Index The index to this thread is found in post number 903 Go to INDEX. [IMG_3826] How about sharing some tips you use? Here is one I use often when I need my third hand to give a constant pull. [2017-01-04_0-01-26.jpg] .

WOW 2000+ Congrats! Mamma better be getting a some good presents for all that work. Thought about a PDF awhile back to summarize things but that would be quite large. This is a good summary of the images. Posting images.

Hi Larry, Actually Mary Alice is doing a whole different "Middle School Science Kit" thing which got so big she had to rent some warehouse space to manage receiving all the stuff and build the 5 sections of the kit for each of 165 schools. The COOL thing is the warehouse also contains cars the owner is working on or storing. In the spirit of all the great photos YOU put up :slight_smile: : The cars are mostly 1920's that are immaculately restored. Here she is at work: [image] THEN the other day the owner brought in the grand prize: a 1927 Bugatti race car, absolutely perfect in every way: [image] This car was last sold for "Quite a lot more than $10,000,000 " [image] So we walk very CAREFULLY with boxes of parts... If I was to indulge my ancient Hotrodder vibes, I'd show you the engine of that Bugatti :slight_smile: Later I'd like to try to figure out how to capture all the very, very useful work and inventions you show, so people can find things easily.. Hmmm....

#Blind Standoffs I do not like to drill holes in a chassis for mounting PCBs. Doing so, means screw heads are visible from the outside chassis surface. I mount PCBs using plastic nuts glued/welded to the inside surface of a chassis. These nuts are usually made from 3mm thick acrylic plastic. When the PCB is not meant to be removed too often, I usually thread the plastic nuts to an M2 or a 2-56 screw thread. When PCBs are needed to be removed, I use brass inserts that are installed into the plastic nuts. These inserts are long lasting, inexpensive and easy to use. As an alternative to brass inserts, I use M2 knurled brass standoffs. You can see the physical differences between inserts and standoffs below. The inserts must be used in material that is equal to or thicker than the insert’s length. Standoffs can be used in material that is thinner than the standoff’s length. Below is the method I use to make the plastic nuts. I show standoffs in the following images, the process for using inserts is the same. M2 Inserts 100 for $2.00 M2 Standoffs 100 for $4.00 2-56 inserts 100 for $20.00 [One.jpg] [Two.jpg] Note: The 15mm and 20mm standoffs are threaded only 5mm from either end. [Three.jpg] A = Brass standoff B = Brass insert [Four.jpg]

Chamfering helps with insertion of the standoffs/inserts. The plastic nuts can be cut from 3mm or thicker acrylic plastic. Make sure you do a few test runs to get the drill bit properly sized (2.9mm works well). [Eight.jpg] [Five.jpg] Note: You are using a 'drill press' here as an 'arbor press' ! [Six.jpg] [Seven.jpg]

4 component mounting shoes: [Fourteen.jpg] I like to use a standoff that is a bit longer than the material is thick. [Sixteen.jpg] Video speed has been sped up. [642F1132-7125-4BC8-975A-FBCE222516A3.gif]

DCM? I guess it's a solvent for welding plastic.

DCM, or ‘Methylene Chloride’, or Dichloromethane (takes 15 seconds to weld acrylic). If ABS plastic is used Acetone works. MEK works but smells bbbaadd. You could use 5 minute Epoxy glue. You can try PVC and ABS glues from the hardware store. Or double sided foam tape if the plastic nut is sufficiently large.

larryd: DCM, or ‘Methylene Chloride’, or Dichloromethane (takes 15 seconds to weld acrylic). If ABS plastic is used Acetone works. MEK works but smells bbbaadd. You could use 5 minute Epoxy glue. You can try PVC and ABS glues from the hardware store. Or double sided foam tape if the plastic nut is sufficiently large. Methylene Dichloride is sold here, in the UK, under the trade name "Plastic Weld". I keep mine in the fridge, to stop it evaporating. MEK = Methyl Ethyl Ketone. I don't mind the smell. It's not as bad as Acetone. Some of the higher Ketones have quite pleasant smells, one has a distinctive 'pear drops' smell.

Share tips you have come across

Other Hardware General Electronics

LarryD August 4, 2018, 2:26am 601

To make the images more viewable, I did not show a stop plate.
You should use a stop plate to protect your bottom surface.

Mounting Techniques for Arduino in Enclosure

Topic		Replies	Views
Alternatives to soldering, before I rip all my hair out General Guidance	52	1232	September 5, 2025
PCB con Atmega328 che non funziona Hardware	35	465	October 7, 2026
Some notes about construction Tutorials	80	4917	June 8, 2023
Will this work? Atmega1284p Schematic Hardware Development	230	2408	May 19, 2026
Premier schéma de PCB pour contrôleur d'aquarium (ESP32, ESPHome, Home Assistant) Français	40	579	October 31, 2026

Share tips you have come across

Related topics