That shield documentation is ridiculous, there's not even datasheet available. The relay itself is rated for 125VAC. No idea how they ended up with number 48V, maybe some local hobby-electronics regulation.
Anyway, it's not power-relay. You need to look for third party shields like this:
That could be a DC rating, many relays are rated for different currents at different voltages with different loads. I suggest for the best results you get solid state relays with zero cross, that will keep noise down and you can drive them directly with the Arduino output. They are optically isolated. When I use them I place the solid state relays in an approved box the do the high voltage wiring etc in that box and use a small multi-conductor cable to go to the Arduino in another box from the relays. The following pictures may help. The relay shown is not the correct one for you but there are a lot of different ones in the same or similar package.
as well as the switching voltage and current one has to consider the type of load being switched - see ac-utilization-categories-iec-60947 - a relay rated a 10amps resistive load may only be 2 or 3 amps for a Squirrel-cage induction motor
you need to check the device data sheet, e.g. the datasheet of solid-state-relay-20a-32vdc-din/dp shows
note ratings AC-51 (Non Inductive or Slightly inductive loads), AC-53A (Control of squirrel cage Induction motor on 8 hour duty with on load current) and AC-53B (Control of squirrel cage induction motors on intermittent duty)
although the Relay Shield V3.0 referenced in post 4 appears to be a very neat solution I tend to agree with @Wawa having 125V or 250V signals so close to a UNO is dangerous
also consider
the documentation does not mention Optocouplers
could electromagnetic interference from the relays switching cause problems? e.g. resetting the microcontroller
prototype also has LCD display, LoRa module, Sigfox module and QEI encoder for menu selection on the LCD display
the relay loads were small 250V pumps and solenoids - even then EMI was causing the UNO to reset - using shielded cables overcame the problem
the final custom PCB used industrial quality relays
Thanks for all the replies, my project looks quite similar to horace's but without the WiFi modules. I'm using a block of blue relays, which have been switching away for 5 years or more now, with no problems. I was just looking for a way of tidying it up.
maybe worth trying the shield of post 4 to "tidy up" - if you do so let us know if it works
however, there is an old saying "if it not broke don't fix it"