Index The index to this thread is found in post number 903 Go to INDEX. [IMG_3826] How about sharing some tips you use? Here is one I use often when I need my third hand to give a constant pull. [2017-01-04_0-01-26.jpg] .

ElCaron: Rather a question for a tip, but i am sure larry has something :smiley: How do I fixate tiny smd components while soldering? Last weekend I soldered a 3216 tantalum cap directly on an SOT223 LDO and then cables to the pins, to make an "in-cable" voltage regulator (then I covered it in black hot-snot for strain relief - power dissipation is low enough). I managed to do it, but it was quite a hassle. Any good suggestion how to hold such components on top of each other? [image] [2017-02-07_13-24-39.jpg] [2.jpg] See this link : What the heck, get a coffee and go through the whole thread ~387 posts. :wink: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=445951.msg3143697#msg3143697 [ThirdHand.jpg] [Soldering.jpg] You could apply a very small amount of JB Liquid Steel, or similar, to components to glue them together. I believe high temperature Liquid Steel is non conductive. .

JohnRob: I know what you mean by melt back, its aggravating especially when the solder doesn't wet immediately. Regarding the test lead wire. I have some Beldon 24AWG silicone "Test Lead" wire. I found it is thicker and not a flexible as the wire I found on ebay (see a few posts back). Thanks JohnRob Just received the wire and LEDs, 6 days, $3.50 shipping China to Canada. AWG 22 silicone rubber insulation Number of strands counted is 60, extremely flexible! Zero, nada, no, shrink back of the insulation when tinning the strands, I would have expected this. They also have 28, 26 and 24 AWG wire (and larger) I would recommend this wire/insulation. Maybe I should get #8 with 1,650 strands :wink: [image] .

One big problem with the soldering mat described in post #358 is it's flexibility. A medium density polyethylene cutting board solves this problem. Correction:1.5mm should be 1.5cm [1.jpg] [2.jpg] [3.jpg] [4.jpg]

Got a request for the code that goes with post #334, (Using a LED and switch on the same I/O pin). Forgot to add it to that post :frowning: so here it is now: /* Demonstration how to use a pin as an output to a LED and at the same time, as an input from a switch. Note: The LED(s) 'must' be connected to +5V (CA) through a series resistor. The switch is connected to GND through a 240 ohm resistor. Typical setup for SMD LEDs: +5V White LED - 4.7K - I/O PIN - 240R - Switch - GND +5V Red LED - 2.2K - I/O PIN - 240R - Switch - GND +5V Green LED - 1.2K - I/O PIN - 240R - Switch - GND +5V Blue LED - 4.7K - I/O PIN - 240R - Switch - GND +5V Yellow LED - 2.2K - I/O PIN - 240R - Switch - GND LarryD Version YY/MM/DD 1.00 17/06/01 Running code */ //Assume 6 LED/Switch combinations are connected to pins as below const byte HeartBeatLED = 13; //This LED will be toggled when the switch on this pin is pressed const byte YellowLED = 12; //This LED will be toggled when the switch on this pin is pressed const byte BlueLED = 11; //This LED will be toggled when the switch on this pin is pressed const byte GreenLED = 10; //This LED will be toggled when the switch on this pin is pressed const byte RedLED = 9; //This LED will be toggled when the switch on this pin is pressed const byte WhiteLED = 8; //This LED will be toggled when the switch on this pin is pressed byte lastHeartBeatSwitchState; //The state this switch was in byte lastYellowSwitchState; byte lastBlueSwitchState; byte lastGreenSwitchState; byte lastRedSwitchState; byte lastWhiteSwitchState; //====================================================================== //An example of Timer 'structure' coding struct timer { //lastMillis = the time this "timer" was (re)started //waitMillis = delay time (mS) we are looking for //restart = do we start "this timer" again and again //enableFlag = is "this timer" enabled/allowed to be accessed //timeType = true = millis(), false = micros() //********************** //For each timer object you need: //Example: // timer myTimer = //give the timer a name "myTimer" // { // 0, 200UL, true, true, true //lastMillis, waitMillis, restart, enableFlag, timeType // }; // You have access to: // myTimer.lastMillis, myTimer.waitMillis, myTimer.restart, myTimer.enableFlag, myTimer.timeType, myTimer.CheckTime() //********************** unsigned long lastMillis; unsigned long waitMillis; bool restart; bool enableFlag; bool timeType; unsigned long currentTime; bool CheckTime() //Delay time expired function "CheckTime()" { if (timeType == true) { currentTime = millis(); } else { currentTime = micros(); } //is the time up for this task? if (enableFlag == true && currentTime - lastMillis >= waitMillis) { //should this start again? if (restart) { //get ready for the next iteration lastMillis = currentTime; } //time was reached return true; } //time was not reached return false; } //END of CheckTime() }; //END of structure timer //====================================================================== //********************************************************************** // Create and initialize timer objects //********************************************************************** timer checkSwitches = //create a timer to check the switches { 0, 50UL, true, true, true //lastMillis, waitMillis, restart, enableFlag, true=millis/false=micros }; // s e t u p ( ) //********************************************************************** void setup() { //************************************** digitalWrite(HeartBeatLED, HIGH); //LED LOW = ON pinMode(HeartBeatLED, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(YellowLED, HIGH); //LED LOW = ON pinMode(YellowLED, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(BlueLED, HIGH); //LED LOW = ON pinMode(BlueLED, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(GreenLED, HIGH); //LED LOW = ON pinMode(GreenLED, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(RedLED, HIGH); //LED LOW = ON pinMode(RedLED, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(WhiteLED, HIGH); //LED LOW = ON pinMode(WhiteLED, OUTPUT); } // E N D O F s e t u p ( ) // l o o p ( ) //********************************************************************** void loop() { //************************************* //Is it time to check the Switch(s)? if (checkSwitches.CheckTime()) { handleSwitchPresses(); } //************************************* } // E N D O F l o o p ( ) //====================================================================== // F U N C T I O N S //====================================================================== //********************************************************************** // h a n d l e S w i t c h P r e s s e s ( ) //********************************************************************** void handleSwitchPresses() { //Read our six switches byte CurrentSwitchState; //*************************** //Has the switch changed position for this pin? CurrentSwitchState = ReadSwitchLED(HeartBeatLED); if (lastHeartBeatSwitchState != CurrentSwitchState) { lastHeartBeatSwitchState = CurrentSwitchState; if (CurrentSwitchState == LOW) { digitalWrite(HeartBeatLED, !digitalRead(HeartBeatLED)); } } //*************************** //Has the switch changed position for this pin? CurrentSwitchState = ReadSwitchLED(YellowLED); if (lastYellowSwitchState != CurrentSwitchState) { //update to the new switch state lastYellowSwitchState = CurrentSwitchState; //when the switch goes from not pushed (HIGH) to pushed (LOW) then do something if (CurrentSwitchState == LOW) { //example: toggle the LED on this pin digitalWrite(YellowLED, !digitalRead(YellowLED)); } } //*************************** //Has the switch changed position for this pin? CurrentSwitchState = ReadSwitchLED(BlueLED); if (lastBlueSwitchState != CurrentSwitchState) { lastBlueSwitchState = CurrentSwitchState; if (CurrentSwitchState == LOW) { digitalWrite(BlueLED, !digitalRead(BlueLED)); } } //*************************** //Has the switch changed position for this pin? CurrentSwitchState = ReadSwitchLED(GreenLED); if (lastGreenSwitchState != CurrentSwitchState) { lastGreenSwitchState = CurrentSwitchState; if (CurrentSwitchState == LOW) { digitalWrite(GreenLED, !digitalRead(GreenLED)); } } //*************************** //Has the switch changed position for this pin? CurrentSwitchState = ReadSwitchLED(RedLED); if (lastRedSwitchState != CurrentSwitchState) { lastRedSwitchState = CurrentSwitchState; if (CurrentSwitchState == LOW) { digitalWrite(RedLED, !digitalRead(RedLED)); } } //*************************** //Has the switch changed position for this pin? CurrentSwitchState = ReadSwitchLED(WhiteLED); if (lastWhiteSwitchState != CurrentSwitchState) { lastWhiteSwitchState = CurrentSwitchState; if (CurrentSwitchState == LOW) { digitalWrite(WhiteLED, !digitalRead(WhiteLED)); } } } // E N D O F h a n d l e S w i t c h P r e s s e s ( ) //********************************************************************** // R e a d S w i t c h L E D ( ) //********************************************************************** //Save the current state of the LED on this pin. //Read the state of the switch on this pin. //Return the LED state back to this pin. //Takes about 14us for this process. byte ReadSwitchLED(byte thisPin) { //Save the current state of this output pin byte PinState = digitalRead(thisPin); //read the switch connected to this pin pinMode(thisPin, INPUT_PULLUP); byte SwitchState = digitalRead(thisPin); //return the pin to OUTPUT pinMode(thisPin, OUTPUT); //restore the pin state digitalWrite(thisPin, PinState); return SwitchState; } // E N D O F R e a d S w i t c h L E D ( ) //====================================================================== // E N D O F C O D E //======================================================================

One of my favourite hand tools is the 'Razor Saw'. I use both 24 and 52 TPI versions. The 24 cuts a 14 thou kerf and the 52 cuts a 10 thou kerf. They cut on the pull stroke. These saws are great for cutting plastics, brass and aluminum. In project construction, these are a must have tool. You can buy a miter box for the 24TPI saw but will have to make your own for the 52TPI version. Using the purchased 24TPI box, add successive layers of wood under the aluminum extrusion (raise in stages until finished making the cut), cut the slots as needed. These saws are very sharp; make a sheath out of plastic to protect the teeth and you :wink: . Use 'Bull Dog'/Binder clips to secure the sheath. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=55600&cat=1,42884 http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=45161&cat=3,43576,61994,45161 [1.jpg] [2.jpg]

Hi @larryd, do you actually get any work done, or just keep making tools and tool holders. Your work area is wayyyy to clean.. lol. Tom... :slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

'Clean as you go' is my motto, one of them anyway :slight_smile: .

Those are "binding clips". This is a bulldog clip... [image] :smiling_imp: [15276868.jpg]

" 'Bull Dog'/Binder clips to secure the sheath. " :wink: [image] .

Share tips you have come across

Other Hardware General Electronics

LarryD October 7, 2017, 2:30am 394

A silicone mat under the miter box helps prevent slippage.

Topic		Replies	Views
Alternatives to soldering, before I rip all my hair out General Guidance	52	1223	September 5, 2025
PCB con Atmega328 che non funziona Hardware	35	450	October 7, 2026
Some notes about construction Tutorials	80	4899	June 8, 2023
Will this work? Atmega1284p Schematic Hardware Development	230	2376	May 19, 2026
Premier schéma de PCB pour contrôleur d'aquarium (ESP32, ESPHome, Home Assistant) Français	40	571	October 31, 2026

Share tips you have come across

Related topics