Hi,
That DIL spec fits ALL my BBs perfectly.
I have to go to work, but tonight I'll post some pics of DILs on BB.
I fail to see your "philosophy" of BB use.
Tom... 
Hi.. Ho... Hi... Ho....
To whom was this directed ?
"I fail to see your "philosophy" of BB use."
raschemmel:
To whom was this diected ?
"I fail to see your "philosophy" of BB use."
To @robint
robint:
Why do you like 6 holes rather than 5?
Especially useful when using wider Dev boards like Wemos Mini.
You can buy them from Rapid
https://www.rapidonline.com/Catalogue/Search?Query=K%26h%20ad-&Sortasc=fromprice&Size=20
Is that all one breadboard or multiples plugged together ?
Oh cone on ! I did that in my first year of electronics. That's child's play. (nice job, but how hard is that ?) You can't do that when you have
500 wires.
robint:
Now thats a birds nest!
I hope you were being sarcastic....
Now that's what I'm talking about !
(how complex can you get and still have it work ?)
That takes attention to detail. (not that the other
one doesn't , it's just a matter of degree.)
(of course he was being sarcastic)
raschemmel:
"When you look at the magnificent birds nest for a lighting console above you can see that dodgy BB use would make for a nightmare"
I did not suggest you were using a dodgy BB or there was anything wrong with what you did back then
IMHO someones birds nest is like a child only a mother could love - ie dont show it to the paying client who asks who will fix it in a years time after you have long moved on.
But consider this, 40 years ago what you produced was SOTA and components used were quality and werent poisoned by the tsunami of cheap charlie knock offs from YKW today
My OP was all about the shock of trying to use that humble 741 IC in a breadboard. It didnt fit properly and flopped around. I couldnt see why, what am I doing wrong
Doing some forensics I have uncovered this cause for concern as we all took the breadboard for granted as I did
It turns out the mechanical design is barely sufficient for the insertion of DIL chips and expect to get reliable connections.
Would you for instance use a BB lash up with numerous ICs on a moving vehicle in the field.
You say loudly
"And yes you should NOT be using SOCKETS in a breadboard !
I am now saying be wary of using DIL ICs directly on economy BBs if you want to show a working example in public (worse still to a paying Client)
I hope to compile a hybrid solution, suggested above, for good practice to get reliable use of a BB
Indeed it seems that Arduino have already been there done that with their shield solutions
What can be more demotivating than spending days coding and poking together your pet Uno idea only to start up and BOOM (as PmW would say) it doesnt work. Is it the code? Is it the wiring? Is it a duff widget? Eventually hours later it boils down to a lose intermittent connection on the BB - we have all been there Im sure.
larryd:
You see - pay attention - not a BB mounted IC in sight - he's doing it right meh :o
That FYI is sardony
But truth be told - jumper leads on a BB - its what they were made for and AFAIK provide reliable connections
Hands up - whats the alternative to a BB and jumpers leads - YES wire wraps. I was astonished to learn that a wire wrap round a square post was more reliable than pcbs, solder joints vibration, corrosion etc
The jumper leads that have the cylindrical plastic sleeves on the ends --- seem to have a higher 'chance' of having an open-circuited lead due to assembly issue at the factory. That's compared with the ones with the rectangular shaped sleeves. But no matter which kind they are ------- there's always that chance of encountering an open-circuited lead -- which has probably led to some words such as &%*#$%$#!&$ after discovering that it was the (or a) reason for the breadboarded circuit system not working.
This has in the past driven me to temporarily detach the plastic sleeves - and use a soldering iron and solder to solder the wire to the metal crimp connectors ---- at the crimp location .... which needs to be done just right, otherwise we can't get the plastic sleeve back on later. This of course could take ages to do ----- and that's for just a single cable (both ends) heheh. And no ----- I am not OCD heheh.
The other option is to at least get the multimeter to ensure there's continuity before using any of those cables. As those cables can't be 'trusted'.
That is a very valuable observation - I hadnt considered
scurrying to my stock, I see that round jumpers are male pins
and square jumpers are female sockets
is that what you mean? or are there square male pins out there in the garden of delights?
of course these have crimped joints no doubt all done by machine, so any mistake in setting up and you get a lose joint hard to detect once its all crimped up
do you therefor do a continuity test on all new jumpers you get?
Out of many purchased Dupont cables/wires I have not come across a bad one .
You might be interested in this post, #787:
https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=445951.msg4707803#msg4707803
I didn't have Dupont jumpers 40 years ago because there was no internet to order them and I never saw them in any stores (you know , brick and mortar, like the old days). Personally I have never had a problem with DIPs in BBs.
And I got the lighting controller job by showing up with a working 40 channel led bidirectional sequencer circuit
on a breadboard. I've used wirewrap in school to make a 68000 microprocessor based computer but never used it
anywhere else. I solder point to point for a one off. I used NS LM307H metal can op amps and bent the leads to
match an 8-pin DIP. I bought 166 of them for 25 cents each because they were on sale. Lifetime supply for $45.
robint:
or are there square male pins out there in the garden of delights?
Hi there robint! ...... there are square sleeve with male pins out there. I'll just paste a link here:
do you therefore do a continuity test on all new jumpers you get?
Not all the time. But I keep a set of soldered jumpers in a box, separated from untested ones. And if I do happen to use new ones - I'll use the multimeter to test for continuinty first. That's to cut down on chances of a pesky open-circuited one creating time-wasting issues later down the track.
larryd:
Out of many purchased Dupont cables/wires I have not come across a bad one
Nice link you gave larry! I didn't see that one before. I have come across at least one Dupont open-circuit before. But the chance of Dupont one having issues seems to be to be far far far less than the cylindrical sleeve ones ----- the cylindrical sleeve ones that don't seem to have a way to remove (like the convenient Dupont ones with the little tabs that allow us to get the sleeve off temporarily).
Oh yes ...... true hehehe. Just got to make sure not to get those pins bent (such as accidentally) ------ as it's a pain in the neck to remove a snapped pin lodged in a breadboard hole.
Does that wire look like it has been soldered besides crimping?
Good point about clear HS sleeve
OMG this topic's done my head in
just as one door closes another one slams in your face
seems jumpers are a major potential headache and I should make my own as per above