Here is a link btw of how that sounds.
Distorted and way slower than usual. I measured 4ohm on the speaker and messuref continuity to make sure I didn't have any short circuits between connection. and actually resoldered most of them just to be sure.
Not sure how to troubleshoot next. Could try to buy a new sd-card I suppose.
Move them back down?
When they were in the mp3 folder, the blue light never even lit up. That's when I moved them to root and that's the location they have ever played at all
Starting to get a little worried there might be something wrong with my DFPlayer. Half of the time I start it, it won't light up. And sometimes even when it does - it does not react to most of the IO buttons. But sometimes is does react to both, I can skip song and lower volume etc. But the sounds is distorted and slow motion still.
Last ideas for me...
I/O Mode is straight forward, and it seems you have checked every possible issue
Thanks for helping out, really appreciate it!
I've inspected them and measured continuity with my multimeter, so to confirm there are no jumps in between them at least. But I guess that won't tell me if the solders have gaps. Are you thinking gaps could be stop-starting the file multiple times per second kind of scenario? I'm a beginner welder, this is what it looks like:
Took the audio from the youtube recording and compared it to the same portion of the song original and it's not quite half the speed, it's more about 80% of the original speed.
Not really sure there about the work mode, I don't understand how to use that. I have no arduino board if that's required. I have the Arduino IDE however.
On a closer inspection I did have short between pin 10 and 11 here. I think you can even see the residue here on this picture:
Once I fixed that, all buttons work again more reliable and blue light is lit. However, songs are still distorted and run slow.
Excellent. Check the underside for a bridge elsewhere.
I think your solder iron is a bit too hot due to the cloudy appearance of the joints. I would also use a LOT more flux (might look dirty now, but cleans well) to let the solder attract to the metallic surfaces, and not create solder bridges.
Thanks for the tips on the flux, and heat! Really usefull, I'll try to dial that in.
I've been fidgeting now between two different SD cards, one newer 32GB and the older 2GB I had in it from start. Re-formated both using FAT32 and managed to get things to play properly by forcefully ejecting and re-insering the card while it was playing. Then things snapped back to normal. At first I thought it was about the new card, but it seems I can make both cards play fine just by ejecting and reinserting multiple times back and forth as if to rub the connections or something. Have not yet come to the point where it will work indefinately though but will snap back to slomo when restarted. If I then eject/insert 10 times fast, it plays normally. Even back and forth one time seems to be enough on further tests.
corrosion? should I fill the card slot with electronic cleaner or similar?
POWER OFF... then isopropyl alcohol and a stiff bristle brush in the card slot. Also, examine how the SD card edge is contacting the SD slot. Dielectric paste (about $3 per tiny tube) - in moderation - might help a struggling connection.
Hi again,
Gave up on this DFPlayer and ordered a brand new from amazon. Soldering it in place now, and starting one by one to confirm functionality. I'm somwhat perplexed though, I have continuity between SPK_1 and GND, also between SPK_2 and GND. (6-7, and 7-8), is that expected?
It won't fire up with 5V + speaker as the only connections so far namely, so wanted to double check. I can re-solder and see but those connection look really neat.
If the iron is still hot, try solder a short jumper across the two GNDs of the player, on the reverse side of the board. Just because can.
yeah, not sure what that would have to do with anything, but there is already continuity between the GND pings, seems like through the chassis of the SD card slot. I can measure that in the unsoldered chip.
No, definitely not!
Varies between brands. I tested five. My DMM reported 14K ohms on three and 39K on the other two.
That's what I figured, I've sent it back and ordered a new one now. We'll see how that one performs.
I'd have made that at least two!
Better show us your latest schematic before risking repetition of whatever damage you may have done to the first.
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