first of all i apologise for the bad wiring this is my first time soldering, why is it that when i power the step down, and measure the voltage of the pin i circled on the image, it gives around 1.5v, it also made my esp32 cam turn on its light, that circled pin is gpio4 which from my research powers on the light when given high.
Other than that, the code i uploaded doesnt run at all when i power the esp cam, however using the downloader module, the code runs just fine and the flashlight does not turn on.
The labels do not match.
PcFxxxx is not on your real board (or hidden somwhere).
Vcc of pcf is not connected.
The soldering is really bad.
Your wires should be solid (not with smaller wires inside).
I recommend using multiple colors (+ - signal).
You need flux and more heat to let the solder flow.
Sorry for all the critics, but I am afraid you need to start all over again.
It really helps to make things repetitive (put all relays next to one another. Put all transistors in a similar orientation.
In your schematic : show if transistors are npn or pnp. From your schematic I derive they are npn. I did not check yet...
You seem to use a 10000 ohm resistor to control BD3x. That is way too much. BD39 has low current amplification, so you may need a second transistor to control the bd. Other transistors wil perform much better..
By the way, the relay modules have a built in transistor, and can be controlled directly from the board...
Those smaller transistors often have base in the middle (unlike bdxx).
Just to clarify: the chip I’m using is PCF8574 (shown in the image). I’m using a 1 kΩ resistor to drive the transistor because the ESP32-CAM only outputs 3.3 V, and the relay is rated for 5V, so I need the transistor to switch it. The transistor I’m using is NPN.
I agree that my soldering is messy and the wiring could be improved. I tried using continuity mode using multimeter and checked that those exact pin I circled does not have a connection with any other pin.
Ok, so the transistors are used as level shifters. That should be fine.
The power rating of BD3x did put me on the wrong track...
The resistor at the top is 10k (brown black orange gold) .
Are your solid wires tinned copper or aluminium?
Aluminium cannot be soldered... tinned copper is orange in the middle (if you cut the wire).
Hope you didn't use acid core solder; use 60/40 or 63/37 Rosin Core solder meant for electronics.
If you did use acid core solder, the acid could be conducting current to where it shouldn't go.
Buy yourself a range of thin single core wires in different colours .
Use black for 0v , red , orange for the other power connections .
Test those then start adding parts , write on your schematic what colours you used for each bit and test at each stage , then move to the next . Write simple sketches if needed to say operate the relay to check that works .
Get a cheap multimeter or even wire a led and resistor to some dangly leads so you can check voltages .
Tin the board and wire ends , then solder to the board . Best , if you can to run the wires through the board holes ( you could even run power supplies on the top , signals on the bottom )
In an ideal world you want this ; which although not perfect , takes a bit of experience and planning :
( solder one end then hold the wire in pliers to form a nice bend )
You should realize that modern meters have a 20 Mohm impedance. Even the tinyest current leak will cause a voltage to be measured.
Tie the pin to gnd with 100 kohm or so.
Measure again...
Fair chance you will measure 0 V.
Tie the pin to gnd...
If you want to be able to also put it high, use a 10 kohm resistor to tie it to gnd...
Floating pins can easily pick up signals...
Because you have short circuits. Start over, learn how to solder, use proper electronics solder and I like liquid flux. Proper temperature is key, I assume you have a soldering iron with temperature control, it should be 700F/370 °C. Your board shows signs of too little heat AND too much. Flux will improve that. As far as the 1.5V, ask yourself if your circuit can supply that, or else it's a high-resistance short. Ignore that and start over.
You need to uo your soldering skills.
Did you try cleaning it?
Agree with the others, there's a high risk of introducing problems.
An FR4 board with THP "pads" (via's), can make for a more finished item.
You would be better off with a prototyping breadboard to see if everything works.
As for soldering, it's down to tools and materials. Good lighting and magnification all help.
Chip Quik SMD flux is my flux of choice, though I do make up my own flux with rosin and IPA.
Despite the need to avoid the old "killed spirits of salt" type fluxes, I do sometimes resort to one of the modern lead-free plumbing fluxes like Fry Powerflow. Not a problem if cleaned up, and so far, no more detrimental to tips than anything else
