Index The index to this thread is found in post number 903 Go to INDEX. [IMG_3826] How about sharing some tips you use? Here is one I use often when I need my third hand to give a constant pull. [2017-01-04_0-01-26.jpg] .

Prototyping Wire Preparation With reference to the previous Post #1352. See Post #1356 also Below is a summary how I prepare wires used in wiring a prototyping PCB. [A] [B] [C] This should read: We Now Have 3/8" on both Sides of the Insulation [D] [E] This should read: 16 strand. [F] [G] [H]

To strip wrapping wire (30 AWG) I use this KNIPEX pliers part #12 40 200. It's perfect, even on such thin wire, by adjusting the setting. [image] [image] [image]

Two Terminal SMD Component Removal When you use a soldering iron to remove a two (2) terminal SMD device, you need to heat/unsolder both terminals at the same time. For example, when you have a 1206 resistor, both ends of the resistor need to be unsoldered simultaneously. You can use two soldering irons to do the above, or you can bridge the SMD with a wide tipped soldering iron. These SMD components are rigid and will not flex, hence a spatula will not fit under the device when just one lead is unsoldered. We have shown that a DIY soldering tip can be used, this method is another option. [image] Share tips you have come across General Electronics SMD Component Desoldering Tip Addendum It became obvious the following changes to the DIY SMD de-soldering tip construction method could be easier. Here you can see the 14AWG wire is captured between the M4 screw head and a washer. This method lets you adjust the length of the copper tips. De-soldering temperature is set to 350°C . No Silver Wire Soldering necessary. +1 [AA] [BB] [CC] [SMD De-Soldering] The process described herein uses a normal soldering iron and tip. A blob of solder is used to bridge the component leads. When unsoldering the SMD, the blob of solder is held in place with a brass spatula. The images below show the brass spatula technique. Add high temperature Kapton Tape to one side of .003” brass shim stock. Kapton tape will prevent solder from getting on the brass. Use a paper cutter to cut several 1/4” strips from the taped shim stock. We will call a 1/4” strip our spatula. Put one of these spatulas in a spatula tool handle. Use nippy cutters to trim the width of the spatula to match the length of the component. Add fresh solder to each SMD component lead. Add a blob of solder to the bottom of the not taped side. Position the spatula so the solder blob end touches and parallels the SMD device. Heat the spatula’s solder blob so it flows and bridges both ends of the component. At an appropriate time, use the soldering iron tip to push the SMD onto the spatula. Optional We can confine the solder blob with a piece of Kapton tape on the front of the brass spatula, see the last two images. As with any new technique, practice makes perfect. There are two YouTube videos at the end of this post showing the process. [0] [A] [B] [C] [D] [E] [F] [G] [H] Optional [I] Hint, use the Kapton front tape as temporary storage of flux paste. [J] See these short YouTube videos: [Video 0007] [Video 0010]

Magnet / Enamel Prototyping Wire Further to Post #1352 and #1353 In some situations, we might want to use Enamel Insulated Wire to make connections on our prototyping PCB. See the images below showing the wiring processes. You can buy this wire from many places on the internet, one store I use is: [image] Wiring Pencil Wire in UK | Electronics prototyping Pencil The Roadrunner Wiring Pencil Wire in UK comes on plastic bobbins or wire spools as refills. From us, you can choose between two types of prototyping wire pencils. Estimated reading time: 5 minutes Suggest you use: for signal connections 0.19mm Solderable Enamel (Insulated) wire (100mA). for bus wire 0.25mm tinned copper (228mA). See the short YouTube video showing the removal of the enamel insulation. [A] [B] [C] [C1] [D] [E] [F] [Magnet Wire Stripping] See post #1352 [image] Share tips you have come across General Electronics Circuit Prototyping Construction A new user eventually asks: “Now that I have made my circuit work on a solderless breadboard, how do I make it permanent.” The following images show a technique I use to make a one time, Point-to-Point circuit on a prototyping PCB. This is a valid way of wiring up a project circuit board; when you need to make several such circuits, it might be time to get PCBs made. If others have additional suggestions they can pass on, please do. The first thing we need…

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Enlarging Components Every now and then we come across the need to slightly enlarge an opening or tube. We can use extra long needle nose pliers to stretch things. Images below show a method of doing the above. [A] [B] [C] [D] [E] [F]

Hose guide from washing machine. [IMG_20250301_190349_715] Trim off clamps. [IMG_20250301_190815_585] [IMG_20250301_192404_397]

Tactile switches like the ones on the left are fairly ubiquitous, but they're not in my experience terribly breadboard friendly. Their straight PC pins cousins (CIT CR1102H series shown) on the right are much more so. And with only 2 pins to deal with rather than 4, it's a lot harder to hook them up incorrectly; but still don't connect 5V to one side and ground to the other! [breadboard friendly tactile switches]

Special clamps are available for expanding sleeves. But they are $$$! [image]

A little tip for regularly bending the pins of vertically mounted resistors . [image] [image] [image]

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LarryD February 13, 2025, 8:50pm 1358

Enlarging Components

Every now and then we come across the need to slightly enlarge an opening or tube.
We can use extra long needle nose pliers to stretch things.
Images below show a method of doing the above.

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Share tips you have come across

Enlarging Components

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