Share tips you have come across

We all have a set of tools that are not being contained.
Tools can easily get misplaced, soon we have a set missing that one tool we like the best.
You can keep yourself organized by making your own ‘Tool Pouch’.

If you have access to a ‘Hand Impulse Heat Sealer Machine’ you can design your own roll-up pouch.
These ‘Sealer Machines’ cost about $40-50 and come with replacement heating parts.

These easily seal: 6mil poly, anti-static bags and other sheet plastics.

They can also seal that aluminumized half bag of potato chips. :wink:

4 mil sheet plastic takes about 2 seconds to seal with 1-2 seconds cool down.

Below is a 4 mil ZipLoc bag, writing is removed with IPA.
Set the timer dial setting to ~3-4 (1-1.5 sec).
Use a spacer to get even compartments.
A tongue depressor is used.

Further to post #349
We have all accidentally dumped a bottle of fluid on our work surface.
These ‘Sticky Pads’ are great in preventing this from happening.

Moving the top out on an infinity mirror gives a downward image.

Banana plug to everything (almost).

After a few years, your third hand alligator clips get weak and bent out of shape.

https://www.amazon.ca/10Pcs-Alligator-Crocodile-Clips-Cable/dp/B07219YN9N/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511899006&sr=8-1&keywords=10Pcs+Iron+Alligator+Crocodile+Test+Clips

Just got a few Arduino Mega clones from Terry (reasonable price!).

You may need to install an Arduino (here a Mega), in a box/case or other platform.
The Arduino designers made major mistakes in the placement of the mounting holes.
These were placed too close to headers etc.

You can make this happen if you use 2-56 screws.

You can make the washers as in post #290
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=445951.msg3161698#msg3161698

You can make acrylic nuts as in post#109
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=445951.msg3115248#msg3115248

I use a slightly smaller version of the computer motherboard nylon push through's that have a thread on them.
You can get the board off if you want just by squeezing the tab on the push through spacers and they are super cheap.

The variations make mounting things a breeze

Those work quite well if there are no through hole components near by.

I find in a year or two the nylon/plastic they are made of becomes brittle.

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I have some of the white self stick cable tie mounts here that are over 20 years old and work great alongside the large collection of even older computer standoffs.

Its not so much about age as quality.

If the white ones are not subject to UV they will last a very long time and if its going to get any UV then the black ones.
Same thing with cable ties and other electrical nylon / plastic hybrid parts.

Not poo pooing your method at all for custom items.
But for standard items then off the shelf every time.

Just try ensure my stuff is HDPE or similar as its almost indestructable

"Its not so much about age as quality."
I know how that feels :wink:

I do use those standoff’s for some projects.

I think heat might be a factor too, but with low power stuff, not much of an issue.

I was just thinking, a small diameter wooden or plastic dowel with a hole in the top and a tight fitting push in 2-56 screw might work as well.

Edit
Agree, the clear cable ties do not like UV.
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Maybe a modified version of this would work too:

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The Arduino designers made major mistakes in the placement of the mounting holes.
These were placed too close to headers etc.

Well, it was more like they added additional headers after the screw holes had already been fixed in place. Go back to the duemilanove (or even the Uno V1), and there's plenty of room around the mounting holes.

larryd:
The Arduino designers made major mistakes in the placement of the mounting holes.
These were placed too close to headers etc.

I avoided that problem by cannabilizing a cheap plastic Arduino enclosure to use as the mount. Too much trouble to try to keep four holes perfectly placed. This way I only need two holes for the enclosure itself and there's play for slight adjustments.

larryd:
Maybe a modified version of this would work too:

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I have used old biro tubes cut to length in the past , there is a bit of slop to allow some mis alignment betwen hand drilled holes as well.

A few hints on making ‘Infinity Mirrors’.
One ProMini, some code, 47 neopixels, acrylic frame and some woodworking skills can result in a nice gift idea (or 6).

https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/acrylic_sheets_mirror_clear/521

https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/two_way_mirrored_acrylic/558

I made an infinity mirror with my sister, it was a lot of fun. Put it down on the floor and it just looks so weird. What I want to make next (one of a couple "above and beyond" enhancements of old projects I've done) is make an infinity digital clock with APA120s embedded into the mirror so I can do some color-fading effects with the time display and border LEDs.

The most ugly thing about most RGB LED strips is the discreteness of the individual LEDs. From a close enough distance, your eyes can clearly perceive the spacial difference between light spots. has anyone found a good tactic for diffusing individual SMD LEDs? I'm thinking of trying a very small blob of hot glue and seeing if that takes the edge off it. It's slightly translucent.

Sometimes a simple tool will do just fine.