Hi, i have a small project where i require my canon 60D to take a photo every X seconds. Im still new to electronics in itself (arduino programming im fine with) and im sure the remote triggers you can buy for 60D are a simple on/off contact. So what would i need to do (hardware wise) to get something up and running?
It will be on manual focus so no focusing neccessary, just the shutter.
Thanks
Andy
For safety, simplicity and isolation, I'd recommend a reed relay.
Some of the DIL-packaged ones can be driven directly from an Arduino's output pins (though you still need a snubber diode) - I use them to trigger the shutters of my DSLRs.
I have had success with opto-isolators
you do need to fire focus in case the camera as gone to sleep
some won't fire the shutter unless focus is also fired
I have used opto-isolators in the past and they work nicely
Thanks or replies, you guys know alot more than me, but ill admit im surprised such a circuit and hack (instructables) to a purchased remote shutter release is needed when its just a simple switch in them?
Seeing as i will be with the camera at the time i switch the arduino on and it will only take about 30 pictures over a perioed of 1 minute theres no chance of it going in stand by so focus really isnt needed.
Just shutter release.
Thanks
Andy
mmcp42:
...
some won't fire the shutter unless focus is also fired
Ahh didnt read that bit, in which case i would need it, will have to check.
Cheers
Andy
gibbon:
im surprised such a circuit and hack (instructables) to a purchased remote shutter release is needed when its just a simple switch in them?
Someone just hasn't done it and wrote about it yet.
As with most hacks, people generally start with the thing they want to hack.
the "hack" is only so you can control it with a 'duino
the shutter remote works perfectly well until it's hacked!
By the way, I would like the same thing for my dslr... 
And your DSLR is?
In general, if you look for 'removable shutter release cable' on ebay or your favorite site, you should find cables made for most DSLRs that take wired shutter releases. These cables are made for the Cactus V5 and Pixel timer shutter releases that use a 2.5mm 3 connection audio cable on one end, and the camera specific cable on the other end. It looks like these cables have come down in price, the last time I ordered some they were $10: removable shutter connecting cable for sale | eBay
You need to connect 2 of the connections together to get the camera to focus, and 2 others to get it to fire (the camera sends some current down the wire and if the circuit is completed it does the action). On some cameras, you need to connect all 3 wires (ground, focus, fire) together, on some you do not. Usually you would use an opto-coupler (or reed switch, etc.) to electrically isolate your camera from the Arduino.
Some older DLSRs do not have have a wired shutter release, but do take an infrared shutter release. You can build an IR led on your Arduino to fire the camera, using the software available from: http://sebastian.setz.name/arduino/my-libraries/multi-camera-ir-control/.
A few DSLRs and many point & shoots have no way to fire the camera, other than pressing the shutter button. In the Olympus mirrorless realm, the E-PL1 does not have a method of firing the shutter without pushing the button. If you do not mind opening up the camera (and voiding the warranty if it is still in effect), you can mod the shutter button so you can control it via Arduino: http://www.instructables.com/id/Time-Lapse-Photography/step3/Press-my-buttons/
Finally you can use the Arduino to activate a servo to press the shutter button: Ryosuke's Projects: Remote Shutter Release
gibbon:
Thanks or replies, you guys know alot more than me, but ill admit im surprised such a circuit and hack (instructables) to a purchased remote shutter release is needed when its just a simple switch in them?
Yes, but on many cameras you need a camera specific cable. For example, on my Olympus E-5, I need a cable that has 3 pins and screws into the port on the side. On my Olympus E-PM2, I need a cable that has 12 pins, of which 3 are used for the shutter release, and it plugs into the slot used by the USB, video out, shutter release cables (and power on some other Olympus cameras). If your camera uses a standard connector, you don't need to buy a special cable. It looks like your 60D uses a standard 2.5mm audio cable, so you are lucky. Here is a site that gives the pinout for a variety of cameras special cables: www.doc-diy.net :: camera remote release pinout list
For many Canon DSLR's you can hook the 2.5mm cable directly to the Arduino pins. Resistor is optional.
Canon cameras (40D I have for sure and I believe all the rest) will trigger the shutter even without focus contact.
Nikons refuse to do it that way. They require focus as well.
sbright33, why would you even risk it when a proper protection costs around 1$ (reed or opto) and is not complicated at all to implement?
If you look at the circuit inside the specific camera you want to implement, you may find that any significant current flow is impossible. Of course it depends on the camera model. Mine is safe. Many others too.
Disassembling the camera just to see if you can get away without using a simple component?
Using a reed relay is a universal method to assure the safety of this type of control, without having to worry if the specific camera model can do without it.
Perhaps if you are confident enough in your electronics knowledge, you personally will go down the direct route, but I wouldn't risk my $500 camera or even my $20 Arduino if all it takes is $2 of additional components. To me the cost and benefit analysis is clear in this case.
1000's have tried it without any damage. No, you don't have to disassemble your camera. Look at the schematic or test it with a multimeter. Let's talk cost benefit analysis. 10 seconds of my time for $2. Multiply that out. Even risking damage to 1 PIN of a Uno is only about $1 to me. Think about it logically. How could you possibly damage your camera with the simple circuit I am proposing? If you're paranoid use a resistor in series. 2 cents might work into your cost benefit analysis.
opto rather than reed relay
they take too long