I'm working on Arduino powered pinhole camera project. At the moment getting my head around electronics is a real voyage of discovery.
From what I have read electronic breadboards are intended for use for project prototypes, I have noticed the one I'm using the wiring isn't that secure I realize it's for prototypes and not a permanent fixture. I was wondering if the wire could be made more secure if I glue them down, I notice the local electric shop is selling liquid electrical tape would this work or is there anything better? as I would really like the board and wiring on view, the will be a working model but also an artistic statement.
A breadboard is really only for temporary use and will not work over long periods as the wires are electricaly connected by being pushed between two plates. Like if you pinched the wire between your finger and thumb. So it will become intermittent given time.
Glueing the wires sort of defeats the consept of being able to change the design if you alter the circuit.
You use the breadboard to test your circuits then move it to a more stable platform.
There are different types of breadboards available form the type that has press in wires to the type that you solder to.
The solder on type is the one you use when you are only making one or two boards but want something more rugged than the first.
If you build a prototype on a breadboard, and something comes loose, it will be stuck under the glue, and you won't be able to fix it very easily. And the glue seeps into the holes, and actually makes the connection less reliable. If you want to have some wires semi-permanently attached to a breadboard, then just use regular "scotch" tape, as it is easily removed, and does not leave sticky residue.
If you want a more permanent circuit, learn to solder.
Breadboards are for tinkering, for anything that has to last beyond your desk you have to solder it on perfboard, stripboard or protoboard. Those soldered circuits are much more robust, stable, and lasting.
Breadboards also have high levels of stray capacitance, resistance and inductance. For some projects that can be a serious problem as well.
These kind of jumpers lay flat on the breadboard and seat far more solidly than the floppy jumpers you mostly see.
They are made of stiff wire-wrap wire with the ends stripped and bent down at 90 deg. They can be a PITA to insert after the first use if not on first use. I use needle nose pliers (thin ones for fine work) to straighten bent ends and to push them in the hole.
If the holes are not exactly the length of the jumper, bend it to the side to lay flat on the board. That bend helps the ends hold harder.
These jumpers don't slip out of the holes. In fact, removing them takes effort and is more of a PITA than inserting them.
ChrisTenone:
I'm an avid photographer, having been featured on World Wide Pinhole Day several times. Would you like to share some of your project with us?
Hi Chris soon be WW PinHole Day. This not sure what camera I will use it could be one of my latest a spy pinhole camera made from a pocket watch or maybe could co large format and use one made from a Boab nut.
This FaceBook link has images of my homemade cameras just keep scrolling down Colin.
wvmarle:
And even those jumpers do not guarantee a good connection... They at least make for a rather tidy breadboard, which is a plus in itself.
Once they work, it takes a lot to change that quicker than corrosion might eventually do.
I have used them, they're not PCB solid but they work for weeks IME.
The resistors and components on the board are more likely to break contact, PCB has no such problem but not so good for prototyping.
Never tried to use it that long, a few days worked fine, though. After I pushed back in the resistors (which are on particularly thin leads). I do recall having to wiggle some of those jumpers to ensure good contact (especially recently when a 1-2 Ohm difference mattered).
They're great for prototyping, that's for sure, but you have to know their limitations (partly learned here, partly the hard way).
Well yeah, if not a PCB then at least use soldered connections once you have the circuit down. All mechanical contacts are subject to prior and later corrosion, heck my parents moved to Florida and had to get the TV serviced every year they snowbirded and left the AC off in the house.
ColRay:
Hi Chris soon be WW PinHole Day. This not sure what camera I will use it could be one of my latest a spy pinhole camera made from a pocket watch or maybe could co large format and use one made from a Boab nut.
This FaceBook link has images of my homemade cameras just keep scrolling down Colin.
When I go to your link it shows me one post, and then tells me I'm not a member of something called "face book". Face book wants me to register and join the collection in order to see the rest of your stuff beyond the watch camera. That camera is amazing though. Nice and detailed. I can make a decent f/128, but your focus seems to be twice that or more.
ps, it seems that you have already written code that moves a servo. What's next?
