the whole thing as a comment at the start of your code. There are different licenses so you should check out a few... notice that many Arduino libraries use them. Thus there is probably already one or many on your machine.