You can apply the ‘Header Desoldering Heat Sink’ idea to other THT component packages.
Here we make a heat sink to help remove 10 turn potentiometers from PCBs.
There are two different lead configurations for potentiometers, inline and triangular.
Make a 3 X 3 drilled grid of 1.2 mm holes; the holes are spaced at .1 inches.
Once again, @220°C it takes about 10 seconds to remove the component using the MHP30 hotplate.
This same concept can be expanded to: I.C. footprints, terminal strips, etc.
Note: If need be, expose potentiometer leads using 'Solder Wick' so the leads fit into the ‘Heat Sink' holes.
Fantastic ideas larryd! I'm really impressed!
Do you also have an idea how i can solve this?
I have two 18650 batteries soldered together in parallel and i use the pack for powering small 5v projects. I'm using an boost converter to boost voltage to 5V. Thats works as a charm.
But i want to make an solution that i quick and easy can charge booth batteries as two single cells without desolder and make a mess.
How can i wire the two cells that way that they works as two parallel connected cells but in the same time is easy to charge individually?
I know how to wire it, but i want an quick and easy and compact way as possible for doing it. 
Bjerknez:
I have two 18650 batteries soldered together in parallel and i use the pack for powering small 5v projects. I'm using an boost converter to boost voltage to 5V. Thats works as a charm.But i want to make an solution that i quick and easy can charge booth batteries as two single cells without desolder and make a mess.
How can i wire the two cells that way that they works as two parallel connected cells but in the same time is easy to charge individually?
Hi,
If you set your batteries up as in the diagram below, with a three pin socket/plug.
You can then have a supply plug for what ever your load is and a charge plug connected to your charger.
Just swapping the plugs changes the arrangement from supply to charge.
Tom..
PS. If you have to have both batteries completely disconnected from each other to charge, then use a 4 pin plug.
Oh my gad! So simple
So it's okay that both batteries are connected together on the ground side when charger plug is connected?
Make a soldering table for the MHP30 hot plate.
See post #857 also.
The following discusses how adding a hot plate table to your MHP30 can greatly increase its capabilities.
FR4 glass fiber PCB material is used in the table.
Jack screws are used and can adjust the separation of the tabletop and its base.
A major advantage of the table is it allows for SMD PCB soldering of much larger boards than can normally be accommodated by the hot plate itself.
You solder the board in 37 X 37 mm sections, each section taking less than 15 seconds.
Bjerknez:
Oh my gad! So simpleSo it's okay that both batteries are connected together on the ground side when charger plug is connected?
Yes if your charger is okay with it.
Tom..
The screwdriver is so cool. I do wonder though how durable they are.
Desoldering Spatulas
You can make your own ‘Desoldering Spatulas’ from a sheet of .1 mm (4mil) Titanium.
Commercial stainless steel spatula blades are about 4.5mil thick.
200 X 300 X .1 mm sheet costs about $6.00.
Cut a strip (~6 mm wide) from the sheet.
Cut to length and shape with your Dremel/Fordom tool using a sanding drum.
Use 600 grit sand paper to soften edges as these are sharp !
Confirm the tool fits your Exacto knife handle.
These blades are great for removing SMD I.C.s.
Set the soldering iron temperature to ~300°C.
Add a bead of solder to multiple I.C. pins, move the spatula under those pins, cool, repeat as needed.
Titanium is a non-magnetic metal which solder will not adhere to.
Hi,
The
Solder Seal Butt Connectors, by BigClive
Tom...
TomGeorge:
Hi,
The
Solder Seal Butt Connectors, by BigClivehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unxEdyW8RP8
Tom...
Ordered a selection of those about two weeks ago as I do a bit of splicing and besides Clives videos I looked at a few more with a better scientific approach to tensile testing.
After viewing more info I decided they were perfect for my usage.
After seeing the video i'm not convinced that the solder is making a good enough connection. But i'm also think that tbigclive exposed too mutch copper. With less copper area i think the connection would have been better?
Bjerknez:
After seeing the video i'm not convinced that the solder is making a good enough connection. But i'm also think that tbigclive exposed too mutch copper. With less copper area i think the connection would have been better?
Check out other peoples vids on the same connector.
I would think that not rolling the stands as tight may also play into it too.
Might also be tempted to put a drop of fluid on there to aid flow as well.
Seems like sandpaper is used all the time on the workbench.
You can purchase grit assortments of wet/dry sandpaper from Amazon and eBay.
Cut manageable sized strips from the paper side using a utility knife.
Keep these strips nearby so you have them when they are needed.
You can use double stick tape to attach the sandpaper to a flat piece of aluminum (coarse on one side fine on the other); use this tool for leveling items with a longish edge.
Does not getting the DS tape of give rise to its own issues ?
SS tape can be fun on a 3d printer bed (hot or cold) so hate to think how much extra clean up may be needed.
“double stick tape” as in “double sided tape”
Usually comes off with a hot air gun, touch up with turpentine (oh that smell 
).
If it becomes too difficult, things get tossed in the garbage.
The red sample shown is from a sanding belt, cloth backing, aluminum oxide Zirconium; 3 years old now.