Anyone spare or share a source of sockets ifor NANO?

So some of my NANO projects have outgrown the "Bread board" stage. Can anyone recommend a source of sockets I could use for them, from a supplier who won't rip me off? All I see on Ebay are complete sockets mounted on boards with screerminals, and a bunch of other add ons I don't need. Then I found one supplier who had just the sockets at a reasonable price till you got to the shipping, where the dude wanted about $12 to send me something that obviously would have fit easily in a $6 priority mailer, or even a plain mailing envelope. Tired of getting ripped off fow tr obvious parts.

I think you're using the wrong search terms. Of course searching for something like "Nano sockets" will give you bad results. The correct term is female header:

The cheapest way to buy them is in the 40 pin strips. You can cut them to length with dykes. You lose one pin when you cut them because there's no way to cut between pins.

Note there are two different types of headers. The regular ones like you have on your Nano and the round ones. The round ones are nice but not compatible with the square pins. The round pin ones you can actually break to length and can even avoid losing a pin at the break if you're careful.

Ah that was easy! Thanks! Funny that a lot of those are advertised on e-bay for the Raspberry PI, which is weird because those have a double row of pins.

PeterPan321:
Ah that was easy! Thanks! Funny that a lot of those are advertised on e-bay for the Raspberry PI, which is weird because those have a double row of pins.

Since they are 40 pins, see if the 40 pin DIP sockets will work for them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-IC-Socket-Adaptor-PCB-Solder-Type-DIP-40p-2-54mm-Pitch-40pin-DIY-1179/302381001642

or even pricier
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Green-16-20-24-28-40P-Pin-2-54MM-DIP-Test-Universal-ZIF-IC-Socket-Welding-Type/273120895327

.

Actually the Nano is only 30 pins, but I don't think they make a 30 pin 0.6" wide socket. There may may a 32 pin.

If you go the route of using an IC socket, then the 0.1" square pin headers will not work. You will need to find machine pin headers that look like the round pin IC sockets. They are pricier than the square pin headers. I found and used them to mount a few Pro Mini's a while back.

If you go the route of using an IC socket, then the 0.1" square pin headers will not work. You will need to find machine pin headers that look like the round pin IC sockets. They are pricier than the square pin headers. I found and used them to mount a few Pro Mini's a while back.

You mean pin headers like these: Gold-Plated-2-54mm-Male-Female-40-Pin-Single-Row-Straight-Round-Pin-Header

Those pins fit into round pin sockets fine and they work even better with breadboards since they don’t open up the wire clamps the way the square pins do.

avr_fred:
You mean pin headers like these: Gold-Plated-2-54mm-Male-Female-40-Pin-Single-Row-Straight-Round-Pin-Header

Those pins fit into round pin sockets fine and they work even better with breadboards since they don’t open up the wire clamps the way the square pins do.

That would be them.

If designing your own PCB, which you want to mount a pro mini on, there's another trick - make or find a library (or manually place rows of header - but this is error prone) with pins on the board you want to connect to. I usually don't place the 1x6 ftdi header, and just mill out a slot under it, and solder those pins on first).

Then place the pro mini directly on the PCB, over the holes. Put a piece of pin header through on one side. Apply no-clean gel flux to the other side, and then solder each pad, holding the iron against the hole on the pro mini until it wets the corresponding hole on your board - you'll see the solder suddenly suck inwards when this happens.

DrAzzy:
If designing your own PCB, which you want to mount a pro mini on, there’s another trick - make or find a library (or manually place rows of header - but this is error prone) with pins on the board you want to connect to. I usually don’t place the 1x6 ftdi header, and just mill out a slot under it, and solder those pins on first).

Then place the pro mini directly on the PCB, over the holes. Put a piece of pin header through on one side. Apply no-clean gel flux to the other side, and then solder each pad, holding the iron against the hole on the pro mini until it wets the corresponding hole on your board - you’ll see the solder suddenly suck inwards when this happens.

Its a good idea.,Sadly I’m pretty embarrassed about even making this post because I actually had a good variety of female headers already, and somehow just forgot the proper name for them. But its good I did anyway, because now I see sources on ebay that are dirt cheap. Granted, none of them are as low profile as some of the 3M offerings on digi-key, but I was just happy to find connectors that were not the usual rip off price.

But back to your idea, I’ve thought of doing something similar. This time I was not quite ready for a PC layout, but did need to at least do a hand wired perf-board proof of concept. But you know, having worked with these NANO boards for several months now, I’ve come to learn the hard way how easily one can be electrically damaged. Granted, as a design idea evolves, those extra protective components we sometimes leave out in haste get added, hopefully before the first PCB is cut. But even then I’m thinking it pays to socket them, if only to be able to replace when fried by a spike from an unexpected source. It is, after all, the most sensitive item in most projects, and depending on the source might also be the cheapest to replace. And when a design inevitably evolves and a new board is cut, how much easier to move a NANO from a socket, then to attempt surgery with hot air.