Sensor and Heating element

Greetings

I am fairly new to Arduino so this may be obvious to some of you.
My main goal is to power a small ceramic heating element and have the ability to adjust the heat up and down. The original thought was to make a circuit similar to the popular fan activated by the temp sensor (tons of vids on youtube).
I can not for the life of me find a single video doing the opposite (sensor heating up coil when dropping in temp)

I am also stuck on which hardware I need to use to heat the coil without electrocuting myself. I did a bit of digging and it looks like I can use a Relay to switch the coil on and off quickly to hold temp. The thing that makes me nervous is that you need to wire 120v directly into the relay then into the device (aka heating coil). This does not seem correct as the coil is very small and can not handle 120v directly.

The coil came off of a small vaporiser and only heated up to around 200-250 Celsius. Basically I just need something that can take AC and convert it into a low controllable voltage to raise and lower the coil temp via the Arduino. the sensor stuff I can figure out on my own.

I just don't want to kill myself trying to power this coil.
Attached are pics of the coil and the circuit it came from. hopefully that gives enough info.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone!

Jaarpy

I guess that cylinder is the heating element?

I don't see a relay in your pictures.

I don't know what those other boards are and if you don't have a schematic or spec you probably can't use them. (If you need a display, it's probably best to start-over and build something you understand (or something that can be understood.)

I just don't want to kill myself trying to power this coil.
Attached are pics of the coil and the circuit it came from. hopefully that gives enough info.

Well... Power line voltages can kill you so if you don't feel like you know enough to be safe you probably shouldn't be messing with dangerous voltages. It won't always kill you... I've been shocked by 120VAC and 240VAC a few times, but it is dangerous.

Have you ever changed a light switch in your house, or anything like that? Do you understand how a light switch works? ...Changing a light switch (or removing the switch and installing a dimmer) is generally safe because you should turn-off the power first... Then, the worst thing that can happen if you wire it wrong is that the circuit-breaker blows when you turn the power back on.

Messing around with the Arduino and AC power is more dangerous because you are "mixing" low-voltage & high voltage circuits, and possibly touching the Arduino, or plugging the Arduino into a computer, etc., and "bad things" can happen if the high voltage gets connected to the low-voltage circuitry.

If you feel you can wire-up an AC plug to your heating element, something like [u]this[/u] will keep everything else safe.

Do you have a multimeter? With a multi-meter you can measure the resistance between the AC circuit and the low-voltage circuits (with power disconnected!) to make sure there is no electrical connection (an "open" or infinite resistance).

If the circuit is isolated and insulated do you can't touch the hot wires, you are reasonably safe. (You aren't necessarily safe from a short or other wiring error than can cause overheating and fire, but you are reasonably safe from electrocution.)

A relay provides electrical isolation between the low-voltage Arduino and the power line. (It's still a good idea to check the isolation with a multimeter to make sure you've wired it correctly and that you truly have isolation.)

With the Arduino, you generally need a relay driver circuit because the Arduino can't directly provide enough current or voltage to activate a relay coil. But, "relay boards" with the relay, built-in driver, and screw terminals are common. Alternatively, solid state relays that can be driven directly by the Arduino are easy to find. (But, solid state relays are more expensive.)

. The original thought was to make a circuit similar to the popular fan activated by the temp sensor (tons of vids on youtube).

The circuit for controlling an AC fan would be (could be) the same. You've got a temperature sensor as input, and a relay-controlled fan or heater on the output. You just need to reverse the logic in your program a bit.

And, I would not recommend blindly following some random person's YouTube video... Try to understand how the circuit works... Study some basic electronics... Check out some similar circuits/schematics and try to understand how it works.

Same thing with the software. Try to understand how the software works. Reading the temperature might be a little confusing for a beginner (you can use a thermistor or a solid state temperature sensor) but the basic logic that says, "turn-on the heat if it's too cold and turn-off the heat if it's too hot" can't get much simpler! In fact, a "basic" non-programmable thermostat in your home, in your oven, or in your refrigerator doesn't have a microcontroller, doesn't have any software, and doesn't have any memory.

Thanks for your lengthy reply!

I appreciate your concern. I may have implied more ignorance than intended. I am decent with electronics and understand how circuits and wiring work, and yes I own a multimeter. I have done basic household wiring and have build basic analogue circuits before. I have a very good understanding of signal flow and power. The Arduino is my introduction to digital circuits and micro controllers.

In my frustration I wrote a very ineffective description of what I am actually trying to do. I think your response was appropriate considering what I had wrote.

I am Intending on building an entirely new circuit not using any parts or designs from the previous board. I was originally intending on using the existing coil but no longer am. That is why I showed pictures of it and the circuit it came from. sorry for that confusion.

The actual project is sort of a mini hair dryer. Basically a fan blowing through tube containing the heating coil with a censor to maintain constant heat. It's purpose is to blow warm air into an enclosed space to keep components warm and to dry off/prevent condensation.
I design, build, install and operate large scale audio systems for a living. Sometimes when we install systems outside overnight the components get very cold in winter and will accumulate a lot of condensation in the summer.

The coil needs to heat up to between 150 and 250 Celsius and maintain for long periods of time without fluctuation unless I tell it to do so.
I will be 3D Printing all the enclosures and connection points. This is all well within the specs of the gear I am trying to thaw/dry. The reason I am using the Arduino and not building a straight analogue circuit is because eventually I will make this wireless.

What I basically need to know is if I can use a basic relay like the one below the control a Heating element like the one listed below. Just like a dimmer. (I just chose that heater because it fits my Physical dimensions I was going to choose a different one once I figured out if/what relay to use.)

My original concern was connecting the AC to the relay and the Coil. I understand how to wire the analogue "power" side of the relay separate from the 5v control. I was hoping somebody could recommend the proper relay and or coil for this job. I am working with 120v 15A AC from the wall.

Thank you so much for your help.
I hope this clears a few things up.

Jaarpy

"The coil needs to heat up to between 150 and 250 Celsius and maintain for long periods of time without fluctuation unless I tell it to do so.

At that temp, you will be melting the solder in your equipment!

Paul

Surely you need to control your cabinet temperature rather than that of the heating element itself?

Allan

The actual project is sort of a mini hair dryer. Basically a fan blowing through tube containing the heating coil with a censor to maintain constant heat. It's purpose is to blow warm air into an enclosed space to keep components warm and to dry off/prevent condensation.

My original concern was connecting the AC to the relay and the Coil. I understand how to wire the analogue "power" side of the relay separate from the 5v control. I was hoping somebody could recommend the proper relay and or coil for this job. I am working with 120v 15A AC from the wall.

the relay you suggested looks OK, but the cartridge heater is inappropriate for a forced convection air heater. You need a finned heat sink to mount it in. You could possible drill a hole in a star heat sink designed for an led. A fin tube heater or coil, or something designed as an air heater might be better.

You have to think of your control point--the area you are heating, the air stream, the heater of heat sink. You could use a control point from the cabinet and an overtemperature limit on the heater.

To make your design a bit simpler, you could start off with an actual hair dryer, and stick it into a relay-switched outlet (adafruit sells them, amongst others). That saves you worrying about the line voltage part, and getting proper enclosures for your heating element. A good hair dryer should also have the basic safety on board, such as overheating protection.

The first problem I'm thinking of is the temperature of the air coming out of the heater, this may be higher than the typical 85C rating of your electronics. The concentrated heat may cause PCBs to expand unevenly and break things. You may need to add some tubing or so to distribute the heat.

Then the temperature control. You'll need a temperature sensor at a good place in your equipment, that gets a nicely average heat and which reacts quickly. Maybe more sensors. And a way to detect whether your sensor is working in the first place, so you can shut down if broken.

Finally the control. You should not switch "fast", you always switch with delays, and probably with some hysteresis. Switching a relay every second on and off is guaranteed to break things. Your heater and fan may also not like this kind of switching. Furthermore it takes a while for the heat to reach your sensor, so you have to switch "in advance" as you'll overshoot both hot and cold points due to this delay.