I have an arduino uno that worked a couple days ago,
but since I used the cnc shield from protoneer.com on 12 volt my arduino isn't recognised by my pc or device manager.
I've tried it on a couple other pc's (one running linux, the other osx and my main pc windows) but it wasn't recognised by any of them.
So I tried reloading the firmware of the atmega328p and atmega16u2 with my usbasp and it wrote, read and verified the hex with no problems.
But after all it is still not recognised, has anyone any idea what happend here, did I maybe burned the fuse or something?
I agree with MrAl - trying another UNO, (without the CNC shield initially), is the best way to isolate the problem. I'd buy two, just in case. Good clones are cheap. I buy the ones that are an exact duplicate of a real Arduino UNO for AU$8 each including delivery, here:-UNO R3 ATmega328P Development Board for Arduino Compatible and USB Cable
(These boards have the ATMega chip for USB to serial, not the CH340G chip that gives many people so much trouble.)
This is the Protoneer CNC shield V3.10 schematic, but it doesn't help much:-
My uno board is a dip version and has the atmega16u2 as usb chip.
I did plugged my other arduino in my computer and that arduino just worked.
My cnc shield is version 3.0 from protoneer and both uno's are clones but they are perfect clones.
I hope this information helps.
rubikscraft:
Hi,
My uno board is a dip version and has the atmega16u2 as usb chip.
I did plugged my other arduino in my computer and that arduino just worked.
My cnc shield is version 3.0 from protoneer and both uno's are clones but they are perfect clones.
I hope this information helps.
Renzo
It's good that you have a spare UNO.
So maybe you have blown the onboard fuse on the dead UNO board. Easy to check - do a continuity test with a multimeter. It should measure very close to 0Ω. The fuse is circled in the attached image.
If you're drawing a fair bit of current, you should use an external supply and not the UNO's power. It's regulator is rated for a maximum 800mA, so the current should be kept well below that.
So maybe you have blown the onboard fuse on the dead UNO board. Easy to check - do a continuity test with a multimeter. It should measure very close to 0Ω. The fuse is circled in the attached image.
If you're drawing a fair bit of current, you should use an external supply and not the UNO's power. It's regulator is rated for a maximum 800mA, so the current should be kept well below that.
Hi,
I tested the fuse and it was measured about one ohm is that good?
or is it maybe something else?
rubikscraft:
Hi,
I tested the fuse and it was measured about one ohm is that good?
or is it maybe something else?
Renzo
Something else. I overlooked/forgot the fact that the UNO fuse is a polyfuse, so was unlikely to be 'blown' in the usual sense of the word - it would automatically reset.
I don't know what to suggest. There must be some other damage to the board. Personally, at the cost of these clones, if it was me I'd simply throw it away and buy another. They're not worth spending too much time on.
OldSteve:
Something else. I overlooked/forgot the fact that the UNO fuse is a polyfuse, so was unlikely to be 'blown' in the usual sense of the word - it would automatically reset.
I don't know what to suggest. There must be some other damage to the board. Personally, at the cost of these clones, if it was me I'd simply throw it away and buy another. They're not worth spending too much time on.
ok then i'll save the usable parts and go and buy another arduino
