This seems like it should be simple, but I'm not sure what hardware to use to create a power distribution block with solder connections instead of screws. I have 8 components that need to be powered from the same source, and they are permanent installs so I don't want any chance of a screw coming loose.
I've tried two kinds of prototype PCBs. The first was only printed on one side, but each row was connected. This was ideal, except that the board wasn't sturdy enough. If I moved the wires too much it ripped the pads right off of the PCB. The second prototype PCB was much sturdier since the solder goes through to both sides of the PCB, but each hole is individual so in order to connect the wires together I have to use another wire or globs of solder. Any suggestions?
larryd:
Install the wires from the other side of the board.
I did, and unfortunately they still ripped off the pads. I'm using 22 AWG solid wire and they can put a bit of strain on the PCB when moved. The single-side prototype board just couldn't handle it.
nootadis:
I did, and unfortunately they still ripped off the pads. I'm using 22 AWG solid wire and they can put a bit of strain on the PCB when moved. The single-side prototype board just couldn't handle it.
Now you learned to use stranded wire for anything that might have to be moved.
I don't have a completed one to show but I attached the obnoxious way I'm trying to do it now. It works but seems sloppy. Strain relief is a good tip I should've thought of but didn't, so thanks for that. I'm using solid over stranded because it's so easy to work with. Acts just like legs on a through-hole component, and fits the holes perfectly. Maybe I should consider stranded, but I only currently have solid wire to work with so I'd have to order some stranded.
larryd:
On the one side board: the wire goes in on the none foil side, through the hole and soldered to the pad on the foil side.
If this is done, I don’t see how the copper pad can ever be ripped off.
That's exactly what I did. It won't rip off if the wires are pulled away from the PCB, but if they're pushed towards it they're rigid enough to rip the pad off of the PCB. Probably only a problem with solid wire. Stranded is flexible enough that it probably wouldn't cause this problem.
If you have a few wires that are to connect together: each through their individual hole, but solder them to the wire next to them. No need for extra wires or blobs of solder, just a bit more wire to go through the hole.
Actually I prefer screw terminals. A properly done screw terminal is as good as a solder joint, but you still have the option to easily remove the wire if needs be. Or proper connectors, that also works great. Larger ones such as these with screw terminals on the plug, or the smaller JST XH connectors.
Once you have all your wires installed, and it is permanent, run hot glue down the line of wires, to adhere the wire insulation to the PCB.
The glue will also provide a support to stop the wire breaking off at the PCB due to any heavy handling.
I have seen this idea, but do not remember
whom to credit. He drilled a hole close to the
solder pad, slightly larger than the wire
insulation. The wire is passed through this
hole from the solder side of the board. A
generous loop is formed and the bare end
passed through to the pad and soldered as
usual. When the joint cools, the wire is
pulled back and the insulation now trapped
by the board forms a strain relief. This
can be used in perfboard or PCB construction.
Herb
Point taken on screw terminals. I found some that'd work, but they're higher cost than the prototype PCB I'm using now and don't save me much on time compared to my current method.
It looks like I might be best off using my current method with the strain relief a few of you mentioned, using longer wires to connect one hole to the next. I thought there'd be a commercially produced PCB or connector for this type of thing, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
I do like the idea of looping the wire through from one side to the other, as it adds strain relief and also helps hold the wires while I solder them.
Strip-board is more robust than blob-board (aka prototyping board), strips don't pull off as easily as
single pads. You can lay the wire along the strip for more area of solder joint.
Stripboard is also neater usually, although you have to invest in a spot face cutter tool.
nootadis:
I thought there'd be a commercially produced PCB or connector for this type of thing, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
Most connectors have 2.54 or 5.08 mm spacing (or other multiples of 2.54/0.1") so can be soldered directly onto protoboard. See the links in my previous reply for examples that work fine with protoboard.
MarkT:
Strip-board is more robust than blob-board (aka prototyping board), strips don't pull off as easily as single pads.
I've long since switched to using protoboard with through-plated holes (usually sold as "double sided"), rather than the stuff with the little pads around the openings which indeed fall off if you look at them too hard.
Sure it costs nearly double, but it's still very cheap and works much easier.
Actually searching for "stripboard" turned up something that looks like it might work. This has power rails that are connected, it is double-sided, and the holes are through-plated. It even has screw holes to make it easier to mount in an enclosure, so it looks very promising. I'm going to order some and try it out.
I'm using 22 AWG solid wire and they can put a bit of strain on the PCB when moved. The single-side prototype board just couldn't handle it.
