So i had a a broken Arduino (original) that its comm. chip was broken so i took out the 328pu and bought a prolific pl2303 to program it but for some reason there's no dang DTR/RST/RTS pin and when i press the reset button myself, it doesn't work either it just ives stk500: 1 out of 10 resp 0x20 or sum, so what's the problem?
You must get the timing right. I guess it takes lots of patience and practice.
let me send you link Prolific PL2303 USB-TTL Seri Dönüştürücü Kartı Satın Al | Robotistan
i really couldn't get the reset to work properly, i put 10k resistor from reset pin to vcc and there's a button not connected to pulldown resistor.
Missed that.
What did you do with it? Build the complete circuit around it including crystal, decoupling and so on?
i built the complete circuit with 16mhz crystal with 10k resistor to high on the rst pin and tx of the programmer to rx of the chip vice versa and crystal has 22pf caps to ground.
Do you have an L-LED connected? If so, does it flash quickly a few times after you tap the reset button?
If not, the 328P has lost its boot loader or is damaged.
You need a programmer with DTR.
It's almost impossible to do the reset manually during an upload.
It looks like DTR is available on/from the IC. Perhaps you could route it out. It's a Fine-pitch job for sure.
Your module model does not have DTR/RTS pins available externally,
but if you are skilled you can connect wires to the IC pins.
See the drawing and description of the IC pins.
DTR pin 2
RTS pin 3
it goes low then high.
no way, my hands are too big and a bit shaky
I can not stand the Prolific programmer. Every time Windows does an update, the Prolific driver gets thrown out. Installing the Prolific driver is (easy, but) nuts, too. It requires Win10 or newer OS to run, but must be installed in Win7 Admin mode (because it does not function on Win7 OS). Bonkers.
it sometimes also says This is not Prolific PL2303, this chip probably has dementia
There are many counterfeit PL2303, i also have a couple. They result in driver issues with the newer drivers showing an incorrect CHIP id.
The older driver gets updated on my system, which shows the PL2303 i have as counterfeit. The producer of the driver doesn't support chips made by other vendors.
I manage just fine though. The trick is to hold the reset button down while the sketch is being compiled, and release it the moment that the IDE reports the results of the compilation. Exactly the same way it is done on a Pro-mini.
Still i do admit that i now just use an UNO for these kind of things, which is a lot more practical, particularly the driver part was very confusing, also since plugging into a different USB port prompted windows to look for the newest driver online again.
If you have a device programmer (or a second Arduino), you could upload a new bootloader with a longer timeout.
(or if you could do that, you could also use "upload using programmer" and not worry about the bootloader.)
Obvious to use an ftdi programmer then.
Plenty clones around and work fine as long as you install the driver properly. Note there are 2 steps to it, youtube shows how.
that's the thing, i bought it as a ftdi
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