Have you considered something like this: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807677918337.html
My code keeps track of what is on and what is off. You can read the pin that drives the relay, the result will be as accurate as the additional contact with a lot less wiring and much safer. Your solution although it will work does not give the real status. When I need to know the status for sure I plug in a small wall wart and read its output which has a small LED load.
This is not what Iām trying to do and yes my method sense the real lights status.
@jim-p , I really appreciate your support but I think you are making "wild guess" too at this point bringing the discussion out of tipic. The only reason it does exist a minimum voltage/current specification is because of oxyde film forming on contacts.
Those relays are not toys they are fully certified electrical components made from a well known brand, it's not stuff from Aliexpress with questionable origin. Do you think it would be legal to omit/hide the presence of any kind of filters in their datasheet? I answer for you, NO.
Now please let's get back on track.
I'm making some changes to my circuit adding protection on each multiplexer pin with a series of resistor and schottcky clamping diodes.
I'll let you know if there are some updateds
Not explicity.
In any case you are still violating the specifications, so how do you expect them to work properly. You are also guessing as to what is the actual cause of your problem.
As I said if you don't do things the right way you will never find out what the problem really is.
If you want to apply bandaids to what you thing is the problem, it' up to you.
just thinking out loud
An alternative idea . Use an LDR, phototransistor, color sensor or current sensor to see the light is actually switched on. Yes it is more expensive but the feedback loop is 100%.
The fact the relay switched does not necessarily mean the light goes on (e.g. it is broke, not fit correctly, ). You only test if the relay is working / switched.
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