Index The index to this thread is found in post number 903 Go to INDEX. [IMG_3826] How about sharing some tips you use? Here is one I use often when I need my third hand to give a constant pull. [2017-01-04_0-01-26.jpg] .

Ahhh, now that is essential to a work bench. "Discard Items" container. A goldmine of odd washers, nuts and bolts, make shift sleeving and shorting links, Almost as good as a junkbox. Tom... :slight_smile:

“A method for doing something might not work in all situations.” This discussion shows two methods for removing SMD components. ‘Desoldering Spatulas’ Material: magnetic hold-down clamps sitting on a 403 stainless steel work surface Aluminum strips cut from a soda can (these will have a thickness of ~4 thou”) 60/40 solder silicone non slip strip Acetone for cleaning utility knife When we need to remove a multi lead component it can be quite challenging. A strip of aluminum can be slid under heated component leads to separate them from their pads. Practice makes perfect. Note to self: Get some .002" stainless steel shim stock and try it. Apply ‘Liquid Flux’ on the leads to aid in solder melt. If needed, place Kapton tape on either side of the resistor to shield solder splashes. EDIT See posts #750 and #776 [SMD_1.jpg] [SMD_2.jpg] [SMD_3.jpg] [SMD_4.jpg] [SMD_5.jpg] [SMD_6.jpg] [SMD_7.jpg] [SMD_8.jpg] [SMD_9.jpg] [SMD_A.jpg] [SMD_B.jpg]

I assume all the above is done because no hot air tool is available?

Yes, but we all have a soldering iron available. Just showing what is possible and sharing options and techniques. With hot air, you ‘do’ have to protect surrounding components with Kapton tape as hot air is ‘not’ as targeted as an iron. However, hot air has its place. Note: If you ever tried to remove an electrolytic SMD capacitor with a hot air wand, that capacitor can explode. In which case you can use the aluminum strip method. Flux, heat one lead and tilt the capacitor slipping the ‘strip’ under that lead; cool and remove the strip. Heat the other lead pulling off the capacitor. EDIT See post #776 [Cap1.jpg] [Cap2.jpg] [Cap3.jpg]

You can easily remove air from your Solder Paste syringe with a piece of wire. [Air0.jpg] [Air1.jpg]

Using a 1 ml syringe over the 10 ml Solder Paste syringe makes the out flow more controllable. [Solder Paste #1.jpg] [SolderPasteOnPCB#1.jpg] [Solder Paste #5.jpg]

If you are not doing too many PCBs, manual syringe depositing of solder paste is easy to do. A 1 ml syringe is superior to a 10 ml syringe. You can fill your 1 ml syringes from a 10 ml syringe; suggest you fill to the 0.3 – 0.4 ml level. A “22 Gauge” tapered plastic needle is what I use most often; suggest you deposit enough solder paste to cover the whole “Component Pad”. There is significantly less effort advancing the plunger when using a 1 ml syringe. I use a two-handed method to hold the 1 ml syringe; a microscope makes the work easier too. Although you can do an adequate job using only a syringe, a dispenser makes the process easier and more controllable. The “Micro-Dot” dispenser is great for depositing solder paste and can be purchased from the following WEB site: Solder paste dispenser Here, I share technical solutions that arised during the development of my solar-bike. The YouTube videos here shows how easy the dispenser is to use: [ - YouTube] [Manual micro-dot solder paste syringe dispenser assembly] To help my big fingers work with the 'Micro Dot dispenser' I made a “Spring Assist Fork”. This helps me assemble this dispenser, I also added a “10 mm Washer” in front of the compression spring. Following is a discussion for using Micro-Dot dispenser: [Dispensor0.jpg] [Dispensor1.jpg] [Dispensor2.jpg] [Dispensor3.jpg] [Dispensor4.jpg] [Dispensor5.jpg] [Dispensor6.jpg] [Dispensor7.jpg] .

The great thing about the 'Micro-Dot Dispenser' is the piston springs back when you release the grip. This takes the pressure off the solder paste and stops oozing. No complicated compressed air machinery, no wires or motors. :slight_smile: Laying down dots of paste is fast, accurate and the process is repeatable. This is a good great ‘must have’ tool if you are doing a few boards and you don't have a stencil. These YouTube videos give you an idea of how much paste is actually needed: [Techcon Systems TS7000 Auger Valve Solder Paste Dispensing] And [ - YouTube] EDIT: After using the tool for a few months, I had a problem with the dispenser insert pushing out of its mounting hole. The solution was to solder a flange washer to the insert to prevent the insert from dislodging. Since solder does not stick to stainless-steel (SS), use a SS M3 screw to keep the washer in place during the soldering process. See the images below to see how to make the modification. The manufacturer has said new batches will incorporate a flanged insert. :slight_smile: This is an indispensable tool on my work bench so it’s nice to have it working again ! [Dispensor9.jpg] [DispensorA.jpg] [DispensorB.jpg] [DispensorC.jpg] [AA.jpg] [BB.jpg] [CC.jpg] [DD.jpg]

When you load a new 1 ml syringe from a 10 ml solder paste syringe, you first need to purge all the air from the setup. Attach a 18-gauge blunt needle to the 10 ml syringe. Advance the 10 ml syringe plunger until solder paste oozes out of this needle. Move the 1 ml syringe plunger to about 0.1 ml. Insert the blunt 18-gauge needle into the end of the 1 ml syringe until you touch the rubber plunger. Push the 10 ml syringe plunger so solder paste starts to fill the 1 ml syringe. As the 0.10 ml void fills, rotate the body of the 1 ml syringe so you fill the void and force out all the air. Once you fill the end of the 1 ml syringe, pull out the 18-gauge needle. Now that the 1 ml syringe is purged of air, advance its plunger until all the solder paste is completely expelled; after this point, ‘do not’ pull on the 1 ml syringe plunger. Replace the 10 ml syringe 18-gauge needle with a Luer Lock coupler. Fill the coupler with solder paste by advancing the 10 ml syringe plunger. When the coupler is full of paste, connect it to the 1 ml syringe. You can now finish filling the 1 ml syringe with solder paste; suggest you fill to 0.3 ml or 0.4 ml. Unless you accidentally pull back on the 1 ml syringe plunger, you do not have to purge it again. [Purge1.jpg] [Purge2.jpg] [Purge3.jpg] [Purge4.jpg] [Purge5.jpg] [Purge6.jpg] [Purge7.jpg] [Purge8.jpg]

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LarryD March 15, 2020, 12:43am 753

Syringe storage:

Once my Solder Paste syringe is load, I do not like to dismantle any part of it.

To prevent the paste from drying out make a DIY Luer Lock cap.

The Heat Shrink cap can be removed and re-used.

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