I have made a project using an Adafruit motor shield. I'm about to create a 3D printed box to protect it all. My external power to the shield is a bit "messy" - I'm looking for ideas on how to attach power to the shield. The plug I have (photographed) seems popular and came with my stepper motors, but I don't see any fixing points to attach it to a box. A quick search on amazon and they all look similar to me.
For example, I like how the 5V and USB power go into the Uno itself. Are there any power plugs that screw securely into the shield terminals? What do people use so that the plug is nice and secure when then they push the power into it?
Any project pics, or links to power terminals, or tips on how people use the one I have appreciated!
And then from the jack's pin, inside the box, solder wires (of the right size - Dupont cables are not so great to carry lots of amps) and go to the screw terminal block
look around you at any portable electronic that needs power - they have some sort of power entry plug. A Jack is a common interface, or USB / USB C nowadays depending on the power needs
you could also have your power supply adaptor wire going straight into the box... so the power brick is attached to the project box... or embed the power supply into the project box and offer a 110V/230V male plug outside to be plugged into the wall
Yes - I was considering that, but the connector I have is quite bulky and not a great shape for making a natural clip with. Just curious to see how people do theirs - just getting ideas really. The panel mount barrel jack looks like a good option, so I think I'll go probably go with that.
usually you don't use those stacked thingy to make a "final" boxed project. They are for easy tinkering with the Dupont plug and play pins.
You go for more integrated versions (like an Arduino Nano or Pro Mini) that you place on a perf board (if you don't build your own PCB) and power motor driver that are more suitable for integration like the power motor drivers from pololu
OK - not really seen this before. The shield you link to is still designed to 'stack' - I've found the stacked connections to be quite nice and the board I'm using still has spare pins for soldering the remaining components on. Also is a nice shape and size for a project box at the end (I'll custom print so it's all snug at the end)
There's some nice gadgets at Pololu - I've not been to that shop before so thanks for sharing that link.
I'd like to see one of your projects - I considered using my Nano for this project, but one of the appeals of using the Uno was that I could whack the shield on top and not have to worry about a spaghetti of wires between the shield (or whatever board I choose) and the Nano.
If you would like to share a pic, I'd love to see one of your projects with a Nano and a perf board to see how you lay it all out.
Well.... that pic does look monstrous ! Mine is bit tidier I hope!
I was thinking of having a batch of these made. They fit the MEGA terminal shield. Anyone interested in splitting the (as yet unknown) PCB fab costs -- OR -- does anyone know a REALLY CHEAP place to get these made. I can fab 'em on a proto card but this is cooler looking - Only needs single side with six wire jumpers topside. Cap is 470uF @ 35V (10mm can, .2 leg spacing). LED and R1 are your choice. RGB color change LED & ~150 ohms is cute. LED pad is T1-3/4.
the link was meant to be a general link to the Pololu site with all the choice, may be I did not paste exactly the right one. I think you saw all the options they have. I like their hardware.
I'm on the go and don't have really any picture of project boxes with me.
I tend to use commercially available project boxes / enclosure rather than 3D print an enclosure except a few times when I need a specific shape (and usually it's more with kids / student projects when I help out).
I found that commercial boxes are more sturdy / durable and offer a good value for the price. You find them in all sorts of shapes and form, including IP67 etc. (an example here)
There are also many boxes which come with a specifically tailored perf board so you can install your project directly in the box on the perf board
when the project does not need much internal component and is small I've successfully used electrical junction box that are IP68 by removing the electrical junction to make room for the electronics