Using simple feature extraction to control lights

Before I do the following, please let me know if you can think of a better way. Because I couldn’t find a box that is already made, and I don’t have the tools to make one (out of plastic or metal), the best thing I can think of is to use a small cardboard box. Because I don’t trust myself with metal parts, plastic bolts would go through circular holes in the printed circuit board(s), circular holes in a battery holder, circular holes in the cardboard box, and plastic nuts. My main reason for using cardboard is so I can make a rectangular hole in the box, put a ledstrip (a short distance) into the rectangular hole, and put epoxy where the two (the ledstrip and the box) touch each other. Or I might sew a LilyPad (which I think is a type of wearable) onto the cardboard.

Thank you.

It is your party...
I would use plastic...
A box for small items (apple, electronics, etc.). Look around...
Addressable leds can be bought with adhesive tape.
Or you can buy single addressable leds and mount them in the plastic box. If you drill 3.5 mm holes, you can push them in. A bit of jou and they will stay forever.

Will something go wrong because I try to use a (easy-to-plug JST SH 4 Pin) cable to connect one side of the Adafruit 9-DOF Orientation IMU Fusion Breakout - BNO085 - STEMMA QT / Qwiic (at https://www.adafruit.com/product/4754) to the SparkFun Qwiic Micro - SAMD21 Development Board, and another cable (of the same type) to connect the opposite side to the SparkFun Qwiic LED Stick - APA102C (at https://www.sparkfun.com/products/18354)?

Thank you.

In addition to the question that I asked in post #103, I have question. Why is it so hard to find a 3.3 volt coin cell battery holder that comes connected to a micro-USB cable (which I think might be best to use with the SparkFun Qwiic Micro SAMD21, at https://www.sparkfun.com/products/15423)?

Thank you.

Can you provide a proposed schematic?
(pen and paper will do).

How long will it run on a coin cell?
What will that cost in the longer run?

It is at https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hHdw9vE1clSnfoN7_tthbw2x4LUk13Tc/view?usp=sharing.

Are those power lines?
Or data lines.
Please make a proper plan if you want proper feedback.
Cables need labels on both sides.
My guess is that the leds may consume quite some power. The coin cells are not built to deliver that power. And they will rapidly drain...
How do the data run through the dof board? What vommunication protocol is used?

Please see the table that the link (https://docs.google.com/document/d/1BMp-KnCczt84ReunMBBm4VpIQiMWhTIP/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=102420801851138330130&rtpof=true&sd=true) goes to.

It is a 4 pin connector. What does pin 4 do?
I will not download any links anymore please read the forum guidelines on how to post.
Also there is still no schematic. (paper pen picture post).

There, it says, “Please try to avoid posting links to other sites where code or photos or schematics are hosted.” Is that what I’m mostly doing wrong?

It also says, “Please thank people who provide helpful answers and don't forget to give hearts as well,” but I don’t think I should do that after every reply of yours, even though I’ve been thinking about how thankful I am for your replies.

For the STEMMA QT cables, Adafruit follows the Qwiic convention, so pin 4 uses yellow for SCL.

Please let me know if this question is too long. The schematic should include voltage, but some sources of information say 3V, and others say 3.3V. Are both possible? I couldn’t find a compatible 5V part, which I thought would be better to use with a LED stick.

Thank you.

Do not share links to other sites where code or photos or schematics are hosted...

To me it is not clear how ground is connected from main board to the other boards.

Mixing 3v and 5v and 3.3v may cause problems. You need to check the datasheets for compatibility. So add a link to the seller's or manufacturer's site where the info can be found. Add the link as a link... if the boards are not compatible you can chose alternative boards or add level shifters. I recommend the first option.
The schematic needs to depict your plan. So label according to that...
You are way too vague on the choice of parts. How can I advice without knowing which exact boards you plan to use and how you plan to connect those?

So please make one or two posts with the links to relevant boards and a hand drawn schematic. So that all info is handy together... we are at post 111 now and scrolling up and down through them to collect all info does not work for me.

Can we please focus on finding a battery holder (because that is the hardest thing for me to do now) before the schematic? The datasheet is at https://cdn.sparkfun.com/assets/a/6/e/f/e/Atmel-42181-SAM-D21_Datasheet.pdf. I’m still curious why the manufacturer’s Hookup Guide (which says 3.3 volts) says a different voltage than Adafruit’s quick comparison guide (which says 3 volts) for the same thing, I think.

Thank you.

You shared the wrong link. This is about the chip. You should link the board...
Why bother about a battery holder now? Feed it from usb during testing... to be honest, I a doubt whether your project will ever enter the testing phase...

Please see https://www.sparkfun.com/products/15423.

Because of the rules, I can’t give more than two links in each post. There are four different parts, not counting the battery holder.

How do you want me to share the schematic?

Thank you.

A challenge I see in the forum far too often,are assumptions by ‘newbies’.

Many of the helpers here are, or have been professional systems designers or developers.

They expect a certain degree of competence, otherwise they’re speaking greek to a japanese builder… that’s why standards, schematics and clear project descriptions are mandatory.

Sometimes that can be achieved fairly easily, other times it’s necessary to go back to the battery + switch + lightbulb explanation.

It’s too easy to bury the discussion in buzzwords and dreams that are not mutually understood by all contributors.

The forum rules will be less strict if you loose your newbie status. You loose your newbie status after reading some posts on the forum... I guess you already did. And 3 posts next to each other is also fine.
The board into tells you can solder a lipo under the board. Why not do that?
The hand drawn schematic can be photographed and posted here.

I’m curious why it can be done in three posts next to each other, but not in one. I want to get them all in one place for you.

The picture is below.

What parts A and B (labeled in the picture above) look like can be seen at https://www.adafruit.com/product/4399.

After I advance beyond Gravity, Grove, STEMMA, Qwiic, and STEMMA QT; I’m looking forward to doing more advanced stuff like that. For now, I’m just looking for two parts, one that I can plug into the other.

Thank you.

In post #115 you managed to add a proper link to the samd board. In -> Documents --> hookup guide you can find how to use it...

Two lnks to the other boards are still missing... your link links to cable... and a video (and I do not watch videos).

There, it says, “power can be supplied to the SparkFun Qwiic Micro through micro-USB”. Can that be done with a battery holder, or another way without soldering? I don’t know what they mean by “confident” when they say,

"While it's possible, I strongly recommend against soldering wires directly to these pads unless you feel confident in this decision."

The 9-DOF IMU is at https://www.adafruit.com/product/4754.
The Led Stick is at https://www.sparkfun.com/products/18354.

Thank you.