im using this transistor:
and i know how to connect it, but i tried to put it the other way just incase. (can it harm the transistor if i plug it the wrong way?)
and i tried another transistor but no change.
That is a darlington transistor, you need a normal transistor.
That is a darlington transistor, you need a normal transistor.
..or 4.7Megaohm base/collector resistor, tricky to set but it may work.. You may hear the grass grow with such amplification then 
from left E - B - C front/flat view
I would expect with above 4.7Megaohm resistor and 5V power voltage:
Base/ground - 1.2 to 1.4Volt
Collector/ground - 2.3 to 3Volts
A normal npn general purpose would be better for initial experiments, of course..
That is a darlington transistor, you need a normal transistor
never heard about it...i've only heard on darlington pair. this one is regular BJT - bipolar transistor.
by normal, you mean mosfet..?
and Pito, i dont have niegther.....so..maybe i can find one of the in some old broken things i've (Keyboard,mouse,CDRom..) but i need to know which transistor to scaviange/order...
No, it is a darlington transistor.
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/pf/KS/KSP13.html
With normal, I mean a normal NPN transistor, like a BC547, 2N2222. They cost about 5 euro cents.
And do you have a 4.7Megaohm resistor?
Darlington transistors - there are two transistors wired together inside, thus they have much higher gain, a normal general purpose transistors have gain of 50-500, the darligtons have 5000-50000. So in order to set the working point for your darlington transistor properly you must use much bigger base-collector resistor. With the original 100k resistor the darlington transistor will be fully open and it will be not working properly (as an amplifier) in that wiring.
Oh so what i haveits a darlington pair, in one component...nice but thats not what i wanted to order.
So..why is it a problem to use a darlington pair/transistor in this circuit?
And unfortuntly i dont have a 47mohm resistor as well. Btw how do u know it will work with this resistor? I mean why specifically 47 megaohm?
Btw how do u know it will work with this resistor?
4.7Meg..
I know it because I know how the operating point of a normal or darligton transistor is calculated (and I did it in past). So based on the required output collector's DC voltage 2.5V, the required current through the collector's resistor, and the gain of your transistor (which based on the datasheet is 5000 at similar conditions) as well as on the fact the base is biased from collector, I can calculate the base current required to get 2.5V at collector - that will be achieved with ~4.7Megaohm.
Because the transistor's parameters may vary widely you have to elaborate the base-collector resistor such you get 2.5V on the collector. But it will be something like 4-10Megaohms.. 
The only issue I see with darlington is the gain will be too big for your application, so the circuit may oscillate, will be too sensitive and unstable, or even the noise from your mic will saturate your transistor.. :.
The basic engineering rule when designing amplifiers is not to use too much gain in a single stage..
thank you very much for the detailed answer, now I need to get the components...hope it will be soon and then I will check the circuit again
***edit oh wait I think I have PNP transistor will that be okay?
and if so how should I connect it?
oh wait I think I have PNP transistor will that be okay?
If you wire the circuit exactly like you have it BUT you swap positive and ground it will work.
If you wire the circuit exactly like you have it BUT you swap positive and ground it will work.
What about MIC? Does mic like it? jfet inside..
Yes forgot that bit swap the mike round as well.
In the old days all transistors were PNP and the negative rail was at the top of schematics.
For arduinists who do not remember that PNP times..
a) a general purpose PNP transistor, the voltages measured against ground
b) playing with R2 resistor value - it could be something from 100k-390k - you have to try to get the collector voltage somewhere around 2.5-3Volts stable (in silence, or with disconnected MIC)
c) R3 could be something between 4k7 and 10k
d) the higher the C1 value the higher amplification at lower frequencies
e) the +5V shall be decoupled with a 100uF capacitor
f) with longer cables you may connect an 1nF capacitor in parallel with the MIC
And the same as above with an NPN transistor:
so..i'm a bit confused with al the info...correct me if i'm wrong:
- i should leave the circuit as it is, take out the NPN (darlingtonpair) and put instead of it the PNP transistor (but switch between collector-emitter)
- flip the mic- that the GND will go to 5V
??
Do wire the "normal" PNP or "normal" NPN transistor according to the schematics I posted above.
Justniv:
- i should leave the circuit as it is, take out the NPN (darlingtonpair) and put instead of it the PNP transistor (but switch between collector-emitter)
No do not switch the collector and emitter if you are switching the supply
- flip the mic- that the GND will go to 5V
Just swap over the mike connections.
That is if you want to use the original circuit.
Or you can use one of pito's circuits
@GM:
..if you are switching the supply
That may confuse newbies, especially when they try to connect "something" to arduino. I would force/urge them to use gnd as the ground/GND/common (the minus on the battery, the shielding on the mic, etc., etc.) and Vcc+ always as the "plus"..
So PNP's emitter has usually higher voltage than its base (or collector) measured against the ground, NPN's emitter has usually lower voltage than its base (or collector) measured against ground (arduino's ground)..
i'm gonna use the original circuit because i dont have all the components of Pito's circuit...so just swapping mic's legs and switching between NPN to PNP. i'll try and update in 2-3hrs when i get home
OK but how are you judging if it works? You can't just feed that output into an Arduino you know.