Snapped strip board, best way to fix?

So i just got done soldering a small circuit on some strip board and went to break it off from the rest of the board since I was only using about 10% of it. I though I could just use some wire cutters on it. I could not. It broke off in an odd shaped piece, but not on any of the holes with components soldered to them. I was wondering if I could just fit the pieces back together and solder the tracks, but I don't know if that would be strong enough. I could do that and wrap it in tape, too. Also, what do you guys thing the best way to break off pieces of it is?

Any help is appreciated, thank you.

My advice? Throw it out and start over.
If you want to rescue it, solder it. "Strong enough" for what, exactly?
A hacksaw or a Dremel with diamond disc can cut a PCB without cracking.

jwatte:
"Strong enough" for what, exactly?

For handling, I'm using for breadboard power, so I'll be putting it in and taking it out often. I suppose I can always try and if it breaks I'll just start over :confused:

solder the tracks using small pieces of tinned solid wire as jumpers and cover both back and front with epoxy glue

I would epoxy glue a small strip of board over the join so it has more strength than a butt joint.
To cut strip board, score both side with a sharp knife and snap.

Cut the piece out beforehand.
I use a Dremel and the rough, abrasive cutting wheel attachment (kicks up some dust, get a mask.)

jackrae:
solder the tracks using small pieces of tinned solid wire as jumpers and cover both back and front with epoxy glue

Grumpy_Mike:
To cut strip board, score both side with a sharp knife and snap.

runaway_pancake:
Cut the piece out beforehand.

Will do, thanks for the replies

Use a sharp knife to score it on both sides like has been said your lungs will love you for that.

Any kind of grinding needs lots of ventilation and a mask these boards are made with glass fibers and when you grind it the dust will stay in you lungs which can't be good.

I have used solder braid to mend stripboard. Gives a bit more strength than a single strand. Also, an exacto razor saw makes quick work of cutting/scoring the board without creating airborne dust. It's also a great cheap tool for all sorts of cutting jobs. Will even cut mild steel with no problem.

I used the xacto razor saws for a while, I find a standard hacksaw blade works 10x faster and lasts much much longer. The problem I have with razor saws is the blades, fine teeth, on thin metal + FR boards it quickly dulls out (though it could be much worse) its really meant for cutting plastic and balsa wood, maybe even thin metal, and it will just shred though those. Anyway once it dulls out, you might as well be cutting with the edge of a file.

A hacksaw will slice though the stuff with no issue and unlike the razor saws the blades are dirt cheap, available at any hardware store, blow though inches of mild steel, and IMO create LESS dust. The teeth are bigger, which creates bigger particles per stroke, and if your not trying to speed run it, going slow and steady almost all of it will fall in the trash can below, even a razor saw just turns it into an ultra-fine powder

I dont even have a full sized hacksaw, just one of those half saws meant for one hand, and what was a big deal turns into seconds, then finish the edge with a file, which I always have done, from wasting boards watching them snap half ass a cm away from the score, to burning 5 bucks a pop on razor saw blades, to the 4$ lows hacksaw that its original blade has blown though tons of PCB and is still sharp enough to slice my thumb wide open as it did last week heh.