Share tips you have come across

Care has to be taken when adding headers to a PCB.
You want to get the headers soldered perpendicular to the PCB.

You can plug your headers into a solderless proto board, then add and solder you PCB on top of the headers.

For PCBs with odd header spacing (not .1 inch centers), you can make a mounting jig from a second PCB of the same layout.

Here a soldering platform is used to do the same.

Soldering platform

Machine pin headers at the top.
Regular headers at the bottom.

Move the PCB to one side so the pins on both headers align to each other.

Make insulated washers out of inexpensive TO220 bushings ( ~ $3 for 1000).

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/1000pcs-Insulating-Tablets-Insulation-Bushing-TO-220-M3-Transistor-Pads-Circle/252036141573?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

larryd:
Make insulated washers out of inexpensive TO220 bushings ( ~ $3 for 1000).

1000pcs Insulating Tablets Insulation Bushing TO-220 M3 Transistor Pads Circle | eBay

Haven't you made special jig to do that @larryd ?
Tom... :slight_smile:

TomGeorge:
Haven't you made special jig to do that @larryd ?
Tom... :slight_smile:

Sometimes you have to revert to the old fashion way of doing things. :confused:

This is as close as I came to things:
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=445951.msg3161698#msg3161698

What you want is a flypress...

How many millions do you need?

Allan

Never seen one of those before, probably knock myself out. :sleeping:

I do have a Panapress (Arbor press):

ICSP programmer with clothes-peg.



When making up a wiring harnesses, a comb can help keep wires parallel.

.

larryd:

Once the wires are twisted, stretch the bundle slightly to stop them untwisting.
(That was my first job in an electronics company)

And while stretching, slowly run a lit lighter or some other heat source up and down the bundle once or twice.
The isolation will soften, and set to its new position after cooling down.
After that, your twist is definitive

Takes a little practice to to find the right speed for the run, as to not melt and/or burn the isolation and prevent scorched spots on it.
And for larger bundles, make sure you reach all sides of it to get an even result.

Heating makes a huge difference.

A 'hot air rework wand' or 'heat gun' works well for this.

A bit of heat shrink at both ends prevents unraveling.

Note:
You do have to start out with extra cable length, the twisting shortens the final length considerably.

Using Cable ties is cheating. Where's your waxed linen lacing twine?

Cant get it these days although waxed plumbing string (hemp) is an acceptable substitute.

Boardburner2:
Cant get it these days although waxed plumbing string (hemp) is an acceptable substitute.

Dental Floss ? ? ?

Waxed nylon lacing cord is freely available.

Allan

larryd:
When making up a wiring harnesses, a comb can help keep wires parallel.

And if you use lots of cable ties a ty-rap gun is indispensable. Much faster than sidecutters, grips the cut ends so they don't fly all over, and doesn't leave those sharp little ends to scratch the back of your hands on.

westfw:

nice old technology
thank you for photo

I've been watching this thread since becoming aware of it a few few weeks ago; thanks to all for the contributions.

That said, I'm in the middle of rewriting some of my old code with some new found best practices. In doing so, I asked myself if a standard existed for declaring variables; meaning, I could simply look at HOW the variables were written, i.e. GLOBAL_CONSTANT, MyMethod, pMyPointer, etc., to determine the type as opposed to scrolling to where it was initially declared.

As I was writing the question on this thread, I decided to google it and found this.