Any fresh tips on rectangular holes for project cases?

Nice setup. Straying OT, but what are those two partially visible units, bottom right, with blue and red displays.

Your printer looks like mine. An Ender 3 V2?

Its one of my Arduino prototypes.
Yes, its a Creality Ender-III. I make tons of stuff with it for Arduino projects. Mounts, feet, cable shrouds, etc. not to mention medallions, Rick & Morty stuff, etc.

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Larry, @UKHeliBob,

I think I have the solution to the potential 'show stopper' about working distance: a Dremel Flexible Rotary Drive. With the saw tool at the end of its flexible shaft I should be able to navigate over even quite large panels with no risk of obstruction. Will try asap.

Flex shafts are great !

I have a Foredom tool that cannot live without.

See this link:

image


FYI

See these links Post 578:

Post #582

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What a mess behind the scene.

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It was my first project as a test bed for everything I could think of. It was supposed to be "steampunk". Check this one out:

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What is this magic turquoise something filled ampoule?

Its a "storm glass". The lighting is color change LED controlled by the push button switch in front of it.

There is a lot of joinery in the box: Inlaid racing stripes, beveled face plate, ornate dovetails, recessed lighting, and exotic woods.

I made the glow cube too. The laser image is me, back in the day! LOL

Wood shop dovetails nicely with electronics shop for project packaging.

This is actually on topic, because of the multiple rectangular cutouts in the faceplate! Drilled, scroll sawed, and sanded for final fit.

  • The two electrodes are a vertical FM dipole antenna with the zig-zag for coolness and a beaded chain as a ground wire.
  • The led "puck" light was converted from battery to hard +5v power. The 3d printed Rick is on display.
  • The dark rectangle is an LCD humidity meter.
  • The green display cycles time, temp (sensed by black thin probe in front of storm glass), and DC voltage.
  • The car radio is Bluetooth and drives 4x speaker terminals on the rear with 50W.
  • The vertical LEDs are a VU meter with selectable display modes (selected by small chrome button centered over the radio.)
  • Each gadget is separately controlled by a series of lighted push buttons on the top.

Don't take this the wrong way, but what do you have against countersinking / counterboring?
The appeal of some exposed hardware aesthetic?

I'm seriously considering a lower cost CNC for just this purpose.

~$300 usd SainSmart 3018-proVer

Thanks for the suggestion. Some time ago I looked as a bazillion 3018's, got saturated and dropped it for a while. I was thinking of one with a stationary platform for the material being "machined". My though was; If I wanted to make a non round opening in the side of a case, in theory I could raise the CNC to obtain more height.

What I really want is a Bridgeport with CNC capability, although I have absolutely no place for such a thing.

Just what I need in my bedroom/shack
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Tom... :smiley: :+1: :coffee: :australia:

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When we move into the seniors home wonder if they will let me bring one in ?

:thinking:

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The Thingiverse LCD bezel is OK, although it does take a lot of space. I decided to be brave and reduce the width of its rim from 4.5 to 1.5, now that my Dremel flexible drive shaft is in use. No SCAD file was available so I imported the STL into OpenSCAD and eventually got the neater sized bezel printed.

However, I was being a tad too ambitious. My rectangle was not as accurate as I’d hoped! So I reckon I’ll have to improvise something similar to your setup. A challenge, as the the Dremel unit is barrel shaped, not cylindrical.

Yes, the company designed it so you have to use their attachments :angry:

Another option is to use one of two the available saw blades available for an Olfa Ak-4 handle.

You will not be sorry you invested in these, must have !


These are extremely sharp and aggressive and make short work of a required squared hole.

Use these slowly and do not over force the blade while sawing.

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A bit larger, these are great too.

I have a similar saw I bought a long time ago. Strongly recommend for small, precision work.

so... a standard coping saw would work too, right?

Yes, a coping works nicely too.


So would a Scroll Saw set to slow and using a metal cutting blade.


If you have a Router and a 1/4" flush trim bit, you can make a jig.

Obviously, you need to be careful.

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