What do you use for female jumpers?

Hey guys: I was wondering what you use for female jumpers. That is, jumping from header pin to header pin, or headers on a breadboard.

I have these parts in mind for building such a thing:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hirose-Connector/DF3-3S-2C16/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM1yzgAzd5W8zv%252bLk7zUWGZOk%3d The contacts: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=DF3-2428SCvirtualkey64550000virtualkey798-DF3-2428SC

And: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hirose-Connector/DF3-3S-2R2605/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM1yzgAzd5W8zvuIKr0e%252bZj3Y%3d

Or do you just buy these jumpers in a kit?

Thanks guys! Just wanted to get a second opinion before I buy anything :P


O jeez sorry bout that!

Ill find the thread, thanks for pointing that out.

Seems like sort of a specific topic. Do you have the name of the thread?

I've used the little shunt jumpers by sticking the end of a wire in one hole, soldering, and bending to the side, then sliding the other shunt hole over the male pin.

pololu.com has what you seek.

I can recommend the terminated wires that pololu.com carries, with a crimp connector housing on each end to make nice little cables with such as I have here (I have male pins in same configuration plugged into deumelanove headers).

You might be able to use the pins from a female crimp type female D25 connector.


zoomkat, are you suggesting removing the pins to use as standalone jumpers?

In my experience, female pins that will fit on a 0.025" square post will not fit on the male pins in this kind of connector, the pins are too large in diameter.

I have not tried pulling the female pins out of a header to see what they look like.

If one wants loose pins, the pololu crimp pins are one of the better ways to go, even if you end up soldering them on vs crimping.

You can buy preassembled male-male, female-female, male-female, in a bunch of lengths (3", 6", 12", and longer) and housings to slide them into (1x1, 1x2, 1x3...1x12, 2x2, 2x3, etc), or just the terminations alone and make your own wires.

Here's the link to the list of all the terminated wires http://www.pololu.com/search/compare/71

or just the crimp pins http://www.pololu.com/search?query=crimp+pins

Can play around within the search feature & narrow down the displayed list. I have been getting the 50-packs of assorted wires to build up into projects.

The picture of my remote above shows a 1x8 female-female cable I made to connect to 1x8 right angle male pins on the little wirewrap board and straight 1x8 pins soldered onto a velleman keypad. I also made a 1x6 male-female extension cable so I could connect the USB-FTBI programmer to the minipro without having to remove it from the box.

zoomkat, are you suggesting removing the pins to use as standalone jumpers? In my experience, female pins that will fit on a 0.025" square post will not fit on the male pins in this kind of connector, the pins are too large in diameter. I have not tried pulling the female pins out of a header to see what they look like.

The size difference could be an issue and probably square vs round. The RS D25 crimp female pins come in a strip in the package. Below is what I've done in the past to connect a wire to a header pin. Kind of crude, but works when not desiring to spend $8+ on postage and waiting for a week for $1 worth of parts. Note in the bottom pix the shunt jumper is shown upside down for the intended action. Stick the wire in one of the bottom holes and the other bottom jumper hole on to the pin.

Have you tried various ribbon cables.. they might be able to get you the inside and outside rows, but the middle might be tough. Pin spacing in definately the issue. "Repurposed" hard drive, floppy, and whatever else cables from a remaindered PC are great sources. Time for that old Pentium 90 to die for a good cause- cables and connectors. Don't forget to rip the drives out too, always a few good stepper motors and such in a floppy or CD drive. If the drives are older, they very well could also have internal connectors and ribbon cables that might be coaxed into usability. I currently use a floppy drive cable as a convenient push-on connector and cable for UART to my boarduino.

I'd normally warn against fudging a connector.. but, considering where you are already.... hehe

I had looked into that, scoping out sites that had surplus cables cheap as I only had 1 or 2 around. In the end just rolled my own with the pololu parts. I ended up needing 1x2 cables, 1x8 cables, and 1x5 cables. Also having one end of each come straight up from my control board (in the middle here) meant I could get them pretty densely assembled. I think if I had a PCB there I could have used the 20 connector ribbon cables (which are 2x20 rows, but one row is all ground) and then broken out the other end to go the different places in the rest of the box. I may go that route when I build the next one. As it is, I just planned it out and got the parts that let me assemble in an easier method. Bought extras of everything so I had some parts to change the design if needed. Like now, I find as I fix up my coding errors and the wiring has become pretty stable, it is getting inconvenient to keep removing the control board to reprogram the Promini. So I have a 1x6 extension cable that I can use to connect to an external FTDI Basic for programming, and I'm adding a couple of pins so I can have easy access to a jumper to disconnect the Serial-in line to the promini which interferes with programming. (the external device I listen to goes thru a 74LS04 inverter to work correctly with the UART - but keeps the FTDI from working, so I'm making a jumper with a little wire that I can pull & then pop back on).

Props on the Wire Wrapping.. not seen that in a while ;) pretty sure I used my last spool of 30ga teflon to make an electromagnet for son's school project..

Anyway, jumper sets are cheap if ordered online.. I'm in USA, so I limit the search to North America if I need em quickly, otherwise just do a normal ebay search for the suckers. You can get a 70 pack of 'em of assorted lengths for a couple of dollars shipped. Typically if you find a vendor you might want to check out what else they are selling, if they will combine shipping.. finding a 760 point breadboard for $4 or LED's at 100 for $3 from the same bulk Hong Kong vendor is common.. just be prepared that you might be waiting a few weeks for things to get there. I generally use "buy it now" and stick to vendors that have done a few thousand ebay sales..there's many... also those outfits are great for component assortments like resistor kits..

Thanks. Gonna play with the prototype a while, see how we like it, how well it holds up to the kids. Once we're happy, next build will be PCBs for faster ass'y. Or maybe not - still have to solder in pins for headers & sockets & stuff, the wire wrapping wasn't much beyond that. Still tweaking the software, fix one thing and I get some other unexpected result - had the score keeping working, now when I go from 9 to 10 on side, the tens digits works, but the ones digit didn't reset to 0 - and it was working before, so something I did to blank leading 0s on 10s digit messed up that up. Almost there ...

Or from pololu for $10.95 if one is in the US ...